Front End/firewall/Cowl replacement questions
#11
RE: Front End/firewall/Cowl replacement questions
Chris... I welded the angle iron first before anything. If your car was together, (as mine was), when you start cutting up the sides of the firewall, the car will sag, therefore you need to support the car before you even remove any metal...
#12
RE: Front End/firewall/Cowl replacement questions
How did you weld them in before?? It looks like the front support is where the frame welds to the firewall and the rear support is located where the floor support welds to the floor. Am i wrong??
#13
RE: Front End/firewall/Cowl replacement questions
You'rer right on the front angleiron...I had to remove it in order to fit the firewall. I did that after I removed both cowl sides. If you look at the rear angleiron, it is welded to the "butt" of the frame rails, which remained until I put the whole floor in. On that rear angle, you can see where I "c" clamped another piece of angle to hold the car up when I removed the front angle and floor jack...
#14
RE: Front End/firewall/Cowl replacement questions
i took the entire front clip off my car and put it all back without any problems, just take a ton of measurments
i replaced both front frame rails (shock towers and all) put in a new radiator support, an new transmission crossmember and both frame rail extensions
it was a big job, but its not impossible
i replaced both front frame rails (shock towers and all) put in a new radiator support, an new transmission crossmember and both frame rail extensions
it was a big job, but its not impossible
#15
RE: Front End/firewall/Cowl replacement questions
I am doing some what the same thing to my 66 I repaired the front frame rails one at a time first and left the floor supports in place to help put the frame rails back where they belong. Then I replaced the floor supports and added subframe connector to make the car a full frame front to rear. Now that I have a soild frame under it my next project is to replace the firewall and then the floor after that and then the cowl. My thinking is with the full frame under it I should avoid the saging problem. The frame measurements are in the shop manual. for 66 it was in section 17 but I don't know about any other year. You can also make bracings to go between the frame rail to help keep them straight. take some small pieces of angle iron and clamp them to the frame rails and cut some tubing to go between them and weld the tubing to the angle iron then when you take out each side you can clamp the new one in place. Also when I did mine I originally I was going to replace the whole drivers side but when I went and bought it and compared it to the original frame rail I took it back and bought patch pannels because it wasn't going to fix the equalizer bar mount for the clutch and would need alot of extra work to get it to fit right. I still had to modify the full outer pannal I used. Here are some pics of all the work.
http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/mustanglover6667/
http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/mustanglover6667/
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MtnMustang
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
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08-16-2015 08:07 PM