dugan

Well, lets see, my brake lights stay on..always. As do my instrument cluster lights, and dome light. And now to make things worse it will not shut off...at all. Starts fine, turn the key off and it stays running. This isn't it dieseling as there is NO change in anything when I take the key out.

Are these three different problems, or do you think they are all related? What do you think is causing it?

I'm wondering if it isn't just time to re-do all the wiring, I hope not though, not looking forward to that.

kalli

what year are we talking?

the first 2 might be related as you can read in the other post where JamesW says: the only common thing between cluster and brake lights are the headlights switch.

I'd go down the following route:

a) disconnect the brakelight switch. the brake lights should go off. if that's the case then check if the switch is just not set properly to pedal. i it is replace the switch
b) make sure it actually is brake lights and not normal lights. in 64-66 they are easily confused as it's the same bulb.
c) as for your car running on.
If the key is out and it's not dieseling but running as if ignition was still on, then check if you have 12V+ (or 8V+) on the ignition coil+ when the key is out. This is what seems to happen.
If this is the case be careful not to fry the coil. this happens regularly if you have 'old-style' ignition system whith contact breakers. when you leave key in ignition (engine not running) this might fry the coil.
If you have 12V or 8V+ measured from coil+ to battery- then the first thing is to check if there are several cables attached to the coil and where are they going.

Kalli

JamesW

Headlight switch needs replacing

dugan

It is a 67.
I forgot to mention, it doesn't have the original points dist. It has been upgraded with an HEI distributor. And the original resistor ignition wire has been replaced as it needs 12v.
There is no additional wires running off of the coil going to anything else.

I will check everything you have said though, and thanks JamesW just after posting this I came across the thread about the headlight switch.

dugan

Although I already figured, everything in the trunk is connected, and grounded. It is the brake lights for sure and not the tail lights (although 67 still uses same bulb. They are not getting any brighter when the peal is pressed)

So I am assuming it IS my headlight switch?

IF so what is causing my car to stay running?
Could it be something with the HEI?

I was thinking it may be the ignition switch bad as well?
I am a complete novice when it comes to wiring/electrical.

jlg2002

If its the tail lights on, its a problem in the light switch, if its brake lights on, its a problem with the brake pedal switch or it's installation. For the brake lights, go down to the pedal and disconnect the switch, if the lights go out, stop and replace/confirm the installation of the brake switch. If they stay on, disconnect the neg batt term and then disconnect the light switch from the plug (it may be easier to pull the entire switch out of the dash to access it). Re-connect the neg batt term and if the lights are still on you have a short in you wiring somewhere, either tail lights or stop lights circuits.
If you can't turn the engine off with the key, it's most likely the ign switch or the starter relay (I terminal is always hot) or a wiring short in the car go for the most obvious first. Depending on how your HEI is wired they usually use a switched source for 12V so it's unlikely its the HEI unit.
JLG

bodyputtyless

The clue is "how bright are the lights"? If the brake/tail lights and dash are just dimly lit, then the problem is an insufficent ground. The electrical circuit in your car is finding and using the first ground it can find. The filaments in light bulbs that are in circuits that are complete can and will become the ground route. In fact the high beam filament is used as a ground circuit in many of the cars electrical application. First! Make sure everything, and I mean everything that has been "removed" or taken off the car has been placed back on. I mean things like bumpers, and light housings. I went through this same thing for about a month until I realized I need to have my bumpers attached to the car in order for the proper ground to be in the circuit. Your car "running" tells me that possibly the main ground is not complete in the circuit. When you shut the car off, the motor circuit is grounded out. If there is no ground circuit the car won't shut down. Likewise, the same ground circuit appears to be interupted, and your dash and tail/brake lights are being used by other circuits as the path to ground. This explains why they are on when not called for. This is a simple problem, that takes some effort to find. BTW, since you messed around with the distributor, I would suggest making sure you have not crossed, or failed to connect wires. make sure the ground path has a clear shot to real metal.

dugan

Thanks. Some things for me to start checking out tomorrow.

I am certain it is not with a wire on the dist. as there is only one wire on the dist. to hook up.