Gun Jam

Evil


I have the stock type motor mount and the rubber mount is the same one that was on my C4 (almost certain of this). The motor mount is made from the crappy vulcanized rubber that gets splattered all over the metal part and you have to cut the rubber off the places it doesn't belong (yeah those) same ones I had with the C4

I totally agree that road force testing is the best solution. Rarely do we get the luxury of doing things the best way. It sounds like its going to set me back 300 bucks (Kalli thinks I wasted that much on my DS already ) and I live in central Ca one of the poorest places in the US because its all farmland and with the most expensive gas in all of the US so I dont think I can find a place around here to do that....How much does it really cost and do all Mercedes dealers have them? Where else can i find them?

67 evil eleanor

Bad mounts could be a viberation source also, so make sure they are good. Anyway, I think I paid about 12 to 15 bux per tire, but I had them off the car. I have seen ads on the net offered from all different dealers (Ford, Chevy, Chrysler, etc) and sometimes they offer specials. I would shop around and seek the best price (300 bux is ridiculous). Here's a simple solution that may be worth a try first, and give a hint if "it is" a tire/rim problem (FREE). Try another set of tires/rims from another car that is known to run smooth at the speeds you are having the viberation, give them a run, and see if they are smooth, if so, then you need to take a very close look at yours. All that will cost is a little time and gas. You can do this with the drive shaft also (if you can find one to fit). Call your friends and see what you can come up with.

chris66dad

I am going to take my DS in and have it shortened and balanced. I have .500 inch free play now and the DS shop said I might be able to get by if I had a "strong" 1/2 inch plus. He said they recommend running .750 to 1.000 inch free play.
I asked about vibration and he said he has seen vibration caused by too much free play because of the reduced contact to the splined area.
I can feel your frustration chasing this problem.
$110 to shorten and balance and $20 for each U Joint installed.
http://www.driveline-service.com/index.ivnu (SF Bay area)

Gun Jam

-evil

Thats not too bad at all...Ill try looking into it. That could indeed smooth things out a bit. I still seriously doubt this vibration is anywhere other than the DS, trans, area.

I can hear it from the shifter handle, I can feel it in the shifter handle and sometimes in the pedals.

Sad story...no friends so thats out of the question

-Chris

Thanks for the numbers...That looks a bit close more than I had when I started though and 1 inch additional might have got me in trouble. I was just barely able to install the DS if it had been .15" longer I could not have install it.

Thanks guys

-Gun

fakesnakes

Your post yesterday had an additional piece of info i missed the first time around. You said the vibration started, but got worse when you backed off the throttle. That reinforces my opinion that it is the driveshaft (which looks too short in the picture). When the engine is driving the shaft, the torque is on the yoke and it tends to hold the yoke in a consistent position. When you let off the gas, the wheels drive the shaft through the rear end, but the yoke is now freer to move. If there is freeplay in the yoke, it will be more noticable as a vibration when you are decelerating.

On all the driveshafts I have purchased from Denny's, it feels like the shaft is too long to install and I end up rotating the rearend to work the ujoint into the pinion. This gives about 3/4" to 1" of play.

67 evil eleanor

You can do it one wheel at a time also, just more trips. I am at a loss, but it seems like its in the drive line or tranny by the order of events. Here is another chart with some good info. Remember it can be as simple as a bad u-joint.
http://www.greenlighthonda.com/share...04/4fig15.html

Scott H.

.....

Gun Jam

Okay Scott now that we are on the same page angle wise. I am reading your post as: "lower the trans a 1/4 degree"
is that correct? if yes what about the 2 deg shim?

Or are you saying we should have the squad shift base of fire towards the DS now and leave the angles alone as they are good now?

Scott what do you think about the DS length at the tailshaft. I saw your picture and it looks like the DS on your mustang fits into the tail housing another 1/2" further...Now im wishing someone had told me "hey lookit kid that DS length is critical and needs to be within 1/4" inch"

Thanks guys

-Gun

kalli

whatever comes out of this, this is a post for learning. thats for sure.
I don't want to tell you to get a DS and in the end that is not the problem you see.
I was about to cut my shaft as well. but held off. there is a huge rubber boot on mine and the shaft touches it. I actually have to push in that boot to mount the shaft. So I thought I have to have it sticking out the boot by 3/4". I'm about to rub it that's what gave me the idea.
Maybe just unmount the shaft in the rear and see how far you can puish that thing in so that you hit the end (until it foes no further). This should be the value yours is 'sticking' out.
But I am very much liking the idea of going back to the fellas who measured it in the first place. See what they think. They seem to know what they're doing

Kalli

Gun Jam

For sure this thread is about 120 post long and has more views than the FAQ I guess we are all learning something.

I plan to exhaust all the cheep solutions first....

-Gun