Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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Hi, I've never posted here but I frequent the 05+ section. Anyways I have a 69 Mustang I bought when I was 14. I've kept it because I love it. Well, now I'm 24 and married and figure now is the time to restore it before we start a family. I know I will not have the time and money to do it for a very long time once a family is started. Anyways I need some guidence. I have rebuilt the orginal 302 and it is ready to go in when the current 351 goes out. I also have tranny ready to go when the current one goes out. I have the brakes and suspension picked out that will go on the car. Currently I started sanding and filling the small dents. Sanding sucks. I have a DA but not enough air volume to run it very long. I don't have the funds to buy the compressor I want.
What is the best way to sand without the DA?
Am I starting this project right? Should I continue on with the body work or should I get my brakes and suspension installed? I don't want to install the drivetrain because I will have to pull it when replace the floorboards (rust also sucks) and paint the engine compartment.
I've heard that you can make a rotisserie out of two engine stands. This would be awsome and help. Anyone got directions on how to build one?
I guess I just need help in knowing where to start. I'll probably have a lot more questions here in the future but I work slow so it may be awhile before I get to new milestones that I need help with. Thanks
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A lot of people agree that the bodywork and paint should be first, but I did mine backwards hahaha. It all depends on what is best for you, do you want to drive it while you get ready for paint? There's a lot of questions that need to be asked.
and fyi you do not need to pull the drivetrain to replace the floorboards. You can also work on the engine bay and clean that up and put in your engine before hand if you want, it all depends on what you want to do.
and I have to ask, why are you going from a 351 to a 302? going for a concours restoration?
I just restored my mach 1 (at age 17) and have a ton of pics. If you ever need help or pictures of something, let me know!
I would do as 4reboy stated.. Get the engine bay cleaned up when you swap out the motor and then do your suspension, brakes, drivetrain and be able to drive it while you do body work.. Thats also what Im doin..
69 Grande' 351W/AOD Performer Intake/Cam, 670 Holley Avenger, Hooker Headers, 3.70 9"TracLoc
67 Fastback A Code: 64k Miles, all original project for the wife.
The 351 needs to be rebuilt and the 302 is already build that is why I'm swapping back. I also have some rust to fix in the firewall. Mainly around in clutch rod. I wanna go big on this car. Long term I expect anywhere between 15 to 20 grand if I have to hire someone to do all the work but it is worth it because the car means a lot to me. However, I'd like to save as much as possible that is why I started to sand on it. I'm taking it all the way down to the metal. The car has been painted once over the factory paint so the sanding sucks. I will be looking into a sanding board. I want to do the full floor pan that is why I was thinking of removing the drivetrain. The trans tunnel it fubar from a previous hurst shifter install with reverse lock out. I can do without driving the car for awhile becuase I know the reward of having it done will be worth it. I guess I was worried about installing the brakes and suspension in case I would have to remove it again when I get to painting and undercoating that part of the car.
I'll try to get some pics so you can see what I'm working with.
Oh, and I live in Southeast Missouri.
get some air craft remover to strip the paint off, will be a nice time saver for you. They have it at paint shops or auto stores. Just be sure you clean it all off nice because if there is any left when u primer/paint then it will mess it up
Whether you keep using the DA sander or the board sander, invest $50-70 and buy a "reserve air tank" you can hook to your compressor (even if it's only a 5-10 gallon tank). You run a short hose from the output of your compressor to the tank and then plug your "working" hose into the "reserve" tank (you might have to buy a couple of fittings and a regulator but they're cheap). When you first start up your compressor it will run a lot longer as it fills up the "reserve" tank and its own tank but it will cycle much less and give you a much longer working time. The bigger the "reserve" tank size...the longer you can work before your compressor has to kick back on and the less it has to "fight" the draw of your air tool. I have a 150 PSI compressor with a 30 gal. tank and I have a second 30 gal. tank hooked to it. It basically doubles my work time and cuts the cylcling of my compressor almost in half.
As for body first vs. suspension/engine/tranny...I think that is a matter of personal preference. I guess I would say work the most on whatever you think will take the longest. That way even if you switch back and forth you should end up finishing it all about the same time. I have owned my '68 since I was 18 (bought it in 1988) and I understand what you mean. I am taking mine "to the metal" as well. And I can tell you that when it's done no one will be able to offer me enough money to equal what it's worth to me.
1968 Mustang Coupe, 302 CID, Top Loader 4 Speed, 9 in. POSI
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