SalineHornet

I have a '66 Mustang 289.

My A/C Compressor is leaking oil. Is there any way to fix this or am I looking at a replacment. It is a slow leak from the end of the compressor (opposite the end of the hoses) and is leaking from what looks like a metal ring (about 4 1/2 inches in diameter) seal.

In the picture I attached you can see the unit in my car... it has large pulley on front with hoses coming off one end (see the blue cap). The oilleak is on the end toward the passenger side of the car.

This picture is one from California Mustang Catalog.. it is standing on end minus the pulley.
http://www.cal-mustang.com/images/AC...srorig_std.jpg

Thanks for the help.. I just want to get an idea of what I am dealing with here.....

Also, should I add oil to replace what is slowly leaking out?

Thanks,
Russ

jlg2002

Unless you have access to R12, and have done AC work before, your better off letting a pro do this. I used to do a lot of AC work in my days as a technician and don't think I've ever seen a leak where you descibe it. The York compressormay have a base plate with a gasket. I'm not sure you can buy these parts anymore or not. It may be just as easy to replace the compressor. - Good luck. If you have a factory service manual. look on page 16-18 for a detail of the compressor's breakdown.

SalineHornet

Thanks for the reply... it seems hard to find folks that know much about this.

Anyone else have an ideas...

andrewmp6

Ac work needs to be done by someone who knows what there doing.Doing something wrong it can blow up.Yes a compressor can be rebuilt but id get a sanderson one and change it over to r134a r12 is what your car uses now and about 70 bucks a can your car needs almost 3 can if i remember right r134a is under 20 a can.Either way take it to a shop or you'll kick yourself later.

SalineHornet

I did get a response from a local mechanic... he says it leaking from the "end shaft O-ring" he said run the AC until it run out of oil or stops working and then replace the system.... $800 job parts and labor. He said it should be converted to R134 anyway....

I was hoping he would say he could replace the 0-ring...

SalineHornet

Updated: I found a local A/C - Radiator service business.... they said those compressors are like tanks and can be serviced and dont need to be converted !

SalineHornet

FYI - This is the reply I got from another guy that prompted me to seek a local AC service shop!

"The best bet is to have the compressor serviced. Just about any A/C shop will rebuild one and most of the Mustang supply houses carry the service parts. The fittings where the hoses go in are the valves, you can close those and isolate the compressor from the system and remove it. The bolt on top is for adding oil but should not affect anything. You should close the valves, remove the compressor and then take it to an A/C shop and have it serviced or rebuilt. It will cost alot less and they can make sure it is in perfect shape to bolt back on. Once you bolt it back on, you need to make sure there is a small amount of oil in it but not much as there is oil in the lines still charges with freon. You can then open the valves and run the system, it may need a small charge if at all and you should be in good shape for years to go. I have bought a compresser in a junk yard and cleaned it out and bolted it on my car and had cold a/c. Those old compressors are tanks. Hope that helps you out a bit.

It should be fine with the freon that is retained in the system when you close off the valves unless you were low to begin with. The system holds 95% of the freon and the compressor has just a small amount in it. Keep that in mind when you loosen the fitting, a small amount will leak out, that is normal. Just make sure the valves are shut before removing them. "

RLGIL

I think that disconnecting the lines from the compressor will akkow the feon in the system to escape into the air. This is a big no no!

SalineHornet

I went out and took a close look at the valves on the hoses that connect to the compressor....

On the valves are two metal aluminum caps, not the small plastic caps on top where you put the freon, and under these caps are where you can close the valves before you disconnect.

SalineHornet

Here is a picture of what I am referring too.... on top is where you put in the freon, the other end connects to the hose, the other end is where you can open and close the valve.