1967 mustang with 4.6l cobra engine
#11
With a supercharger things get a little tighter. Mine is a 5.4 32 Valve with adaptor plates and the Eaton. I had to machine a wedge to lower the angle of the neck of the S/C to get the hood to fit. ALso I made a chopped oil pan and notched the cross member. The 5.4's are the Big Daddy's of the Modular family. As you can see by all the photos in this post, it can be done.
#12
I just dropped an 03 Cobra motor into my 70 Fastback last night for the first time. I am using the AJE front suspension setup, after some trimming to the towers it fits. Don't mind the dust/grime on the car. I just got done installing a new firewall and one piece floor. Things get a little dirty when you are doing that stuff and griding down welds.
The alternator fits with the stock frame rail/front aprons with some room to spare.
Last thing yesterday I bolted the T56 on to the motor (to check for trans tunnel clearance/shifter location).
The 03 Motor won't fit with the shock towers (and stock upper control arms) with the stock alternator setup on the 03. If you were to relocate the alternator it might though (as it would be basically the same setup as a non 03 which many guys have put in and still used the stock suspension).
With my motor I am going to be using the stock oil pan off of the 03, the only thing that needs to be relocated is the oil filter (the stock 03 stuff will hit the frame rail).
I am very close to fitting the motor under the stock hood. I think if I lower it approximately 3/8" it will clear without problems. The IAC is the only thing hitting last night.
The alternator fits with the stock frame rail/front aprons with some room to spare.
Last thing yesterday I bolted the T56 on to the motor (to check for trans tunnel clearance/shifter location).
The 03 Motor won't fit with the shock towers (and stock upper control arms) with the stock alternator setup on the 03. If you were to relocate the alternator it might though (as it would be basically the same setup as a non 03 which many guys have put in and still used the stock suspension).
With my motor I am going to be using the stock oil pan off of the 03, the only thing that needs to be relocated is the oil filter (the stock 03 stuff will hit the frame rail).
I am very close to fitting the motor under the stock hood. I think if I lower it approximately 3/8" it will clear without problems. The IAC is the only thing hitting last night.
Last edited by tchapma1; 02-04-2009 at 08:01 AM.
#13
You can find a lower profile IAC housing. This will be an issue with the hood closing. I have about 1/4" clearence when my hood is closed all the way from the IAC to the hood. I actually machined a wedge to lower the angle of the air neck thus lowering the IAC about an inch so that it would fit. The alternator can be moved foward and in but will require another pulley. I was lucky wnough to find the last one of a special run made just for this purpose. I have three belts on my 5.4 and I designed my own pulley setup (the belts can be changed on the side of the road). This will help clear the frame rail. Also the oil filter/coolent hoses may need to be remote mounted. They are speciality companies that make these. You may not see all these problems that I did with a 4.6, but the 5.4 is a bigger beast and I had to use adaptor plates which raised the supercharger even higher. If I was donig the same conversion again, I would opt for a M2 front suspension in a second. "Rod and Custom" can notch the cross member so that it will aid in the oil pan fitting. ALso the open area that is created by removing the towers is a great access point to get to things like the headers and such. This type of conversion is not for the timid and will reqiure great skills. But once done, they are VERY fast and fun to drive.
#14
#15
Thanks for the responses I have been looking into the mustang II kit , the TCI kit and the rss kit.. THe guy from rss states that the strength of the front is compromised with the towers removed . With no replacement bracing to the fire wall. He claims he has seen the cars bend a little at the fire wall since the rear wants to push up and the front wants to go down. Is this right? RSS also claims that they have put a 54. 32 valve in with there notching kit .. but they declined to comment on how much additional fabrication was involved.
My dilema is that I want real power to the wheel but a mild Cam . And I believe the only way I can get that is with a Mod motor.
Any suggestions or preferences on the front end suspension or the engine choice.. remeber mild cam
Thanks
My dilema is that I want real power to the wheel but a mild Cam . And I believe the only way I can get that is with a Mod motor.
Any suggestions or preferences on the front end suspension or the engine choice.. remeber mild cam
Thanks
#16
I don't know what your budget is on your front suspension but after doing the research I like the TCP setup. Yeah you pay a bit more for it over the MII setup but the nice part is you can buy it a piece at a time if you don't have a wad of cash laying around.
Great looking mod motor pictures to everyone and good luck with all the projects.
Great looking mod motor pictures to everyone and good luck with all the projects.
#17
Thanks for the responses I have been looking into the mustang II kit , the TCI kit and the rss kit.. THe guy from rss states that the strength of the front is compromised with the towers removed . With no replacement bracing to the fire wall. He claims he has seen the cars bend a little at the fire wall since the rear wants to push up and the front wants to go down. Is this right? RSS also claims that they have put a 54. 32 valve in with there notching kit .. but they declined to comment on how much additional fabrication was involved.
My dilema is that I want real power to the wheel but a mild Cam . And I believe the only way I can get that is with a Mod motor.
Any suggestions or preferences on the front end suspension or the engine choice.. remeber mild cam
Thanks
My dilema is that I want real power to the wheel but a mild Cam . And I believe the only way I can get that is with a Mod motor.
Any suggestions or preferences on the front end suspension or the engine choice.. remeber mild cam
Thanks
Just for a 351 your looking at 800 for a properly machined block 2-3k w/machining if your making 500+ and need to use a dart-world block, 1500 for AFR heads, 5-600 for roller cam and lifters, 2-3k for a balanced rotating assembly (something worth a crap not eagle crank, rods, and cheapo forged pistons), so right there your at 5k just for the long block assembly, close to 8k for turn-key using good quality parts. I would say a hyd. roller cam around .550" lift and 270 seat duration would be a pretty mild but wild grind that would give you more than enough on the street.
So at minimum 8k you can run a well built but streetable 351 w/stock suspension, probably around 10-12k for a mod motor and trans and new front suspension.
#18
If your gonna have a high powered car sub frame connectors are a must and you can do a lot of bracing to the front shock towers you weld it in tho.Most people i seen that used a mustang 2 kit had 2 braces arched from the front of the frame rails back to the firewall.I have heard some older people tell me the reason for the export brace is when they first tried to load mustangs in a ship with a crane they folded in half.I don't know how true that is but it does kinda make since to me.If i had the money to blow id run a full frame there is two companies that make them.
#19
Thanks for the advice
Fatman Fab makes a total front clip that is tubular that fits a mod motor. Comes complete with suspension and brakes. I think I will go with this package. THanks again for all the advice . I will try to post a progress build as I go
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