JamesW

302 motors prior to 1982 (or 1984..I forget) have a flywheel that has a 28oz imbalance. Later model 5.0 motors have a 50oz imbalance. So to run a late model flywheel on an early motor, you have to either find an aftermarket flywheel that is designed for this transition, or you take a late model flywheel to an engine shop and have them cut it down to the early model 28oz imbalance.

The pic below shows a late model flywheel cut down to use on an early motor.

remicks

Alright I think I get what you are saying for the flywheels, basically get the 50oz to weigh 28oz. But what is the difference between the two other than the weight? I don't see a real difference in the picture.

And thanks Gun for the measurements to aim for. I definitely was not going to cut anything on the drive shaft before fitting it and seeing how much needs to go. The cut once measure twice method.

JamesW

they have different pressure plate bolt patterns and run different size clutches. The late model centrifical clutch is much smoother.

Not sure but I believe the ring diameter is slightly different.

pascal

Remicks, if it's any help...

I used the King Cobra clutch M-7560-C302N with the 50.oz flywheel M-6375-C302.
Pressure plate bolts and dowel pins kit M-6397-A302.
Bell housing M-6392-R58.
Modern driveline clutch kit.
I don't remember what I did for pilot, throwout bearing and fork...
Just reuse the parts from the fox donor car.

I put a lot of miles on this application with a 342 stroker and nothing ever faded or broke down.

I'm running a Tremec not a T5, so you might have to reuse the fox bell housing.
The R58 bell I'm using, allows for the old style starter as well and it even fit behind a Cleveland. Not that it's gonna help you, lol.

remicks

Alright thanks. So I'm am going to try to get everything I can from the fox, I'm going to get the t5 bellhousing and hopefully get the fork, pilot and throwout bearing. So at this point I will need;

50oz flywheel machined to 28oz
Modern Clutch
Clutch Linkage kit from whoever
Transmission crossmember
Adapter yoke & U joint

Anything else I need?
What about the pressure plate?

pascal

Comes with the clutch kit.

chris66dad

Ok Gun, you have me thinking now since i was going to drop off the DS this week. I know you are chasing vibration issue that is perplexing you.
Here is what I did to measure my freeplay:
Jacked up the rear end and put jack stands under the axle to support the full weight of the rear end to simulate the natural position of the car.
Unbolted DS from the 3rd member.
Slid the yoke all the way into the T5.
Measured the distance from the U joint and its mounting surface on the 3rd member. I measured a gap of .5 inches.
Is this the distance you are referring to?
Where did you get the greater than 0.468 but no larger than 0.689 distance from?
I am not sure of the forces that will cause the gap to decrease such as full compression of the springs, full launch acceleration or braking and how they move the DS.
The last thing I want is to have all of the free play go away and break a u joint or bend the DS or worse...
Thoughts???

Thanks
Ron

Gun Jam

I was using those numbers as examples to make a point that "about an inch" is far to subjective for something that quite possible could be more critical than initially thought.

Here is a photo of my actual setup using real numbers..




Thats the end result from someone say "hey bout an inch shorter"

The distance that read 1.77 is the one I'm referring to.. I my case if I think if the DS was perfect the 1.77 gap should realistically be between 0.980 and 1.255 inch

Again this might not even the problem...and maybe "about an inch" is indeed a good enough and entire issue really is just pinion angle.

Im just trying to help you guys out by suggesting that you should shoot for a real number or real range of numbers I honestly think that this real range of numbers is .980 to 1.255" would be excellent. ..to be safe if it turns out that a subjective fake number isn't accurate enough.

Good luck

-Gun

pascal

It depends on the combo you're going with, don't you think guys?
I needed that inch off with that Tremec set up...
Is that tranny a tad longer than the T5?

Gun Jam

actually every mustang is different as far as I can tell. When doing the swap you can NEVER assume that your DS must be made shorter. Sometimes they are fine as they are sometimes they need to be .750 shorter sometimes over an 1" shorter.
The only way to know how much to trim off it is to physically measure it once its all ready to go.

-Gun