POR 15 , your thoughts
#1
POR 15 , your thoughts
Ive got some heavy surface rust on the upper inside part of the quarter panels of my 70 fastback . I was thinking about spraying it with por 15 . Sound like a good idea ? Is this stuff really any good ?
#2
POR 15 is great stuff. I would knock off the loose stuff and put the POR on. One word of caution, what ever it gets on it stays on when it dries. Wear rubber gloves and a long sleeve shirt. If you are spraying I would even wear goggles and a mask. Also, when you are done, use a piece of plastic wrap between the lid and can otherwise you won't get the lid back off to use it again.
Jeff
Jeff
#3
Works good on light rust and will seal good (good for floor pans and inside doors). If exposed, the sun will eat it over time. The scaley rust needs to be removed before you apply it but not to a clean smooth surface. If you plan to spray another color you need to prime it before it sets up, otherwise nothing will stick. Good ole "Rust-oleum" works good too (if cleaned up first) and can be disolved with stripper later if you decide to teardown and restore. OH YEH, if you get it on you, plan on wearing it for a week or so.
#4
I find Eastwood rust converter a better product. I think people are wowed by POR15 in that when it dries it leaves a super hard, glossy black surface that looks great for the first year or two. This surface is UV sensitive and will breakdown fairly quickly in the sun. That's not bad if you top coat it (which can be difficult) or keep it in the dark. The real problems are that rust can migrate under POR15 (I've seen this happen more than once) and it has a tendancy to flake off if the surface preparation is not perfect. My experience is based on many years of looking for the right rust protection. IMO, Eastwood is not only better, but cheaper.
#6
Not the best product to keep around either.
The shelf life sucks big time. Once open, ambient air will be your enemy.
You have to manage to keep it always full in a container, so you trap minimum air.
PITA!
Also, it will not bond on clean metal and rust flakes have to be removed, not always easy on pitted area difficult to access...
Recoating the next day is a good idea.
If you're gonna spray that stuff, better be **** about cleaning your gun.
This product is not user friendly and way overpriced.
The shelf life sucks big time. Once open, ambient air will be your enemy.
You have to manage to keep it always full in a container, so you trap minimum air.
PITA!
Also, it will not bond on clean metal and rust flakes have to be removed, not always easy on pitted area difficult to access...
Recoating the next day is a good idea.
If you're gonna spray that stuff, better be **** about cleaning your gun.
This product is not user friendly and way overpriced.
#7
I agree with pascal, its great but it will not stick to clean metal. I wire wheeled the entire floor board of my car with a P grinder, and where the rust was, the stuff sticks like hell, but it peels off of the clean metal really easily.
#8
Does anyone know - if you want to apply Por15 inside a frame rail, what's the best way? Spray with some kind of long plastic line with a nozzle on the tip? looking for a long bottle brush to put on the end of a drill motor for cleaning?. Need to go in at least a foot. Any thoughts?
#10
Wire brush the inside the best you can, then vaccum it out.
The way I did my 68 is I used a small brush taped to a paint stick on those hard to get areas.
Everytime I do floor work, I take the opportunity to treat the inside rails with primer with a brush as well, if it's not rusted (rare) or POR15 or equivalent if it's rusted.
The way I did my 68 is I used a small brush taped to a paint stick on those hard to get areas.
Everytime I do floor work, I take the opportunity to treat the inside rails with primer with a brush as well, if it's not rusted (rare) or POR15 or equivalent if it's rusted.
Last edited by pascal; 10-04-2009 at 06:53 PM.