tx65coupe

I have upgraded from the factory drum brakes on my 65 Mustang. It now has Granada front brakes and Lincoln Versailles rear brakes. It has a dual reservior master cylinder and an SSBC adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. All parts are new. I have been using a vacuum pump to attempt to bleed the brakes. So far when I push the pedal it goes to the floor. Does anyone have any tips?

kalli

it's either the bled properly or you are loosing fluid somewhere.
i'd bleed the mastercylinder and then use the conventional menhod (pumping) to bleed it. 've used vacuum twice, but was never really happy with it. as well you have to nmake sure to bleed in this order:
longest line wheel to shortest. means rear right, then rear left, front right, front left

When you are getting pressure back, step on the pedal and hold it for a few minutes to see if it keeps pressure. if it moves over time (toward floor) when holding a constant pressure with the foot then you are leaking

tx65coupe

I bench bled the master cylinder before installing it. I also used a large syringe and filled the new lines with fluid before installing the MC. I do not see any evidence of any fluid leaking. I think there is still a bunch of air in the system. When pushing the pedal there is no resistance and it goes all the way down.

Good point about the procedure for right rear to front left. That is what I did.

I rebuilt almost the entire brake system on my 95 F150 and bled them the same way. Everything went fine with that brake bleeding job.

I can't figure out why it won't this time. I am going to try to bleed them some more and see what happens.

Does anyone know if Autozone, Advance, Orielly etc offers one of those bleeder setups that goes on the master cylinder in their loaner tool program?

tx65coupe

We bench bled the master cylinder but it did not work very well.

When we bench bled it not much came out of the primary bowl on a single plunger stroke. The secondary bowl worked better. Is it common for these types of master cylinders to work like this.

We bought the master cylinder from CJ Pony Parts and it was supposed to be for a 65-66 disc brake conversion and was supposed to look like this.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

If the link doesn't work the CJ part number is DBC2

What we got was one that looks like this.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

This part number is BMC23

fakesnakes

Your links don't work for me. Are you sure the calipers are on the right side and the bleeders in the right position? Is this a power set up? Are any of your lines higher than the mc? Have you tried the old way without the vacuum (open, press, close, release)? Can you post pictures of the mc and front and rear calipers?

This can not be a difficult problem, as brake systems are pretty straight forward.

JamesW

Agree, check to make sure your calipers aren't on the wrong sides. The bleeder hold must be the highest point on the caliper.

I'm betting it's the MC not getting fully bend bled

tx65coupe

It is not power brakes so there is not a booster.

The calipers are in the correct locations.

None of the lines are higher than the MC.

We removed the MC and bench bled it agian and ran a lot of fluid through it this time. Then I used the vacuum pump again. Now the pedal will build up pressure if you pump it 2-3 times.

We are going to do the 2 person method later today.

The MC looks like this

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=1378F+01

fakesnakes

Sorry for the potentially silly questions, but I have to ask them. Did you run the front brakes to the rear port and the rear brakes to the front port on the mc?

If all else fails, I bought this set up about 10 years ago:



It has a set of adapters that attach to the top of the mc. You fill the tank with clean brake fluid, and connect an air line to a tire setting the pressure regulator to 15 pounds:



I never bench bleed the mc and I can bleed the brakes in about 1/2 hour by myself (the pictures are from my GT40). It was about $95 10 years ago.

This is a slightly different approach, but would work just as well:

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...ount2=92170357

tx65coupe

We bled the brakes the 2 person way and there was no more obvious air coming out. We went around the car 3 times.

It seems like the pedal still goes down too far though. Should it go down farther than it did with the old single resivior master cylinder and 4 wheel drum setup? It goes down to only a few inches above the floor.

Since I don't have the 302 installed yet, I can't drive it to see how well the brakes work.

That looks like an interesting bleeder setup. I may consider that if I can't get them bled any better.

fakesnakes

And the brake connections to the mc (front to back and back to front)?