kalli

i don't knwo where to start.
Car was 6 cylidner and converted to V8 when I bought it 3 years ago. But axle and rest of car was still 6cyl stuff.
After breaking one rearend and JMD sending me another one I decided I can't go on like that so I thought about importing bigger parts.
Namely a 9" housing and trac-loc diff. So I had to get new wheels and tyres on back (4-lug to 5 lug). So I had to do the front as well.
The discbrakeswap kit came in handy. So I thought when I'm going that mad with big parts I might as well change the transmission fro 3spd to 5spd.
So I organised a nice rebuild T5. I had all parts shipped to Ireland.

With the help of the forum and a little luck I managed to buy all parts needed without forgetting much or getting it wrong.
I was afraid I got the wrong lug bolts, U-joints etc etc ...Short story I got it all in after about 2 months, but I coulnd't match the u-joints.
I spent time ordering and checking u-joints and another month later ended up buying a used driveshaft from a 66 8cyl auto which suits me well.
No problem gettign joints for that.
Then I realised that my pinion angle was off bu as much as 10 degrees. So back to the pit. rip out the rear axle again. Cut the perches, weld new ones back on.
After all this and more hassle I had it sorted which was when my alternator decided to pack up.
Annoyed to crap I tried to troubleshoot ifg it actually iis the alt. So at that time the starter solenoid gave up as well.
Luckily a mate had a replacement. He got one for a friend and I told him: "get 3 as they constantly fry".
I didn'ty want to order an alternator in the states and wait another 2 weeks so I hunted down an alternator from a 1.6l Ford Escort that I could get fopr free.
I was not concerned about amperage delivered by the thing as there is no electronics in the car anyway. SO I spent another 3 hours modifying this to fit (a bracket and a bit of cabling).
And it works!!

So after all this I can start the car with a key it stays running. I can put it into gear and drive.

There is still a bit to be done:
1. brake light switch
2. adjust caster (car is darting but I had no gear for measuring caster). Camber and toe-in I did already.
3. check on bleeding the brakes again

So there will be a few more questions in the forum from my side .... but

I AM DRIVING AGAIN
YIEPPIEEEEEE

Thanks to all on the forum who helped. Especially JMD, Daze, Gun, Tylor and dodgestang (probably forgotten a few)
Mack and Pa for their tools and pit and ideas and manual labour
My girlfriend for putting up with that crap

HGC

CONGRATULATIONS!! Always great to hear about another Mustanger back on the road. Your work paid off.

Gun Jam

Right on
What a battel

-Gun

4reboy

great job Kalli! keep it up and good luck with the remaining things

67droptop1

So you tried the 6cyl rearend and it wouldn't hold. Can I ask if you were being hard on it or just normal driving. I am starting to do this myself. I have another 5 lug V-8 rear but I wanted to wait abit to put it in do you think I should do it now I plan on babying the car untill I can get all the parts rounded up for the switch? Oh and congrats!!! I should have said that in the beggining..... I know it isn't all about me!

kalli

yah. if it's the integral rear end (not pumpkin style) it will work fine if you plan on rolling it downhill. but if you throw the power from a 289 at it it will be complaining. a few times. and if you don't listen it will start making noise upon accelleration. Then start whining at all times. This is when your pinion bearing is about to cry ... a few more times accelleration and it will make "clunk" unless the u-joint breaks first ...

So for that. It will hold but not if you think about using your accellerator which I believe all of us do. i was being hard occasionally with a bit of wheelhopping occasionally which the rearend will never forgive you. I managed to get 5000 miles out of it being quite careful

I believe there's nothing in your way to put in your 8" rear straight away. If you have a V8 in the front then you should definetly do this. What parts are you missing for the swap? wheels and tyres ?

Norm Peterson

Caster can be determined indirectly from two sets of camber measurements.

Steer the front wheels 20° to the right (this will take something like one whole turn at the steering wheel, perhaps more)
Take camber measurements, keeping track of the signs
Steer the front wheels to 20° left
Take camber measurements, keeping track of the signs

Right side caster = 1.5 x ( [camber with wheels steered right] - [camber with wheels steered left] )

Left side caster = 1.5 x ( [camber with wheels steered left] - [camber with wheels steered right] )


Norm

JMD

Congradulations Kalli!

You have my respect!

I have to admire a guy that can make all of this stuff happen in Ireland!

I am glad for you and I am looking foreward to the upcoming video!

kalli

Thanks JMD ... to be honest, without the forums, the internet and friends it would not have been possible. I remember talking to you 6 months ago on what parts I might need and what not ... I was so nervous as there was only 2 options: either it works, or I'll be sitting on a pile of parts that I won't get in :-] So i'm deligheted about the way it worked out. Especially after all the unforseeable problems I had.
In any case if anyone else in this country comes up with a similar idea I will have tons and tons of advise to give LOL

Thanks again

Kalli

67droptop1

Wheels and complete brakes that I just installed on the 6cyl rearend. If I hadn't of just done that I would switch now.