Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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I am looking for some place in the midwest, I am in Illinois, that will do frame rail replacement on my 67 convertible. The floor pan is good, the cowl is good, and shock towers are good. Ijust need to replace frame rails. Also about what amount of $$ should I pay somebody, what is the usual price? I am not rich by any means I would deliver the car stripped as far down as I could so that should reduce labor? It already has motor and trans out. Thanks ahead of time for your thoughts and opinions.
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I'm getting ready to do this on my 66 mustang also. I bought a welder.. was going to cost me more then the welder would've to have all the welding done. I'm in southern Illinois. Maybe after I get mine done I might be willing to help.
[align=left]Im not sure about the convertible, but a normal 67 coupe has one torque box. I've heard of late production models have the second added. But, if your front frame rails are bad, you can almost guarantee the torque box is bad too. The frame rail is the inside edge of the box. I know the convertibles have more torque boxes than a coupe or fastback so it may have a driver's and passenger passenger side front [/align][align=left]torque box. You may be able to do it yourself if you are mechanically inclined.[/align]
I agree with valley in regards to your torque box(es). Don't know who told you the rails only are bad. I have a hard time believing that the rails are the only thing bad unless the lighter metal has already been replaced.
Is it the front section of the rails, rear section or the entire rail?
Not sure if the verts had both torque boxes either though I know most of the 67 coupe/fastbacks didn't. Since your doing this I'd highly suggest you buy the passengers side torque box and install it. Its amazing how much it stiffens up the car.
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Yeah I am sure the torque boxes are probably bad as well. The previous owner welded 1/4" plate on the front frame rails, boxed it in so to speak. They must have replaced the floor pan because it doesn't even have a pin hole in it, but I don't se the welds. the rear section behind the driver under the rear window is rusty.Maybe I ll shoot a couple of pics so you can give me better advice? Thanks
Do you have a garage to do this in?When you get the car up in the air put stands under the rockers for support not under the rail since you are cutting this out. Make soure the car is level. Take alot of cross measurements also drop a plumb bob down from some of the mounting points (where the bumper bolts and the suspension bolts up lower control arm) Measure heights at this point and make marks on the floor so you can drop the plumb bob down as you are installing to make sure it is in the same location. Be as exact as you can since rail placement means everything to your front suspension alignment if it is to far off you will never get a good alignment and chew tires up like they are going out of style. Only do one rail at a time. I cant come to you but if you have questions if you decide to do this yourself I will be more than happy to help walk you thru this. That goes for anyone here that may have questions on this. Also there is some on ebay that sells frame charts and this would be a good piece of info to purchase. They are usually under $30 for these charts. Doing a rail is not that hard just takes time and patience and you can never measure to much. you will want brace some spots on the car for stability but we can deal with that when the time comes. Jason
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