Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

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Old 03-28-2009, 10:06 AM
  #21  
Norm Peterson
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stangtjk hit it pretty close with respect to me pointing out the sort of reception that a highly nontraditional build might attract.

Originally Posted by mitzutuner
i may have taken what you said the wrong way but it seems like you dont want me on this forum because i want to build my car as a show car, shop demo car and sound quality competiton car, so im building it not in mind of performance, im not drag racing the car, im not building a road race mustang, and im not building a car that i will drive every single day,
Now that we have a somewhat more complete description of where you're coming from out of the way . . .

yes it will have big brake kit,
That goes a long ways toward redeeming the choice of big wheels, as it means there is a functional reason for their choice.

In contrast, 20+ inchers just slapped on fifteen year old Civics or 24's on SUV's look like they completely forgot to re-install the brakes - to me as an engineer and as one who drives pretty hard much of the time that sort of "big wheels/scrawny brakes look" is just plain wrong even after you get past the proportions thing.

i have the motor in mind and a turbo kit for it in mind too, so it will have some qualitys of the other types of car builds and yes i will drive the car to most of the shows
I've been following the engine thread. Let's just say that I'm closer to traditional 1940's-1950's hotrodding approaches and a good bit more liberal about powertrain swapping than you'd guess.

if i am not welcome here to express my ideas and try to get help with some of the ideas and concepts i have then i will go somewhere else, i have had a couple people act like since i am building this way that i shouldnt be on here,
I'm afraid that concept cuts both ways. Thoughtful criticism has just as much place here as does the introduction of new ideas. Or the discussion of more traditional efforts, for that matter.

I do hope that you got past the things I said I didn't care for, at least long enough to see the technical help anyway.


but i have come from the car show, car scene background where everyone acts as a family and even though we may not build our cars the same way we still respect the way they built their car because at the end of the day it is their car and as long as they are happy with it thats what matters but going and helping each other out is what i have been around. im just here wanting to talk with other mustang guys (and girls) that have a love for cars the same as i do, i dont go go and diss anyone on here for wanting to build a complete restoration car or diss anyone for buildign their car certain ways, but like i said i may have taken it the wrong way but since i have been on here i havent felt really welcome by most people on here, a couple of people have been friendly on here but some havent, or at least seemed that way
Being a member on any of these internet forums is just like being in a club, except that there isn't much face-to-face. With only a keyboard for communication it takes more time to establish yourself, to understand where other members are coming from, and generally get a "feel" for the place. And it takes time for existing members to pick up on your personality. Right now, you're the new kid on the block. You may very well influence some change eventually, maybe you'll even mention something I'll use. Just don't expect change to happen overnight.

Stick around and enjoy the ride.

One other thing - maybe you should be thanking your lucky stars that some guy who went by the handle "Soaring" isn't still around.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 03-28-2009 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:36 PM
  #22  
mitzutuner
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ok awesome, thank you for the good information in the last post, i did some thinking and researching you could say on the wheels on a 66 coupe, i found that 17" are do-able but not reccomended, and that 16"s have the best look, but i am also following that as to be a restoration original build in mind, and the said 17"s may scrub the wheel well and fender, depending on the tires setup, but since i am going air on this and setting in down at shows and up while driving, so in other words i know it wont go higher than factory but it wont have the same effect as lowering the car with springs that are constantly low and would scrub, with that said i am going for the wheel tucked in the wheel well look like the pics i posted, but also i really really want the foose nitrous wheels on it, but i will be honest guys, i own a shop, i run a business here but things like that really confuse me unless i really study about it and get a understanding of it, i have worked on my last build, i mean my last personal car build was the 97 eclipse and everything is different from building it and building this, and i realize that even before i started, but i am a car audio guy, and compete in car audio, and can work out about anything to do with that portion or wiring portion of things, but like i said the wheel thing trying to see if it will work or how to make it work on a car that it is not designed for just makes me want to consult someone, and i have looked at the specs of the mustang wheels and the foose wheels and it looks do-able but knowing what company sells the parts i need is where i really need you guys help, and with all of that said and with my new found knowledgeof the wheel sizes and fitment, what would you guys reccomend based on the show car tucked under when set down but still be driveable? im thinking between 16" and 18" and only reason i say 18 is maybe with some work on the wheel well and fenders it may work??? i dunno, and i will be using the eleanor kit on the car if that helps any
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Old 03-28-2009, 03:08 PM
  #23  
stangtjk
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You can run 18's without any modifications if you have the right backspacing and tires. But since you want to drop it down low you'll have to mini tub the rear end.

Last edited by stangtjk; 03-28-2009 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 08:24 PM
  #24  
65rangoon
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heres my thing about the wheels, if you are going to be doing all this work to the suspension & frame anyways to slam the car, whats it to you if you have to shorten the rear or flare the fenders?

theres a chart floating around that will show you the wheel size you can do but its really only up to 18x10 with some rolling and pending the backspacing of the wheel.

if you shorten the rear and flare the fenders you can fit whatever wheel you want under the fender. the front will be a little harder as youll really only be able to flare the fenders but then again you would probably stager the wheels anyway so the fronts wouldnt be as wide as the rears and may a little smaller in diamter.

with it being a unibody car you wont really be able to do a body drop. you can change out the rear leafs or put the axle on the top side like some truck guys do when they drop em but its not the best idea.

front end you can get drops to lower it a bit.

the main issue youre going to have is slamming a mustang is not main stream so you are not going to have an abundance of parts like you would if you were slamming an S10 truck.

i personally think it would be pretty badass looking if done right. This site is filled with a lot of purist (as would any mustang site though). you see more GM's sitting lower then you do Fords it seems.

My car will never see any crazy stuff done ot it but its 90% original and been in the family since 72. had i bought the car and didnt know the history and it had no centimental value, i would love to do a crazy restomod
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:02 PM
  #25  
andrewmp6
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If you want air bags for it http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fsws-fd.html http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html a 18 will fit fine but if you want to slam it and tuck up the wheels the front won't go that low since there is not much wheel wells on these cars.The rear http://www.autoworksparts.com/wheel_tub_kit.htm with those wheel tubs you can tuck some big wheels but might have to shorten the axle tho.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:19 PM
  #26  
stangtjk
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I'm not in to the whole drag racing thing so don't know much about shortening the rear end. At what point would it really be necessary? I would think that you could just run a higher offset rather than shorten the rear but I'm sure there is a breaking point that.
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Old 03-29-2009, 02:41 AM
  #27  
mitzutuner
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yeah i have seen that site before, but looking at that, it would only do the front, for $2500 with no hardware or compressor or switches, but the $6000 kit from air ride technologies, which is who makes the kit that is listed there, has front, rear, compressor, digital control and pressure sensors that warn you if the air pressure is getting too low, by the time i spend $2500 on just the front from that other site then spend more on compressor and all the hardware it seems to add up to over 6k and not even getting the rear, so maybe that is a good kit from air ride technologies.
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 65rangoon
heres my thing about the wheels, if you are going to be doing all this work to the suspension & frame anyways to slam the car, whats it to you if you have to shorten the rear or flare the fenders?

theres a chart floating around that will show you the wheel size you can do but its really only up to 18x10 with some rolling and pending the backspacing of the wheel.

if you shorten the rear and flare the fenders you can fit whatever wheel you want under the fender. the front will be a little harder as youll really only be able to flare the fenders but then again you would probably stager the wheels anyway so the fronts wouldnt be as wide as the rears and may a little smaller in diamter.

with it being a unibody car you wont really be able to do a body drop. you can change out the rear leafs or put the axle on the top side like some truck guys do when they drop em but its not the best idea.

front end you can get drops to lower it a bit.

the main issue youre going to have is slamming a mustang is not main stream so you are not going to have an abundance of parts like you would if you were slamming an S10 truck.

i personally think it would be pretty badass looking if done right. This site is filled with a lot of purist (as would any mustang site though). you see more GM's sitting lower then you do Fords it seems.

My car will never see any crazy stuff done ot it but its 90% original and been in the family since 72. had i bought the car and didnt know the history and it had no centimental value, i would love to do a crazy restomod
i never said that it would be a problem to shorten the rear or flare the fenders, i want to do that anyway, my ideas where to cut out the wheel well and just build a new one back that was deeper, and since i am fiberglassing the inside of the trunk u will never see any of it from looking in the trunk, that will give me the extra room if needed when i set it down, and shortening the rear i have never done or know how to go about doing it but i am up to doing anything, i have already done alot so far and havent even really started good on the build, so i dont mind if i could get some info on it.

and i was thinking maybe 20 in rear and 19 in front? maybe 18 front? i want to do the wheels like that i think so the rear will have the big wheel tucked and the front still be driveable but still have the visual effect that it is not out of place

i have practically dropped the body drop term and idea, i didnt know a good way to word what i was trying to do at the time and like i said i have come from the newer style car show crowd.

and when you said that about change out the leaf springs, and so everyone is clear on the air ride setup i am wanting to do here is a direct link. http://www.ridetech.com/products/For...1323-2447.html and i may be understanding this totally wrong but doesnt that do away with the it all (leaf spring setup) and take its place? and for eveyone wondering that is the $6000 kit i am looking at in case some people were thinking it was a bad price or anything the way it looks it really isent that bad in comparison to some of these other prices

and the main reason i want a good low mustang is because it isent main stream, not everyone is doing it, and like ive said with this being my shop demo car it will be good in my opinion to show people what we can do even if it isent mainstream or common that we can build cars that isent what people are normally doing or an everyday install

and the main reason i am consulting all of you guys so it does look right, i know i am doing things alot different in some areas but still getting advice from some of you that know what might look right and what wont, and i know there are enthusiast (spelling?) that will be bothered by some of the ideas i have, some i may not ever even mention until i start posting pics up and someone catches what i did. but i like being different

i was trying to follow your post and comment each statement the best i could. hopefully we can all get a discussion going about this. but now with all of that said will my foose wheels idea work? i found them in 18's too but there are 20's, maybe a 20' 18' setup? or would it look off? or what would you guys reccomend?

also on a another question is there any way to change the titile name where it shows up different on the thread list? i have been having some people just see body drop and they dont look or they come on here and not read what we have disscussed and say body dropping is not possible on a unibody, lol i understand that now but i would like to change it something that tells others that this thread has evolved into talking about alot of other topics as well. anyone know how to do that?
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:06 AM
  #29  
rmodel65
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how about you buy the air ride setup, ill install it in my car then if you like the look you can buy yourself one







ill be looking forward to the cars build. i think you should go steal this guys motor :P lol
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...2-3-turbo.html
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:37 AM
  #30  
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that is a nice build he has setup in there, and of course i do love turbos lol
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