TexasAxMan

When I bought my car it came with a "professionally built" 302 engine. The guy can no longer locate the guy who had the engine built[:@]. Since I can't leave well enough alone and I have to know what is in my engine, I thought I'd do a little investigation work.

Here's what I know:

Block: C8OE 6015A 8J26
Heads: Passenger 289 66 6E26
Driver 289 66 6E27
Front Cover: C5OE 6059-A1
Intake: Ford Motorsport M-9424-A321

Now the questions:

1) I have taken off the front of the engine thinking that the cam would have some identifying marks on the snout, it doesn't. How can I figure out what cam it is?

2) Is there a way to identify what pistons and overbore were installed without removing the heads? (markings on the bottom that I have yet to be able to see?)

3) For the life of me, I can't seem to identify screw in from pressed in rocker studs, any help her would be appreciated. I'm sure screw in were not stock on these heads, but could have been added, I just don't know.

I am planning on putting on an Autolite 4100 carb, stock distributor with a Pertronix, high volume oil pump, etc.

I'm not looking for a 550 HP beast, but more like a 325-340 HP street car. It will not be a daily driver, but I'd like to be able to drive it on the streeta couple of times a week, including to work on some days. Perhaps an occasional auto-cross or something, but really tame compared to some.

Any help appreciated. Ask any question you like and I will try to be responsive. Thanks in advance!

Aussie66Fastback

short answer - no.
stock 289 heads so I would assume stock (or close to it) cam.
No one would put serious rods or pistons on a near stock engine rebuild.
is it currently 2 or 4 bbl carb?

my assumption would be its all pretty close tostock and i would question just how much machine work (balancing etc)went into the rebuild (apart from boring it out a bit).

If you want >300hp then rather than muck around withthat engine(which WILL lead to throwing good money after bad), I suggest you start saving for a replacement. leave that one runnign in the car in the mean time. Well thats what I am planning to do anyway

TexasAxMan

Short answer to WHAT is no? It is neither 2 or 4 barrel at this time, but will be 4 barrel when I install it in the car. It has BRAND NEW parts in it, never been in a car. Why on earth would I replace it???????????????????

cprstreetmachines

You have to at least drop the pan to measure the bottom of the cylinder walls to find the bore.
A srew in stud will have a hex and the base of the stud, right where it goes into the head. A press in stud, will be round all the way down, and all the way into the head. And you will have to replace more than the intake and carb for taht kinda HP level.

colostang

I believe what he is saying about replacing the motor is in regards to your goal of 325-340 hp. In order to get a stock 302 to that level alot of work will have to be done, including heads, pistons, camshaft etc.. He is just saying that it may be cheaper to buy a new engine that is already that strong. I don't really know your situation, but in many cases it would be cheaper to just buy a new motor with a warranty.

Aussie66Fastback

sorry short answer to (2) the pistons etc...you'd have to pull the bottom end off and probably pull a piston out to be sure but you can at least see if the rods are stock. You could measure the bore with the sump off.

I didnt realise it was brand new never been in the car. you said you wanted 325 to 340hp which is why i said start saving

To get your goal, you are going to have to change cam and heads and that then will test out therotating assembly which I am assuming is stock (read: heavy)pistons and rods that may or may not have been balanced. YOu can find out by pulling the whole lot out. So basically you are half rebuilding again what has just been done and, IMO, you will be disappointed with the longevity if its all stock or you'll end replacing rods and pistons to get a better result. Either way you end up with a bitser engine.

To me, if your going to change out bits like that you might as well run that one "as is" while you save or sell it and build what you really want. Like I said, that s what I am planning to do. I want the same sort of thingfor my car...not going to be trhashed all the time, but want to take itto open track days and tear it a new one from time to time. 340hp in a 66 is plenty fun without costing too much to build orrun.

A good engine builder wouldnt risk reputation trying to create something out of what you currently have. they would design and include appropriate parts and machine work to get you reliably where you want to be in the first place.

I'm certainly not trying to rain on your parade. I've made the mistake twice trying to improve one "new" engine like yours and another that was already "built" with hot new parts (supposedly 450hp). In both cases the engines disintegrated. One spun bearings. The other stuck a leg out through the side of the block. A collection of BRAND NEW parts does not a good engine make.

TexasAxMan

OK, I guess I have not laid out the full picture, based on the responses.

I don't really care what the HP number is, say 110 HP if that's easier. I'm simply asking if there is a way to determine what cam is in the engine. And what pistons. All I really want to find out is if this is a streetable engine. I used to know the guy that supposedly built the engine, and his work from all indications is top notch. But, he builds 500-700 HP engines as well as street engines, which I have is the question.

This ain't my first rodeo, but yes, you can get 350 Hp out of stock heads. As a matter of fact, I never said they were stock.

Aussie66Fastback

hehehe Colo just said what i meant in a 10th of the time[8D]

dodgestang

Do you have single, double or triple springs in the heads?

Single or double its a street motor and don't get confused thinking a damper is an extra spring

Hydro lifters or solids?
Adjustable valve train (and roller rockers) or simply pedastol rockers?
Single Roller, double roller timing chain or gear drive?
What type of cog is on the dizzy?

Lotsa clues about if a motor is a real performer or not other than simple cam

Tearing apart an unfired motor that was just rebuilt isn't all that hard and doesn't cost you more than a couple of gaskets.

With the right tools you can measure the lift and duration of the cam by measuring the valve movement at the rockers....but to me...it would be easier to just take it apart and answer the piston question at the same time. I assume you just want to know if you have flat tops etc....are you planning on CC the chambers and measuring the reliefs in the pistons to calculate your compression?

TexasAxMan

It is a hydraulic cam, single springs. Pedastal (sp?) mount rockers. But, the heads have significant port work done by outward appearances. Like I said, I'm not searching for some HP figure.

All I am really asking is, is there a way to determine what cam is in it now, so I can change it if it does not meet the intended purpose. I can figure out the piston issue on my own, and thanks to CPRStreetMachines for the response.

SO, in lieu of revising my original question, let me rephrase. Is there a way to determine what cam your engine has in it?