alum radiator problem
02-26-2009, 07:29 PM
#12
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northernish Eastish Central Texas
Posts: 3,302
Hows about reading the fact sheet from Red Line. Water Wetter doesn't need to be run with antifreeze if you're in an area that doesn't freeze, and your A/C doesn't freeze up the heater core. It has the noncorrosive properties in and of itself.
I've run waterwetter and distilled water in my AFCO aluminum radiator for the last 5 years and had no corrosion issues.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/21.pdf
I've run waterwetter and distilled water in my AFCO aluminum radiator for the last 5 years and had no corrosion issues.
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/21.pdf
Last edited by JamesW; 02-26-2009 at 07:43 PM.
02-26-2009, 11:06 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 2,505
Ben,
I was looking for one of those in line filters last year. I looked everywhere and found that a company in Australia made them. Are they still available?
I hear there is an anode rod that screws into the drain plug of a radiator.
I was looking for one of those in line filters last year. I looked everywhere and found that a company in Australia made them. Are they still available?
I hear there is an anode rod that screws into the drain plug of a radiator.
03-01-2009, 07:37 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,266
okay...a little more info. I'm paraphrasing this how i understand it (or not!) as i still havent got my head around all the chemistry yet.
1) if you have cast iron, copper and stainless steel together you have the opportunity for electrolysis to take place as these three can set up their own current.
2) if your water quality is not as it should be (ie some disolved salts in the water) then its game on.
James, i cant explain why this has hit my car and not others, but obviously i have the cast iron. There is copper in the temp sender and the radiator filter gauze is stainless steel.
the alum becomes the anode that is eaten away.
the inhibitors in the coolant are not sacrificial anodes but a form a barrier on the metal surfaces. good quality coolants have effective inhibitors. cheaper ones may not. either way coolant needs to be changed out pretty regularly and topped up with coolant/ water mix to maintain the same strength.
magnesium can be used as a sacrificial anode. zinc (which the boaties often use) can not be used.
one last i have to get my head around... I had a stainless steel overflow bottle bolted to the alum radiator frame. wonder if this is part of the problem too???
1) if you have cast iron, copper and stainless steel together you have the opportunity for electrolysis to take place as these three can set up their own current.
2) if your water quality is not as it should be (ie some disolved salts in the water) then its game on.
James, i cant explain why this has hit my car and not others, but obviously i have the cast iron. There is copper in the temp sender and the radiator filter gauze is stainless steel.
the alum becomes the anode that is eaten away.
the inhibitors in the coolant are not sacrificial anodes but a form a barrier on the metal surfaces. good quality coolants have effective inhibitors. cheaper ones may not. either way coolant needs to be changed out pretty regularly and topped up with coolant/ water mix to maintain the same strength.
magnesium can be used as a sacrificial anode. zinc (which the boaties often use) can not be used.
one last i have to get my head around... I had a stainless steel overflow bottle bolted to the alum radiator frame. wonder if this is part of the problem too???
03-02-2009, 12:39 AM
#19
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,266
ok, fair comments
I did a pH test on the mix that came out...10.8. Quite alkaline and not acidic as I expected it would be.
Also, the water wetter spec sheet that James posted showed it should be 8.6.
Im wondering if there's anything else that can make it more alkaline or if that's just a function of the reaction that's been going on in there?
Anyone got any idea what the composition of the white crud might be?
I did a pH test on the mix that came out...10.8. Quite alkaline and not acidic as I expected it would be.
Also, the water wetter spec sheet that James posted showed it should be 8.6.
Im wondering if there's anything else that can make it more alkaline or if that's just a function of the reaction that's been going on in there?
Anyone got any idea what the composition of the white crud might be?