Classic Mustangs (Tech)Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.
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Are you going to have to get a CD recording of a 289 and put speakers under the rear valance to make it sound like a Mustang? Just kidding. I like the project. I agree the EVs do not have to look like cockroaches!
I'm guessing the you may be a few pounds less that a good ole V8. A full gas tank will go over a hundred pounds. The cooling system 30 or 40 lbs. Removint the old battery 40 lbs. Tranny and fluid, another hundred pounds. That in its self is about three hundred pounds. I would like to see some pictures of the cells you plan to use. If done well, it will smoke a V8, and your biggest obstacle is going to be wind resistance. I would consider smoothing up the front (in a tastful way) as this is going to save tons of energy at highway speeds. Also I'm interested in the control system that you plan to use. DC is fairly easy to control compared to AC (its been a while since I've played with them though). Good luck and don't get fried.
You're right, I'm removing a lot of weight, but not that much. I'm still using the tranny (but no clutch) and I'll still have the aux battery -- although I can use a much smaller/lighter one (maybe a motorcycle bat).
Wind resistance will only come into play at highway speeds, and with a 60 mile range, I won't be doing a lot of that. This will mostly be a city car -- enough to take care of about 90% of my daily driving needs.
One of my dreams with this car is to, at some point down the road, add a small generator and make it into a series hybrid. In effect, the same setup as the Chevy Volt. Then I'd have to do something about wind resistance -- probably a grill delete and a belly pan.
The control system is the motor controller you see in the previous post. It's an AC system, which has better efficiency than a DC. The high voltage (most EVs are 120-144V) also adds efficiency. About the only advantage DC has is low-end torque; so all the EV drag racers use it. A DC setup is also much cheaper, so it's still the most common for EVs.
Last edited by sailfish11; 03-02-2009 at 12:30 AM.
There's a picture of the batteries in post 3 -- but they're not installed in the car yet (still manufacturing the battery rack).
A123 is the only US maker of lithium cells -- unfortunately if you're name isn't Chevy they won't talk to you. They have made it very clear they have no interest in selling to individuals. Too bad, I'd have much rather spent my money here, rather than buying from the Chinese....
By the way, here's a shot of the engine, er, motor bay, freshly painted:
I'm a little disappointed that he didn't mask or remove anything before painting -- but I guess that's what I get for having my EV converter do the painting!
Thats going to be a mess when you try to loosen bolts etc. I would have your EV converter stick with his day job
One of the things I thought long and hard about was which gauges to use. My car has the deluxe interior so I had five stock gauges to work with. Obviously I kept the speedo, but the other four 2" gauges were all internal combustion engine (ICE) specific, so I don't need them in my EV.
Here's what I came up with:
I changed the speedo to an electronic one from Siemens VDO. I also got a 2" tach from them. The VDO series works well with EV motors.
From Westach instruments I added a voltmeter for the 12V aux battery, an ammeter (to show how fast I'm pulling amps or pushing them during regenerative braking), and a high-voltage voltmeter for the main battery pack.
Here's what it looks like in the stock bezel:
I think they look pretty good. Not stock, but at least in line with the 60's styling. I'll have to get a new bezel, but I can do that later.
The only thing that might change from this setup, is the high-voltage meter. I'm also going to get a digital multi-meter for some of the other EV data I need to track. I'll put that in the storage compartment of the stock console (so I can hide it by putting the door down).
I haven't decided which multi-meter I'm going to get, but there's one from a company called Metric Mind that's called the EVision. It's crazy expensive ($750) but has some cool features, one of which is an output that would drive the stock fuel gauge. "Full" would be fully charged, and "Empty" would equal 20% charge remaining (which is as low as you want lithium batteries to get). If I can talk myself (and my wife) into buying the EVision then I'll return the high-voltage meter and replace it with the stock fuel gauge.
I've decided I'm going to splurge for the EVision. So now I have to decide if I want to use it to drive the stock fuel gauge. My converter thinks it'll look out of place next to the other new gauges. What do you guys think? I'd probably put it next to the tach on the right side of the cluster -- that way the two similar-looking new gauges would stay together on the left side. One problem with the stock gauge is there's no lens cover -- the stock bezel had a one-piece plastic lens for the whole thing. I can't use that with the aftermarket gauges (which have their own lenses). So I'd have to come up with some way to protect the stock fuel gauge if I go that way.
Another option would be to buy a VDO fuel gauge that would match the type face and style of the tach (and speedo). The VDO gauge is only $25 so it wouldn't be an expensive switch.
I'll probably just use the stock gauge for a while and see how I feel about it, then switch later (to the VDO one) if I need to.
But I'd still be interested in what you guys think!
Last edited by sailfish11; 03-05-2009 at 08:12 AM.
Reason: Added images
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