Manual Brakes To Power Brakes Conversion
#1
Manual Brakes To Power Brakes Conversion
i just got some granada disc brakes and while i have everything apart i want to change over to power brakes.
what all do i have to do. do i just need the power brake booster/master cylinder and a new distribution block or is it more to it. if there a write up, can someone give me teh link. thanks
what all do i have to do. do i just need the power brake booster/master cylinder and a new distribution block or is it more to it. if there a write up, can someone give me teh link. thanks
#2
Make sure you have a good proportioning valve. Remember, the fronts should lock up before the rears.That is if you still have rear drums. Make a few braking passes and keep adjusting the valve to get the correct setup. Good Luck!
#3
For my 72 Mach I bought the following:
Complete 72 Ford spindles with all of the items, calipers/splash shields/rotors $250 (ebay)
They were original so I bought new slotted/drilled rotors, pads (ebay) and new calipers and painted them red. ~$200 (local auto store)
The bearings were still good so no cost
Used original proportioning valve for a power booster car $30 (ebay)
New flexible brake line $45 (caliper to hard lines) (NAPA)
New power booster with Master cylinder (rockauto.com) ~$120
Used power brake pedal and bracket $30 (ebay)
Power brake foot pedal cover ~$10 (NPD)
The hard brake lines needed to be bent and cut so I bought a flair tool and re used the fittings as needed.
The firewall hole had to be enlarged as the power booster assembly sat a little lower and its bolted from inside the car vs. the engine bay so you might have to drill out the holes or as in my case the new mounting bracket for the brake pedal was set up for it already
I cant think if any thing else, overall it was easy to do once I received the correct parts.
Complete 72 Ford spindles with all of the items, calipers/splash shields/rotors $250 (ebay)
They were original so I bought new slotted/drilled rotors, pads (ebay) and new calipers and painted them red. ~$200 (local auto store)
The bearings were still good so no cost
Used original proportioning valve for a power booster car $30 (ebay)
New flexible brake line $45 (caliper to hard lines) (NAPA)
New power booster with Master cylinder (rockauto.com) ~$120
Used power brake pedal and bracket $30 (ebay)
Power brake foot pedal cover ~$10 (NPD)
The hard brake lines needed to be bent and cut so I bought a flair tool and re used the fittings as needed.
The firewall hole had to be enlarged as the power booster assembly sat a little lower and its bolted from inside the car vs. the engine bay so you might have to drill out the holes or as in my case the new mounting bracket for the brake pedal was set up for it already
I cant think if any thing else, overall it was easy to do once I received the correct parts.
Last edited by 71stang99; 09-27-2008 at 07:21 PM.
#5
so basically i need the power brake booster itself, the power brake pedal (will it fit into my old bracket or do i have to get a new one (i dont mind drilling new holes) and proportion valve (4-way)
since i am putting disc brakes. do i have to find a power brake pedal for disc brakes or it wont matter long as it's power.
i found this power brake pedal on ebay for $75.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-...mZ140263249106
since i am putting disc brakes. do i have to find a power brake pedal for disc brakes or it wont matter long as it's power.
i found this power brake pedal on ebay for $75.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-...mZ140263249106
Last edited by pimp2303; 09-27-2008 at 09:56 PM.
#8
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