pinion angle or driveline?
#201
Once you consider cutting and welding, there really isn't any reason to avoid doing whatever it would take to make it work.
Maybe cut the "top" of the OE crossmember back about an inch so the bolt holes won't fall on a weld and fit the "shelf" into the cutout, overhanging by however much required. You might have to rework the rear vertical web a little as well.
Plan view, I think I'd taper the width of the crossmember on the rear side rather than leave it with square edged corners, and the front side would remain the way it is.
Norm
Maybe cut the "top" of the OE crossmember back about an inch so the bolt holes won't fall on a weld and fit the "shelf" into the cutout, overhanging by however much required. You might have to rework the rear vertical web a little as well.
Plan view, I think I'd taper the width of the crossmember on the rear side rather than leave it with square edged corners, and the front side would remain the way it is.
Norm
#202
New Vibration...RMP mounts...
hey
So when I first installed the ron morris mounts I noticed it felt different at idle but about normal when I took it for a quick test drive. Well after a good 2 hrs of getting to know the new mounts its obvious that something bad....
There is a vibration that is related to engine RPM now. after a 10 min drive my feet tingle from the excess vibration in the gas pedal. It is not acceptable.
as rpm gets past 2500 the vibration gets worse you can hear it and feel it. everything below 75/80 before was gravy now its gone to hell at 25 mph in lower gears.. so its clearly related to the mounts....It kinda feels like the engine / trans is rubbing on a frame part maybe....
My plan is to add an 1/8th spacer under the slider so it raises the engine an 1/8th and see if that fixes the problem.
But before I start I was wondering if anyone else had tried the RMP mounts and if they noticed any change in vibration levels at all? Im guessing this isnt standard or no one would buy them....
Thanks
-Gun
So when I first installed the ron morris mounts I noticed it felt different at idle but about normal when I took it for a quick test drive. Well after a good 2 hrs of getting to know the new mounts its obvious that something bad....
There is a vibration that is related to engine RPM now. after a 10 min drive my feet tingle from the excess vibration in the gas pedal. It is not acceptable.
as rpm gets past 2500 the vibration gets worse you can hear it and feel it. everything below 75/80 before was gravy now its gone to hell at 25 mph in lower gears.. so its clearly related to the mounts....It kinda feels like the engine / trans is rubbing on a frame part maybe....
My plan is to add an 1/8th spacer under the slider so it raises the engine an 1/8th and see if that fixes the problem.
But before I start I was wondering if anyone else had tried the RMP mounts and if they noticed any change in vibration levels at all? Im guessing this isnt standard or no one would buy them....
Thanks
-Gun
#203
My plan is to add an 1/8th spacer under the slider so it raises the engine an 1/8th and see if that fixes the problem.
But before I start I was wondering if anyone else had tried the RMP mounts and if they noticed any change in vibration levels at all? Im guessing this isnt standard or no one would buy them....
Thanks
-Gun
#204
Yeah I added spacers to the cross brace to lower it....I cant see any area where it would hit other than the xbrace under the oil pan....Ill let you know how my experiment goes.
im 99% sure its either hitting something or the RMP mounts simply do not dampen any vibration or some how magnify it...I hope its hitting something because I really love the design of those mounts...Fingers crossed.
-Gun
im 99% sure its either hitting something or the RMP mounts simply do not dampen any vibration or some how magnify it...I hope its hitting something because I really love the design of those mounts...Fingers crossed.
-Gun
#205
Hi Gun,
I was so excited to be at the car (and have it driving) that I completely forgot to measure or take pics for you. yesterday I tried with proper camera but I was too close to ground. I'll try again with mobile phone and measure.
My issue seems resolved since I have the new engine in. I have not the foggiest idea what actually resolved it. It could have been
a) new pilot bearing in engine
b) the position of the engine itself
when I mounted the engine I couldn't mount the transmission crossbrace. So I loosened the motor mounts and pushed the engine back with my legs as far as it would go. The transmission now seems to sit in the exact same spot as before (as from what I can judge by the shifter opening)
But judging from the driveshaft the transmission sits a bit further back as I'm now hitting the dust rubber boot at the end of tailshaft (with the slipyoke) where I had quarter inch gap before.
I'm still puzzled about it but nontheless happy. I will still check on my new angles on pinion if anything changed there and will still shim it to relief a bit of stress on the pinion/u-joint if I can.
Kalli
I was so excited to be at the car (and have it driving) that I completely forgot to measure or take pics for you. yesterday I tried with proper camera but I was too close to ground. I'll try again with mobile phone and measure.
My issue seems resolved since I have the new engine in. I have not the foggiest idea what actually resolved it. It could have been
a) new pilot bearing in engine
b) the position of the engine itself
when I mounted the engine I couldn't mount the transmission crossbrace. So I loosened the motor mounts and pushed the engine back with my legs as far as it would go. The transmission now seems to sit in the exact same spot as before (as from what I can judge by the shifter opening)
But judging from the driveshaft the transmission sits a bit further back as I'm now hitting the dust rubber boot at the end of tailshaft (with the slipyoke) where I had quarter inch gap before.
I'm still puzzled about it but nontheless happy. I will still check on my new angles on pinion if anything changed there and will still shim it to relief a bit of stress on the pinion/u-joint if I can.
Kalli
#207
So I raised the engine up 1/4" and I think it help out quite a bit at lower RPM...it all goes to hell around 4k now instead of around 2500...
Is it acceptable....I dont know...yet... give me a week.
Someone said that running poly bushing up front and rubber on the trans like I have now can create issues...Switching to poly on trans may help.
Im fixing to call RMP tomorrow and see if he has any ideas about how to smooth her out a bit more
At least now I can drive it around...its not murder anymore
-Gun
Is it acceptable....I dont know...yet... give me a week.
Someone said that running poly bushing up front and rubber on the trans like I have now can create issues...Switching to poly on trans may help.
Im fixing to call RMP tomorrow and see if he has any ideas about how to smooth her out a bit more
At least now I can drive it around...its not murder anymore
-Gun
#208
Hey guys - I'm new to this forum, but chalk me up as another 1966 T5 swaper that has the highway speed vibration. Over the last two years, I've been down all the roads that you guys are exploring and have not found any solutions yet.
Frist I had the custom made steel driveshaft re-balanced, then new u-joints, then put on new tires, then new wheels, then new axles/bearings/gears, then got the tranny/pinion angles within 1/4 degree, made sure that the engine/tranny/pinion all dead center of the car, and finally replaced the slip yoke and tranny rear bearing and seal. And I still have the damn vibration - all the "fixes" have done nothing but push the vibration from about 4000 driveshaft rpm to about 4250 rpm.
I find it very, very odd that everyone seems to have the vibration at the same driveshaft RPM AND that no-one with a 1964-1966 T5 swap has responded that they DON'T have the vibration. Also, if you guys have googled "t5 vibration" you'll note that it is a very common problem for guys that are swapping the T5 into other vehicles - Volvos, Datsun Zs, etc.
Hmmmm - there must be a very common thread that is being overlooked.
What about the slip yoke? I'm using the toploader slip yoke (albiet a brand new one) and as I recall, its total length is longer than the original. I made damn sure that driveshaft was cut so that the u-joint is EXACTLY the same distance from the tranny tail as it was when in the 5.0 -- this would put more of the "splined" part of the slip yoke into the tranny. While I was told that this wouldn't make a difference, I wonder if it does? Anyone used a different slip yoke than the one from the toploader or C4? Anyone with a stock 5.0 T5 slip yoke?
What has everyone else used?
Frist I had the custom made steel driveshaft re-balanced, then new u-joints, then put on new tires, then new wheels, then new axles/bearings/gears, then got the tranny/pinion angles within 1/4 degree, made sure that the engine/tranny/pinion all dead center of the car, and finally replaced the slip yoke and tranny rear bearing and seal. And I still have the damn vibration - all the "fixes" have done nothing but push the vibration from about 4000 driveshaft rpm to about 4250 rpm.
I find it very, very odd that everyone seems to have the vibration at the same driveshaft RPM AND that no-one with a 1964-1966 T5 swap has responded that they DON'T have the vibration. Also, if you guys have googled "t5 vibration" you'll note that it is a very common problem for guys that are swapping the T5 into other vehicles - Volvos, Datsun Zs, etc.
Hmmmm - there must be a very common thread that is being overlooked.
What about the slip yoke? I'm using the toploader slip yoke (albiet a brand new one) and as I recall, its total length is longer than the original. I made damn sure that driveshaft was cut so that the u-joint is EXACTLY the same distance from the tranny tail as it was when in the 5.0 -- this would put more of the "splined" part of the slip yoke into the tranny. While I was told that this wouldn't make a difference, I wonder if it does? Anyone used a different slip yoke than the one from the toploader or C4? Anyone with a stock 5.0 T5 slip yoke?
What has everyone else used?
#209
Crap that's what I want to hear.....thanks for that
are you running the stock DS that was on your c4?
I wonder if a 3" DS would fix the problem?
I am also running the c4 slip yoke.
-Gun
are you running the stock DS that was on your c4?
I wonder if a 3" DS would fix the problem?
I am also running the c4 slip yoke.
-Gun
#210
i have a T5 slip yoke from NPD (that sell the moderndriveline products).
my 50mph car shaker went after I changed the engine, but now I have (this time I can actually feel/hear it coming from exactly where the rear axle is):
60mph ok
70mph some vibration coming and going in rythm (drrrrrrr ....... drrrrrrrr .......)
80mph can feel a tad but not hear
90mph ok but when I let go the throttle mad vibratiuons again.
Good news is that I still have to figure out my angles... Have the shims lying around to go in somewhen thyis week I hope
my 50mph car shaker went after I changed the engine, but now I have (this time I can actually feel/hear it coming from exactly where the rear axle is):
60mph ok
70mph some vibration coming and going in rythm (drrrrrrr ....... drrrrrrrr .......)
80mph can feel a tad but not hear
90mph ok but when I let go the throttle mad vibratiuons again.
Good news is that I still have to figure out my angles... Have the shims lying around to go in somewhen thyis week I hope