new paint blistering (help)
02-14-2009, 10:09 AM
#21
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
Ok, just read your last post, the "blistering" is happening even before the base gets dry. You for SURE are having surface contamination issues. If you are cleaning everything up well then your heater (unless it is elec) might be a big problem.
The part that sucks is that primers and such are not a susceptible to fish eyes as paint and more so clear. Often, surface contamination will not effect primer much but when such contaminants are painted over they don't stay covered, they will "leach" to the surface to wreak havoc in the finishing stages of the process.
You should invest in a cleaning solvent to get things as clean as possible. Last paint job I used DuPont "Final Clean" with very good results. Thinner or reducer WILL NOT work as well as a dedicated cleaner.
The part that sucks is that primers and such are not a susceptible to fish eyes as paint and more so clear. Often, surface contamination will not effect primer much but when such contaminants are painted over they don't stay covered, they will "leach" to the surface to wreak havoc in the finishing stages of the process.
You should invest in a cleaning solvent to get things as clean as possible. Last paint job I used DuPont "Final Clean" with very good results. Thinner or reducer WILL NOT work as well as a dedicated cleaner.
02-14-2009, 10:13 AM
#22
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver Wa
Posts: 1,099
I dont like to use my DA or my air powered long board because they tend to fling the pneumatic lube on my panels. I have actually quite putting lube in those two tools just because of the spray. replacing the tool is cheaper than the paint.
02-14-2009, 10:18 AM
#23
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
It does not matter WHEN you used the heater so long as the car was in the same room as the heater, deposits are not only possible but PROBABLE.
While propane is certainly cleaner than kerosene or diesel, I am sure that every time you light the bastard some hydrocarbons are deposited into the air. If you can smell the heater, (even if you can't smell it) there is unburned gas in the air, these molecules will be attracted to the fresh dry primer and contaminate the surface whether you are painting at the moment or not.
Even a propane heater is dirty until it gets good and hot. Additionally, I can almost see you lighting up the heater right after the air in the garage clears up from spraying....
While propane is certainly cleaner than kerosene or diesel, I am sure that every time you light the bastard some hydrocarbons are deposited into the air. If you can smell the heater, (even if you can't smell it) there is unburned gas in the air, these molecules will be attracted to the fresh dry primer and contaminate the surface whether you are painting at the moment or not.
Even a propane heater is dirty until it gets good and hot. Additionally, I can almost see you lighting up the heater right after the air in the garage clears up from spraying....
02-14-2009, 10:29 AM
#24
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 616
Dead on, yes i have. but i ran out of gas so i have not used the heater for 4 days, that's how long i have been chasing my tail over this. I will keep that in mind for the future. Thanks
The minor blistering now, do i deal with it of just clear it and see what happens?
02-14-2009, 10:29 AM
#25
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
Another common problem is sometimes folks will tend to put their hands all over the car depositing oil and other contaminants all over. This can be really problematic in a home garage where a person might eat a greasy pork chop and then come out to the garage to sand the car....
When oils and crap is sanded, it does not really come off, it is ground into the finish.
02-14-2009, 10:38 AM
#26
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
Clean it off... It sucks to have to keep redoing this, but it will get WORSE with the clear.
Clear is very sensitive to surface contamination, way more than the base.
You might try some fisheye eliminator, it is not really "advised" by many professionals, but it will help get you out of a tight spot. I have used it in the past, often more than the "recommended amount"... and I will use it again on certain projects if I need to.
It is best to get the car clean to begin with, but when we miss the boat on this point and are already deep into a refinish, fisheye eliminator is a helpful option.
Clear is very sensitive to surface contamination, way more than the base.
You might try some fisheye eliminator, it is not really "advised" by many professionals, but it will help get you out of a tight spot. I have used it in the past, often more than the "recommended amount"... and I will use it again on certain projects if I need to.
It is best to get the car clean to begin with, but when we miss the boat on this point and are already deep into a refinish, fisheye eliminator is a helpful option.
02-14-2009, 10:44 AM
#28
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 616
i let the primer dry for 24 hours before messing with it, applied the B/C only so far I have to wait till next weekend for clear. as for compatibility all products are PPG and fall inline with manufacturers recommendations
02-14-2009, 10:51 AM
#29
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AR
Posts: 5,469
I am 99% your problem is surface contamination.
While it might be best to not clear till next weekend in order to give you time to fix your issue, why do you HAVE to wait till the following weekend?
You should be able to paint a B/C right away. All B/C paint I have ever used requires the base to be sanded (scuffed) if the clear is applied more than 8 hours after the base, and more to the point, most stuff I have used allowed clearing after the base has flashed for 30 mins.
While it might be best to not clear till next weekend in order to give you time to fix your issue, why do you HAVE to wait till the following weekend?
You should be able to paint a B/C right away. All B/C paint I have ever used requires the base to be sanded (scuffed) if the clear is applied more than 8 hours after the base, and more to the point, most stuff I have used allowed clearing after the base has flashed for 30 mins.