Adrenolin

Got the CNC clutch master cylinder installed along side the power booster in the firewall earlier this week. Inside has a support plate and I'll be adding another in the engine bay side also to clean it up a bit. We had to modify the clutch pedal with some additional iron to align with the master cylinder location but the fit is good. I'll add a few pics of the pedal mod later as I dropped it off at the welding shop down the street today. Our MIG welder wouldn't weld the stock we used.

Disregard the mess and trimming needed in areas still.

JamesW

Lookin' good!

67BullittCoupe

looks bee-u-t-ful

why didnt you paint it before installing? just wondering.

Adrenolin

Well its a start. Originally it wouldn't fit in "top up" but at a 45* angle. This put it too close to the side wall and by the time you put a 90* on the reservoir intake it would have been through the wall. So grabbed a torch and a big hammer. From inside the car I had to heat up the firewall where it comes in around the booster and beat it out (into the engine bay) to get enough flat surface for the MC to fit upright as it does now. Its still rough but the fit is great and the pedal travel worked out nicely.

If it don't fit, make it fit! Funny, I'm getting more and more used to that saying these days. Not sure if thats a good or bad thing lol

67BullittCoupe

hey its your car. do what you will.

at leas you HAVE a power booster, and a hydraulic clutch.

im still powerless and stiff-legged.

davesanborn

Please show me a picture of how the clutch pedal connects to the clutch master. I've never in my life seen a clutch master mounted that low on the firewall before.

Here's a picture ofa clutch master with PB booster on a 68 car I did last year.



Notice that theclutch masterin the proper position is considerably higher than where yours is. If you connect the clutch master lower on the pedal than as pictured above it will create a lot more pedal effort the lower that you go.

Dave

Adrenolin

Dave,
As I said above I dropped the clutch pedal off today for final welding and I don't have an inside photo of it setup just yet. However I GIMPed your photo a bit to give you a general idea. You'll see the vertical upright flat stock we used and the horizontal brace from angle stock. These are being professionally welded due to their thickness. The round gray circle to the left is about where the MC comes through. Bought a fitting that threads onto the MC shaft and has a round hole on its side from which a balled bolt comes out and is fastened through the new vertical flat stock. For the life of me I cant remember the type (name) of the fitting. Got it locally here from Parts 4 Trucks and the guys told me that even though it doesn't look strong the clutch would never break it. I guess its used on some fairly large trucks and hydraulic equipment.

As for the pedal effort issue I don't think there is one. When I had it in I was able to easily press the clutch down without that much effort at all. Something I'll pay a bit more attention to once we get the pedal back in though. Thanks for mentioning this.

btw... I'd love to see the other side of the firewall and the booster that allows that MC to be that close. Thats gotta be a much smaller booster than what I used.

davesanborn

I dunno man.... I'm not saying that it won't work, but it sure looks odd way down there. I hope your pedal effort isn't too great due to the decreased leverage. I guess we'll find out soon enough.

Here's a picture of a factory stock replacement OEM spec PB booster installed along side the JMC clutch master. You can barely make out the clutch master in the this picture, but it's designed to angle downward at a 30 degree angle to help clear the side of the booster.



There are 2 different types of PB booster you can use on a classic Mustang. IIRC, they're referred to as the Midland style (like yours).... and the Bendix style (like mine). The Bendix style has a considerably narrower diameter booster.

Dave

Adrenolin

Ahh yes thats what I figured you used. The wife wanted the larger chromed PB as the engine bay will be black, block will be a bright deep purple, stainless braided piping and hoses and a few powder coated items in black, purple and yes.. silver. I think I prefer the larger Midland style as well since it not as deep and keeps the MC back in the corner more. Our MC will be powder coated either black to hide it or purple to pop it off the chrome PB.

I'll have another look at it once we get the pedal back and all setup though. Thanks for pointing this out so I can step back and double check it.

I like your setup and it would have definitely been simpler then all the beating and pounding we had to do. Will have to keep the JMC clutch master noted in my wiki as this is her car and I get to do mine after her car is finished.

What the wife wants, the wife gets. Happy Wife... Happy Life!

d_ford

Not to hijack the thread but I have a question for you guys. I put a JMC hyd. clutch in mine and I'm stumped. The m/c rod is adjusted all the way in and it's still too long when attached to the pedal so it won't allow fluid to pass. Is the spacer/backing plate that came with it supposed to be outside the firewall as a backing plate or inside the firewall as as a spacer? I put mine outside to strengthen where it mounts to the firewall but it looks like if it were inside it would space out the m/c enough to make the rod length about right when adjusted all the way in.
This clutch problem has me in limbo on the project and I want to resolve it before I go any further.
Thanks.