UH60LCHIEF

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

These work great. I usually also submerge some clear vinyl line in about 1" of fluid in a container hung next to the calipers so no bubbles can get back into the lines and you can see when you get nice clean fluid. I've tried using different brake fluid brands so the color changes when you get the new stuff all the way through the line. Beats trying to explain brake bleeding to my chick for sure

JapanGT

I bought a vacuum type unit to bleed the brakes. Personally I think it was a waste of money as it sucks air in around the bleeder so its
hard to tell when the line is actually blead. Those speed bleeders look to be a good idea. How does the unit actually lock seal? I can see
how the ball bearing can act to allow fluid out but how do they lock the ball in place to or how does it seal when the bleeder is tightened up?

Jav

kalli

+1 on the vacuum thing. you sit there and this thing sucks and sucks and you cannot tell if it's ok now or not.
Some people say you hear it (i don't believe in it). I have to bench bleed my master as I didn't do it right the first time and then off to the brakes again.

As to your question about the speed bleeders. Let me answer your question with a question ;-) How does a normal bleeder screw work. How does that prevent brakefluid coming out once its closed .,..

that's a normal one:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/M/3266-1.JPG

dnswwood

engine needs to NOT be running ,and always start on the furthest bleeder from master cylinder.Dont expect to get it 'perfect " on the first try.Bleed it ..drive it ..bleed it again ....always go from futherst bleeder to closest.If master is new or all lines have been removed from it bench bleeding master might be a good idea.with these cars faster is better ..butONLY if you can STOP!!!!!

Ispeak from first hand knowledge on this....got pulled becauseI couldnt slow down enough quick enough...luckily trooper was a motor head and really just wanted to talk mustangs

hope this helps
jeff

UH60LCHIEF

If it's a new master you MUST bench bleed it. Usually the master cylinder states right on the box that failing to do so will void the warantee. My last one did anyway and I've always bled it on the bench first. Many newer master cylinders have a bleeder port right on them. You will doubtfully see that on a Classic unless you're doing some serious brake system re-design like going to a hydraulic rather than vacuum assist though. The "bleed it drive it bleed it again" advice is good. I usually bleed it two or three times until I get good pedal pressure before I take it out on the road. Oh and BTW those vacuum pumps are only good if you get the industrial type. Those hand held jobs are usually Chineese pewp.

boogerschnot

It worked out well last night, I had the wife push the pedal and hold while I opened the bleeder and then closed over and over again. I kept forgeting to tell her when I was done though,, so she would still be pushing the pedal and I would be out and walking around the car.. LOL... "so your not under the car,, does that mean I can let go of the pedal now??" Ohh,, sorry, I got distracted...

The brakes work great.. I think I will re-bleed them though in a couple of days.. Just in case..