Look what I found under my valve cover!!!!
03-29-2009, 07:37 AM
#21
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chandler, Az
Posts: 1,080
Along with the rust, I'd be willing to bet all the seals have dried out and cracked. Means you'll probably have some bad leaks at places like the front and rear main seals. The other thing you havent thought about is the trans. Auto or stick?
03-29-2009, 08:02 AM
#22
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 367
It's a 3 speed manual.
Fake- I'll PM you. CT is pretty far away, but it might be the best thing.
Lots of decisions...
I've got a baby on the way in about 3 weeks, so this project might slow down a bit. (or not
)
Fake- I'll PM you. CT is pretty far away, but it might be the best thing.
Lots of decisions...
I've got a baby on the way in about 3 weeks, so this project might slow down a bit. (or not
)
03-29-2009, 08:23 AM
#24
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 367
I've been through it twice already as well. I've got a 9 year old and a 4 year old. I've managed to work out some free time for the car, and time to do carpentry on the side to earn money for the car. There will be a definite pause, but I'm motivated. 
03-29-2009, 09:27 AM
#26
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
03-29-2009, 10:45 AM
#27
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Citrus County, FL
Posts: 8,007
again, a simple valve job will ensure the head is ready to go and you'll have new valve seals on there. if the cylinders look ok then you can slap it back on and go.
if the cylinders have light rust, you can always pull the pistons and run a dingle ball hone down in each cylinder. a new set of rings and bearings along with a gasket set will not break the bank, and if you have the pan off already while the motor is still in the car that means you can do all of this without pulling the motor.
in all honesty, you could do everything i mentioned above for less than 500 bucks even counting carb cleaner, permatex, oil and filter, etc.
if the cylinders have light rust, you can always pull the pistons and run a dingle ball hone down in each cylinder. a new set of rings and bearings along with a gasket set will not break the bank, and if you have the pan off already while the motor is still in the car that means you can do all of this without pulling the motor.
in all honesty, you could do everything i mentioned above for less than 500 bucks even counting carb cleaner, permatex, oil and filter, etc.
03-29-2009, 04:02 PM
#28
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 367
Okay, to rebuild a 6 cylinder is more costly than it is worth unless you are doing a complete concourse restoration. What you are looking at is oil sludge for the most part. The rust is from moisture in the oil and the dampness of a barn over 18 years. Scub it down with a good solvent wash all that crap out of there and let it fall into the pan. Use plenty of solvent and run it thorugh the oil drain back openings until you are sure it is out. Remove the pan, scrub the rest of the crap out, rinsing well and replace the pan and gasket. Fill it with a good quality oil. Shoot two good squirts of Mystery Oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand several revolutions. Change the plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor and wires. Crank it with the starter and listen for and strange noises. Finally, start it up and let it run at various RPM until it is warm.
I've already got new Ignitor/Flamethrower ignition/coil, and replaced all wires and plugs. Carb has been rebuilt. I looked down the plug holes with a light and it was nice and shiny in there (from what I could see) I'm gonna do the above, and see what happens. Then I'm gonna start looking for a new engine to put in there! I'll keep you posted with pics!
03-29-2009, 09:46 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 367
So I just spent about an hour or so with a roll of paper towels and a screwdriver wiping down the top of the head, around the springs, rods etc. I got a bunch of crud out, and the springs are red, not from rust, but because that is what color they are! The rust was only on the surface.
Next I will flush with some solvent. Any ideas about what solvent would be best here? Then once I've rinsed it all out and flushed it into the pan, I'll drain it and pull the pan and clean it. (I just did this about a month ago) Then everything goes back on and new oil goes in. Seems like a lot for an engine that might not run, but I don't want to give up on it before I try to crank it. I've got more time than money.
I'm thinking about starting a poll for what will happen when I try to start it. Will it run? For how long?
Next I will flush with some solvent. Any ideas about what solvent would be best here? Then once I've rinsed it all out and flushed it into the pan, I'll drain it and pull the pan and clean it. (I just did this about a month ago
) Then everything goes back on and new oil goes in. Seems like a lot for an engine that might not run, but I don't want to give up on it before I try to crank it. I've got more time than money.I'm thinking about starting a poll for what will happen when I try to start it. Will it run? For how long?
03-29-2009, 10:00 PM
#30
1st Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 117
JHP,
If you can't afford a true rebuild right now, you COULD keep your eyes open for a local 200 that is running that someone is dumping to due to a V8 swap. Pick it up for a few hundred, keep yours and rebuild it later for originality. This is one of the huge bonuses of having a straight 6, you can buy spare engines for far less than a rebuild that are acutally in decent shape.
I have an excellent contact in Bedford VA (near Roanoke kind of) that would know of or have a good 200 laying around. PM if you want his info. (Which you may just want for parts etc, he has a ton of stuff).
If you can't afford a true rebuild right now, you COULD keep your eyes open for a local 200 that is running that someone is dumping to due to a V8 swap. Pick it up for a few hundred, keep yours and rebuild it later for originality. This is one of the huge bonuses of having a straight 6, you can buy spare engines for far less than a rebuild that are acutally in decent shape.
I have an excellent contact in Bedford VA (near Roanoke kind of) that would know of or have a good 200 laying around. PM if you want his info. (Which you may just want for parts etc, he has a ton of stuff).