Rudy

I ajusted my valves on my 66 289 today and now they are twice as noisey than when i started. This is the process i used. 1. Pick a cylinder.
2. Bump the motor until the Exhaust valve starts up. Intake is now on base circle.
3. Loosen the intake lock nut.
4. WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax.
5. Twirl intake pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) and tighten the lock nut until you feel the pushrod stop turning. A little practice is all it takes. You will know - it stops right away, unless you are turning it with pliers. This is zero lash.
6. Tighten locknut 1/2~3/4 turn.
7. Bump the motor until the Intake is almost down. Exhaust is now on base circle.
8. Loosen the exhaust lock nut.
9. WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax.
10. Twirl exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) , etc...
11. Tighten locknut 1/2~3/4 turn.
12. Repeat as necessary.

Starfury

The twirl trick is incorrect. You need to check vertical play in the pushrod, by pushing it up and down until all vertical play is gone, then tighten 1/2-3/4 turns.

I like to do both valves on each cylinder at once. Crank the engine until just after the intake valve seats, then do both at once and move on to the next cylinder. Not that your method doesn't work, but I like mine because it's faster

Make sure you do this when everything is warmed up. Give it another shot and see what happens.

groho

besides the oil mess, what's the diff between setting the lash while the motor is running, 1/2 to 3/4 past 0, verses your version, with the motor not running?

kalli

i use the messy way as well.
a thousand times easier and about a gazillion times quicker

go with a warm engine, pull rocker covers
start engine and then one after another
loosen the bolt until it starts ticking, then close it until it stops ticking, then close slowly another 1/4 turn and then another 1/4 turn slowly so you end up 1/2 turn after ticking. Some people use 3/4 turn. just make sure you do all the same.
when you turn the ratchet slowly you can easily turn while valve is closed. so don't jerk it, take your time as otherwise you might stall engine.

job done. wash engine/bay if needed

tips:
when most of your rockers are ticking it's impossible to tell from listening which one is ticking, worse you can't really tell if the one you open starts ticking.
so in that case the best thing to do is to just grab a rocker with index finger and thumb on the side while engine is running. the ones that are loose you can easily wiggle from side to side.
the 'good' ones stay in place. so just tighten the loose ones _before_ you start the adjusting process above so you have no ticking anymore.

a strip of cardboard in each head will catch almost all oil spilling. don't do it without cardboards.

I don't have a picture of it, but basically all spillage is running down on the side where you have the spark plugs.
some people tape a piece of cardboard around the head standing up let's say 3 to 4 inches.
I usually wedge mine on the inside. But now I have rocker covers with holes on top. it's the cleanest solution but i prefer the cardboard still as that will save me time.

it is even simpler as it sounds. but no cardboards -> half your oil on headers engine bay and ground (quite stupid)

Kalli