Which should I build for my '66 - 289 or 302?
#1
Which should I build for my '66 - 289 or 302?
Here's the old '66, which has been in my family since 1969.
Over time I've rebuilt it pretty much through and through, albeit at just a "backyard hack" level. The car runs quite well, and everything works nicely. BUT - it's a six-cylinder car.
Yep, right from the start I chose to keep the original 200-6 in place. Oh, it's been thoroughly rebuilt, and after playing around with a Dagenhame 4-speed for a while, there is a T-5 currently backing it up. I thought that the 200 would do the job, but it's just not cutting it. So, I'm wanting to rebuild and drop in a V-8. Question is, should I go with a 289 or a 302?
My criteria are this: First, I'm not concerned about originality. Instead, I want a motor that is rebuildable with easily obtainable, reasonably-priced parts. Also, while I'm not looking for mega-horsepower, I do want to work with a motor which has decent potential.
I don't know a lot about the differences in the various versions of Ford's small blocks over the years. Surely there must be better or worse years, what with emissions applications, ect. So, I welcome any and all recommendations. Thanks, fellow Mustang enthusiasts.
Over time I've rebuilt it pretty much through and through, albeit at just a "backyard hack" level. The car runs quite well, and everything works nicely. BUT - it's a six-cylinder car.
Yep, right from the start I chose to keep the original 200-6 in place. Oh, it's been thoroughly rebuilt, and after playing around with a Dagenhame 4-speed for a while, there is a T-5 currently backing it up. I thought that the 200 would do the job, but it's just not cutting it. So, I'm wanting to rebuild and drop in a V-8. Question is, should I go with a 289 or a 302?
My criteria are this: First, I'm not concerned about originality. Instead, I want a motor that is rebuildable with easily obtainable, reasonably-priced parts. Also, while I'm not looking for mega-horsepower, I do want to work with a motor which has decent potential.
I don't know a lot about the differences in the various versions of Ford's small blocks over the years. Surely there must be better or worse years, what with emissions applications, ect. So, I welcome any and all recommendations. Thanks, fellow Mustang enthusiasts.
#2
First off, know that you can't simply drop a motor in the car. You also need to upgrade the rest of the car to support the bigger engine. This means new front and rear suspension components (5 lug spindles), new rear end, brakes all the way around (preferably discs up front), and a new engine wiring harness.
If you're ok with that and still want to do it, I'd look for an 87-91 5.0 block. This will get you a roller cam setup to maximize power potential, and at least semi-decent heads to work with. These blocks also came with forged pistons, and quite a few of them had low-tension rings from the factory, so you may not even need to bore out the block (no guarantees, though). Heck, while you're at it, you might even be able to steal the EFI setup out of the car if you want to go that route. Fox body Mustangs and Lincoln Mk VII's make great donors.
If you're ok with that and still want to do it, I'd look for an 87-91 5.0 block. This will get you a roller cam setup to maximize power potential, and at least semi-decent heads to work with. These blocks also came with forged pistons, and quite a few of them had low-tension rings from the factory, so you may not even need to bore out the block (no guarantees, though). Heck, while you're at it, you might even be able to steal the EFI setup out of the car if you want to go that route. Fox body Mustangs and Lincoln Mk VII's make great donors.
#4
Hey, thanks for the prompt response, guys. Excellent info on the 5.0. Interesting that you fellows are particularly in favor of a "modern" engine. I had considered going that route, including EFI, as opposed to rebuilding a vintage 289 or 302.
The point about upgrading the matching componentry is well taken. That is part of the reason I kept the car as a 6-banger, initially. Gotta figure in a radiator while we're at it, too.
I haven't been tromping the auto boneyards for a while now, as I've been concentrating on vintage motorcycles. What is the general availability of 5.0 donors? When I went after the T-5 last year, I came up TOTALLY empty. That is, none of the salvage yards here in NE Ohio had a single one. I was told that everyone is after them. I just got lucky with a friend-of-a-friend deal. Years ago, it was a different world. A friend of mine was doing an early Fox body back in the 1990's, and he harvested lots of 5.0 GT parts from local junkyards. He even scored a 9-inch, WITH disc brakes, from a Lincoln Versails (sp).
About that vintage vs modern thing - I know that there of tons of 5.0 hop-up parts, but what about the old 289's & 302's? Practicality is always a factor (plus, I'm just plain cheap), as I can buy some pretty cool stuff for the six, but the prices are sky high.
The point about upgrading the matching componentry is well taken. That is part of the reason I kept the car as a 6-banger, initially. Gotta figure in a radiator while we're at it, too.
I haven't been tromping the auto boneyards for a while now, as I've been concentrating on vintage motorcycles. What is the general availability of 5.0 donors? When I went after the T-5 last year, I came up TOTALLY empty. That is, none of the salvage yards here in NE Ohio had a single one. I was told that everyone is after them. I just got lucky with a friend-of-a-friend deal. Years ago, it was a different world. A friend of mine was doing an early Fox body back in the 1990's, and he harvested lots of 5.0 GT parts from local junkyards. He even scored a 9-inch, WITH disc brakes, from a Lincoln Versails (sp).
About that vintage vs modern thing - I know that there of tons of 5.0 hop-up parts, but what about the old 289's & 302's? Practicality is always a factor (plus, I'm just plain cheap), as I can buy some pretty cool stuff for the six, but the prices are sky high.
#5
Aside from taller lifter bores and the lack of a boss for your clutch z-bar (which can be solved with an aftermarket bracket), the blocks are essentially identical. Just about anything that will work with a 289/302 will work on the later roller motors. Heads, intake, headers, etc.
It shouldn't be hard to find a 5.0HO motor 85-93 Fox body Mustang/Mercury Capri, and I believe every year of the Lincoln Mk VII. If you can find a 96-97 Explorer with a 5.0, you'll really be set. Those come with GT-40 heads and a good intake (worth $ if you don't use the EFI). 98+ Explorer 5.0's will work for the block, but they come with GT-40P heads that are a PITA to find headers for.
It shouldn't be hard to find a 5.0HO motor 85-93 Fox body Mustang/Mercury Capri, and I believe every year of the Lincoln Mk VII. If you can find a 96-97 Explorer with a 5.0, you'll really be set. Those come with GT-40 heads and a good intake (worth $ if you don't use the EFI). 98+ Explorer 5.0's will work for the block, but they come with GT-40P heads that are a PITA to find headers for.
#7
First off, know that you can't simply drop a motor in the car. You also need to upgrade the rest of the car to support the bigger engine. This means new front and rear suspension components (5 lug spindles), new rear end, brakes all the way around (preferably discs up front), and a new engine wiring harness.
Going with a 289 will cost you more IMO.
#8
Once again, this information is much appreciated. Since we're on the subject, what is the best route to score a 9" rear end, these days? I don't know if I've got to search out vintage 9-inchers, or current stuff in boneyards I'm really out of the loop on what is being used in modern cars. For example, what are they putting in 5.0 & 4.6 Mustangs? Do other applications, such as the above-mentioned Explorers, fit under vintage Mustangs?
#10
Not to shout out another website but the adaptors for the Granada brakes can be found on mustangsteve.com
The Granada rear end is an 8" rear end with a 2.69 rear gear, but it serves its purpose. The Versailles is a 9"(mother of all rear ends) and will cost about ~$1000 if your lucky enough to find one, unless the seller doesnt know what it is.
I hear the 8.8" is very tough too and can be found for much cheaper than the 9"