kaiser18

I am looking into putting in a new pertronix flame thrower 2 coil, only problem is my current layout uses the older method of a ballast resistor and resistor wire leading to my ignition switch. From what I have been told, in order to use this higher voltage coil I need to eliminate the ballast resistor and replace the the wire that leads to my ignition swith with a non resistor wire.

Does this sound correct? if so does anyone know how far back this resistor wire goes that I need to replace?

Also if it helps I will also note that I am using a pertronix distributor(non points).

Starfury

There is no separate ballast resistor. The resistor wire is the pink wire coming out of the back of the ignition switch, and I believe it runs all the way to the engine wiring harness connector. All you have to do is bypass that wire and run a separate wire out to the coil.

baxsom

how do you do that.
do i just hook up a wire that is 12v switched to the coil instead of the oem wire.

i tapped into the radio power for the choke. same principle?

Starfury

The correct way to do it is to actually remove the pink wire from the back of the switch, then install a replacement wire with the same 90* spade connector and run it to the coil. That said, I just spliced into the pink wire about 1" away from the switch. At that point the resistance is negligible, so it works just fine.

Keep in mind, you should only do this if you've done an electronic ignition upgrade. Running full 12V through points will burn them up really quick.

baxsom

but this works ok through the pertronix ignition right?

i was thinking using the 12v from the radio power to throw a relay and wire the choke and coil off the battery through said relay.

Starfury

Yes, the Pertronix ignition is an electronic ignition conversion.

I think you're overthinking the wiring problem. Cut the pink wire close to the switch, crimp on a butt connector, and run some 14ga up to the coil. There's no reason to run the coil through a relay, or to use any other source for the coil than the existing terminal on the switch.

As far as the choke, I'd look at the heater blower motor power lead. It's always hot when the key is on and it will provide a full 12V.