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how do you remove brazing

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Old 02-21-2009, 08:54 PM
  #1  
groho
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Default how do you remove brazing

Well, finally got off my backside and pulled the lights, panels, and gas tank today on the 66. I've known for awhile the car was hit from the rear, it's just a matter of how bad. Wire brushed the bondo from the seams, and sure enough, looks like it was hit between the filler neck and left light. Gotta replace the rear panel, left side trunk, and left qrtr. The good news...the panels are not expensive. two questions... 1) wasn't brazing an older body repair technique. found some around the left light. 2) is MAP gas hot enough to remove brazing? I realize oxy/acetylene is the norm, but I don't have any sitting around.
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:50 PM
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zmetalmilitia
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You could try the MAPP gas but if not can you grind it off? You're probably going to weld the new panels on right? If so, the brazing isn't really a big issue, unless you are concerned about removing it completely.
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:15 PM
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Gun Jam
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normal brazing temp is around 1350 deg. Its exactly the same thing as soldering it just uses higher temp....because its like soldering it does not melt the base metal.

I dont think mapp gas will work.

You could grind it off which may be difficult.

Your best bet maybe to cut the seam with a dremel and cutoff wheels.

-Gun
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:49 PM
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andrewmp6
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Is it lead or copper? If its lead id leave it there copper can be removed safely.
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:35 AM
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groho
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it looks like a patch was used above and below the rear light, and brazed in place, using copper, where the normal seam is located. The rear corner panel looks good and doesn't appear it's been damaged. I'd like to try to retain it since it's original tooling. Am I wrong to thing it would be a good reference for the rear panel and possibly the quarter panel? If thats the case, I'll simple replace the entire panel, rear and corner and qrtr.
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:33 PM
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pascal
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You can always remove it with the same tool that was required to put it on: Acetylene.
In other words, use a torch to melt it down if you want a clean job.

The factory use those braze points to align body panels before spot welding them for good. That's the only reason they're there.
Nowadays, computers rendered that technique obsolete...
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