tyler72

Well, I bought the oil for the break in procedure on my 347. Everybody has different opinions about how to do it/which type of oil to use. Nobody seems to believe the same things, so I made a decision for myself. I found out that cam failure is most likely linked to the lack ZDDP in oil, so I went on a search, and found out that Vavoline VR1 Racing oil specifically states that it has extra ZDDP in it and is reccomended for off road use. So... this tells me that it has the additives needed. The only issue is that it is straight 30 weight (I wanted 10W-30), but I think that it will be just fine. The only thing the parts store had was this, 20W-50 or straight 50 weight, so I figured this was the best option. I also purchased a bottle of comp cams break in lube to add to the oil. I am going to continue running this in the oil at every oil change because it contains even more additives that will only help prolong the life of the engine. I do plan on doing the recommended break in procedure by Starting it up and immediately revving it to 2500 RPM and holding it there for 30 minutes. I will then change the oil and replace it with the same thing, and of course, a new filter. Hopefully, this time the cam will stay together!

67mustang302

If you use the VR1 then you shouldn't need any other additives(though the break in lube at break in couldn't hurt). The VR1 and the Valvoline Racing synthetic and Mobil 1 15-50 all have 1,200ppm Zn/P minimum.

davesanborn

Where did you get your 347? If it was built by someone else, I assume it came with a warranty? Their break-in procedures are the only ones you should be listening to.... or else you'll void your warranty.

Dave

wrenchturner75

do not use synthetic oil for an engine break in! 10w30 will be fine, i dont use a thermostate when breaking in either eliminates any chances of hot spots and overheating. get it fired and set the idle speed to 2500 while watching the guages for any problems, helps to have a friend here too. cam lobes are splash oiled hence the need for raised idle speed break ins. after 2or 3 heat cycles ill then throw in a thermostate. the rings should be seated by then. using sythetic oil for a breakin will not allow proper ring break in. just remember to prelube before the initial firing.

straw1628

The guy building my engine, bigger valves, hardened seats, cam, lifters roller rockers etc, said I can run regular 10w-30 when I mentioned what I had read on here about the racing oil and zinc, etc. Does everone here feel we should run the racing oil or will Valvoline 10w-30 be OK. Thanks

nebulae87

from a ford engine book i have on small block fords, it says the best way to go is 10w30 oil NOT SYNTHETIC. It says to do that for the first 500-1000 miles and then to use synthetic for the rest of your engines life lol. I think they know what they're talking about lol

tyler72

Well... The VR1 not is not synthetic, I never said that it was. But all are correct on this topic. NEVER use synthetic to break in a new engine because it doesn't allow rings to seat well. I did want to use 10w-30, but since they didn't have any at the parts store, I decided to just run straight 30 in it.

Davesanborn, I didn't really get my 347 from anywhere. I built it myself, so the only warranty I need to really worry about is that of the cam, which is why I am following Comps break in procedure (also followed their procedure for setting valve adjustment). However, they recommend using Rotella as a break in oil because it has extra additives, but the sad truth is that it doesn't anymore. The installation instructions for the cams are older, and they were written before this change took place I assume. The reason Rotella doesn't have ZDDP anymore is because Deisels are getting catalyc converters now too, and since ZDDP stops them up, it had to go bye-bye as well. Like I said though, the VR1 clearly states that it contains extra ZDDP, which is what we need to have more of, so it will be my choice for oil from now on, unless I change it over to the Mobile 1 15w-50 racing oil (which is a good possibility). No matter what though, I don't think that constantly running a break in additive will hurt, but I may stop putting it in after the first 2 oil changes, or after the 1st 1000 miles or so. If I switch to the Mobile, then I doubt I will add the break in lube anymore.

Adrenolin

Hey,
Your break in period should be much more than your first 2 oil changes or 1000 miles. Rather you should wait about 3000 to 5000 miles before switching over to synthetics. I received a call from an AMSOIL rep last month on the topic of synthetics after I sent them and email and we had a long talk for about an hour. Just last weekend at the Swap Show in Cowtown, NJ I ran into an AMSOIL vendor and for the fun of it asked him about the topic. Both of them stressed that you should drive at the very least 3000 miles on something like the Rotella and best to go 5000 miles. I was quite impressed that they both agreed as I find most sales people know the product but not always the application and issues around its use.

Might want to check as the Shell Rotella here in eastern Canada has not had the ZDDP removed yet.. or at least the stuff in the stores yesterday hadn't. Could be different in the US though. I'm gonna buy a few gallons of it this week to put aside for when we rebuild our engine just in case. I'll tell dad I'll break his hands if he touches it for his regular changes!

BTW.. both the AMSOIL support guy and the sales guy recommended their AMSOIL AMO 10w-40 100% Synthetic product for our older engines after the break in and NO additives are needed with it they said.

65Coupester

From all I have read Rotella does have ZDDP, just a reduced levels from the 60's. It has about 1200 PPM which is adequate.
Here is a short discussion, about why that is adequate. There are about a million others similar sites, like Bob the oil guy.
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthre...853&page=1
I broke in on Rotella T, now problems.

Also check out zddplus addidtive at kirbanperformance.com

mjr46

if you have a flat tappet cam...GM sells EOS, and or lifter pre lube it reccommends..forgot the part numbers, I talked extensively with amsoil rep and BG rep this past week on all of this as I own a 66 with a flat tappet motor with less than 3 k on rebuild.....BG sells a product called MOA......I highly reccommend it as he does to for such purposes as it contains all the proper additive packages and moly for such break in purposes, amsoil of course reccommended the SSO series oil and or ASL line which have superior additive packages for such break in purposes