Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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Anybody have a pic of a slave cylinder bracket for a "toploader" that they fabricated? I kind of know what I'm going to do but other ideas are welcomed. Please don't post links to T5 brakets. There's enough of those on the net to choke a horse. The toploader is a push slave, not a pull. So the T5 is a different beast. I have a Lakewood scattershield and will probably have to trim the outside edge so the slave cylinder has a clear shot to the fork. That's me bangin gears.
Your going with a Hydraulic Clutch Conversion? Something my father asked me about last month. I still haven't decided one way or the other yet. I guess the wife would like it since it eases the foot pressure on the clutch pedal. 4-speed toploader here as well.
btw.. Thanks Was talking to her today about painting the toploader silver. I like it in your photo. I'll have to show her tomorrow.
__________________ GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
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Hydraulic is the only way to go. I had the hydraulic throwout bearings but they wouldn't fit over my bearing retainer. I am going with the slave now. Some people think it's better since there is no chance of getting hydraulic fluid on your clutch disk. With the hydraulic throwout bearing that was always a concern. The paint I used on the trans serves two purposes. It is bright zinc-it paint. Not only will it help prevent rust, but it looks good. You can find it at any of your larger hardware stores. Make sure it is the "bright", otherwise if you use the regular zinc-it, it looks like dull grey primer.
Adrenolin, to start from the begining, I purchased the 3/4" CNC master cylinder, CNC slave cylinder, and the Longacre braided line with fittings. I purchased all of these from http://cnc.carshopinc.com/product_in.../13667/711-3/4. After I had these parts in hand, I was able to start my project. Several months previous, I found a 6 cyl 68 mustang and purchased the 3 speed trans, pedal assy, and all the other related items ( I see them on e-bay all the time). I took the clutch pedal assy home and tore it apart. I replaced the bushings after bead blasting and painting all the parts. I was then able to start with nice clean parts. I located the "knock out" plug in the firewall for the clutch rod. All of our mustangs have them. Just take a hammer and a screw driver and knock the disk out. This is where you will mount the CNC master cylinder. Mock the master cylinder in the hole and mark your holes. I did not take detailed pics when I was going through this process but you can see from the pics how it should be done. Take the 3/4" master cylinder and attach a 5/15" hyme joint (Napa auto parts carries all different types and sizes). Make sure you use a nut also to lock the hyme joint on. I pulled my steering column to make it much easier. And trust me, you'll thank me for mentioning that. I was able to demo and install the clutch pedal assy in less than 30 minutes. After you have done this, you are about 1/3 done. Drill your two holes for the CNC master cylinder and bolt it in. Before you do bolt it in, you must make a plate that is placed on the inside of the firewall as seen in the pic. If you do not do this, your CNC master cylinder will come though your firewall in a matter of time. It is there to strengthen the firewall. After it is bolted in, hold the rod of the CNC master cylinder with the hyme joint up to the clutch pedal arm and mark it for drilling. Drill your hole and mount your hyme joint. You are now done until you install the transmission with your slave cylinder attached.
In my pics you can see I used heavy angle iron. There is a reason for that. There is a tremendous amount of pressure when you accuate the hydraulics of a slave cylinder. Once you have the slave cylinder attached and the rod is up against the fork, take out any slack and give it a little extra so there is no play or movement of the fork. I found a donor ford ranger to rob my remote slave cylinder reservoir from. Fill the reservoir and gravity bleed the slave. Don't start pumping or you will aereate the fluid and you will have a heck of a time bleeding it. It will simply run out of the bleeder. Make sure you put enough fluid in the reservoir so you don't run it out. That's all I did. I am completely satisfied and very happy with my results. If you have any other questions let me know. I may have overlooked something but with what I have told you and the pics I have posted it should be fairly simple. Good luck.
I just recently put a T5 in my 69 and would have preferred to do a hydraulic set up. But I just didnt think I would be able to with the brake booster. In your setup would you have enough room for booster
1969 coupe- 302
Edelbrock 650 cfm, performer RPM intake, performer RPM heads, FPA long tube headers, 2.5 in. X-pipe, 3.73:1 Detroit Locker, T5z, Force 10 discs all around
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