Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
How big of wheels will urs fit now? Also, if you can find one, a versailles rear axle is like 2 or3 inches narrower. Allowed me to run 10" wheels out back with only slight rub on extreme suspension travel. Also, this setup gives you disc brakes. If you can find grenada fronts, they match and you dont even need to change the proportioning valve. I didnt, but my brake setup is kinda a conglomerate. plus i gotz huge meats out back so more bite on the rear at same brake pressure, but im rambling
1971 Mach1 302 H.O.w/AOD from 92 GT. Converted to carburated, E303, ARP rod bolts, 70 351W heads, head studs, MLS gaskets, 14psi Procharger in process. Rest of car has 9" Versailles rear axle w/4.56 gears, disc brakes on all 4 corners, 20 gal. alum. cell, 72gph carter fuel pump, Cragar 15x10 out back 15x8 up front, subframe connectors, stiffened rear springs. Just a DD lookin to kick some late models-no offense-lol
I'm just running a 94-04 style bullit wheel, 18x10.5, rubber will be about 11 wide, all I will need to do is mini tub to the frame rail. If you wanted to relocate the frame rail you could go as far as you wanted, probably a good 16 inch wide tire until you hit the links. The 94 wheels give me a good offset, looks like I will not even have to narrow my rear end. I don't know what the 9" is from, car should of had a 8" from the factory but it had a 9" when I got it.
No tips, pretty straight forward, but I am not done yet, This is what I have done. Like we said, We had to shim the cross member, make sure you are center, I also made sure I was square with the car, You could adjust the links to make the rear end straight, but then you would have launch problems due to different geometry on either side.
Here are almost all my pictures, I did integral subframe connectors that tie into the 4 link.
When you get the kit and go to pre fit, it will be clear what you have to do. You measure from the rear of the front brace to install the shock mount bracket, the shock mount bracket has the angles to hug the frame rails but the trunk area by the gas tank is in the way, just have to cut a couple inches of the trunk sheet metal out across the length of the shock mount bar that goes across the trunk area so the cross bar will mount flush with the frame. Then you can build a cap over it, or do what I am going to do and weld the floor to it.
you lost me.. you zerod them? What I did was square the front crossmember to the car, I measured to a set line in the rear, I choose the rear by where the axle will sit, that was the true measurement I wanted. That way I know the rear axle will be square to the front crossmember, measuring from a set place on either side of the car where the axle will set makes sure the axle will be square with the car. Now the rear axle should then be square with the car and have the same triangulation with the links (same length of the links on either side of the axle).
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor