new engine is overheating
04-10-2008, 10:50 PM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
RE: new engine is overheating
ORIGINAL: javier146
I think it does not go over 190 idle, but when i drove it for three blocks it got up close to 220. The water pump was for that model engine, so hopefully that is not the problem. The radiator is probably very old, but in good condition.
I think it does not go over 190 idle, but when i drove it for three blocks it got up close to 220. The water pump was for that model engine, so hopefully that is not the problem. The radiator is probably very old, but in good condition.
How hot was it outside when you made your test run?
The reason I asked about the serpentine belt is because I think that the serpentine belt equipped engines use a reverse rotation water pump.... So, if you had a serpentine style pump, but are using it with the Mustang V belt setup, then the pump would be turning backward, and the water flow would be backward as well, causing an overheat condition.
04-10-2008, 10:56 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 593
RE: new engine is overheating
What temp. thermostat do you have installed? Could it possibly be a 190 degree t-stat?
As previously posted, 190 isn't that hot. If you're cruising down the highway with low RPMs, the temp should drop down to approx. 150-160. But idling in your driveway with limited cooling airflow, it's not uncommon to see 190+.
Start the car after it has cooled off (really cooled off). Pop the radiator cap. Start the car and let it idle. Watch the temps, and watch through the open radiator cap for any water flow. The water pump will not pump "air". It has to be full (to an extent) of coolant before it will start performing as advertised. Keep adding coolant (distilled water if you want for now). The water level in the radiator will eventually start to go down as the engine heats up to operating temperature. Add more coolant. At some point, it may overflow, let it. It will go back down. Add more coolant. Eventually, you'll work any trapped air out of the engine/hoses/radiator. Once everything seems to have settled down.... engine temp and coolant flow, re-install the radiator cap and take her for a spin down the road. Monitor the engine temp and don't "hot rod it", just drive normally. The temps should reach the temperature of whatever temp. t-stat you have installed. If you have a 180 in there, at some point, usually while idling in traffic, the temps will climb to 180+, the t-stat will open and the temps should slowly start coming down.
As an aside, what's this derale fan you're talking about? An electric fan or mechanical? Understand that no electric fan is as effective in moving air asa mechanical one is. I assume that your reference to 8000 cfm means that it's a mechanical fan, as no electric fan moves that much air. How far from the radiator is this fan? Is the fan shrouded or open?
Dave
As previously posted, 190 isn't that hot. If you're cruising down the highway with low RPMs, the temp should drop down to approx. 150-160. But idling in your driveway with limited cooling airflow, it's not uncommon to see 190+.
Start the car after it has cooled off (really cooled off). Pop the radiator cap. Start the car and let it idle. Watch the temps, and watch through the open radiator cap for any water flow. The water pump will not pump "air". It has to be full (to an extent) of coolant before it will start performing as advertised. Keep adding coolant (distilled water if you want for now). The water level in the radiator will eventually start to go down as the engine heats up to operating temperature. Add more coolant. At some point, it may overflow, let it. It will go back down. Add more coolant. Eventually, you'll work any trapped air out of the engine/hoses/radiator. Once everything seems to have settled down.... engine temp and coolant flow, re-install the radiator cap and take her for a spin down the road. Monitor the engine temp and don't "hot rod it", just drive normally. The temps should reach the temperature of whatever temp. t-stat you have installed. If you have a 180 in there, at some point, usually while idling in traffic, the temps will climb to 180+, the t-stat will open and the temps should slowly start coming down.
As an aside, what's this derale fan you're talking about? An electric fan or mechanical? Understand that no electric fan is as effective in moving air asa mechanical one is. I assume that your reference to 8000 cfm means that it's a mechanical fan, as no electric fan moves that much air. How far from the radiator is this fan? Is the fan shrouded or open?
Dave
04-10-2008, 11:03 PM
#14
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
RE: new engine is overheating
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku
We used this radiator on our 66. It works well with the 408W, it is an American made "Northern" brand radiator. I thought it was a great buy, and high quality.
this particular one fits a 64, 65, & 66, with a late model 302 or a 351. (left hand lower hose)
These can often be found on ebay for less $$, but I have not found one with a left hand bottom hose on there in some time.
You can spend more on an alum rad, but I think this one will do the job, and it is a direct bolt in...
We used this radiator on our 66. It works well with the 408W, it is an American made "Northern" brand radiator. I thought it was a great buy, and high quality.
this particular one fits a 64, 65, & 66, with a late model 302 or a 351. (left hand lower hose)
These can often be found on ebay for less $$, but I have not found one with a left hand bottom hose on there in some time.
You can spend more on an alum rad, but I think this one will do the job, and it is a direct bolt in...
04-12-2008, 04:24 AM
#16
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location:
Posts: 50
RE: new engine is overheating
I would agree that if you are running the original radiator for the car it is 1) probabaly FULL of build up 2) has enough fins dinged up that it is not getting sufficient air flow and 3) may not be big enough for the new engine.
All that said I will also agree that 190 is not too bad...remember the boiling point of straight water is 212. With the proper mix of water and ethylene glycol (aka radiator fluid) it goes up over 230. Put it in a pressurized system and it won't "boil" until about 250. I'm not saying 250 is good, just that 190-200 isn't that bad with an old radiator trying to cool an engine it wasn't designed for.
Spend the $240-300 for a new aftermarket radiator and I would be willing to bet your problem goes away.
All that said I will also agree that 190 is not too bad...remember the boiling point of straight water is 212. With the proper mix of water and ethylene glycol (aka radiator fluid) it goes up over 230. Put it in a pressurized system and it won't "boil" until about 250. I'm not saying 250 is good, just that 190-200 isn't that bad with an old radiator trying to cool an engine it wasn't designed for.
Spend the $240-300 for a new aftermarket radiator and I would be willing to bet your problem goes away.
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