Gun Jam

Hey
I have a 66 mustang with engine block number 0c5ae-6015e

Im trying to get all the parts I need to swap my c4 to a t5

I have right now:
1) Mustang steve clutch pedal and cable, pedal shaft bearing kit, (the minimum required parts for the swap no booster crap or the like)
2) flywheel that accepts the 10.5" king cobra clutch
3)king cobra clutch (not pictured)
4) z spec t5 with 5.0 bell housing
5)Pilot bearing (not pictured)





I need

1) Cross member (any suggestions on manufacture of a good one for a good price?)
2) shift fork( might be improper name...thing that the clutch cable fits to) again any suggestions on picking up one?
3) Block plate planning to get this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T5-BE...em350040659272
4) Slip yoke I have seen some adversed that say shortening of the drive usually isnt necessary when you use this slip yoke can someone direct me to the correct slipyoke?

Is there anything else that im missing?

Any problems with that bellhousing vs my engine vs the block plate????

Thanks again

-Gun

superdavid

how bout those crazy bolts needed to attatch the flywheel? I know mine required some special ones I had to get at the Ford house.

superdavid

oh yeah and a shift boot.

Gun Jam

yeah I know where to get bolts those are an in house deal for sure

Daze

Thats a good blocking plate. that is the one I bought. You will need to get clutch pins/dowel pins for the flywheel. I ordered mine of eBay. The bolts are basic metric bolts in the metric equalivent of grade 8 (10.something) shortening the slip yoke and shortening the drive line are two different thing and people get this confused all the time. The slip you have will probably work but will be to long and block the vent/drain hole in the shifter cavity. This is easily fixable by cutting of about 1.5" of the yoke you have. When I did mine I simply cut of the section that didn't have splines. The drive line may or may not need to be shortened some cars do and some dont. If it needs to be shortened you need to have the length adjusted so that there is at least .75" and no more than 1.5" from the shoulder of the yoke to the end of the trans (not to be confused with the end of the seal boot some steals stick out about .75" off the end of the trans) The clutch fork which is the correct name can also be gotten off of ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...em140218008060
As far as the crosmember the are all expensive and about the same and some modifying of the mouniting holes will probable be needed.

Daze

I forgot you will also need a throw out bearing

Scott H.

.....

Gun Jam

Thanks guys

im suprised the clutch doesnt come with the pins

ill try in get these parts here

-Gun

Daze

I forgot something else, you will also need a new starter. this is a good time to upgrade to a mini starter for a good price. in 93 the oem starter was a mini starter and can be had for about $100.00

Gun Jam

oh thats good to know considering mine is starting to grind every now and then