Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

how to feed a fuel pump ???

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Old 04-07-2009, 10:01 AM
  #21  
Gary H
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The holleys are really loud, the mallory's are real quiet. I had crappy luck with holleys leaking. I really liked the mallory I had, it sat for several years under the car with some gas in it that got old and gummed it up. Ran some power to it and it still worked, took a few minutes to loosen up but it worked fine then. I have an A2000 now but havent used it yet.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:14 AM
  #22  
urban_cowboy
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Wow, a A2000 is over 350gph! Impressive. I assume that is for your 8sec 68 coupe. I am still not quite there yet .

My BG was MUCH louder than my current Holley Black, but it never really worked right. I had terrible problems with the bypass return sticking. After it left me stranded three times with no fuel pressure, I ripped it out and threw a Holley in. It could be quieter, but is not bad compared to the BG.

It looks like Holley also makes a Gerotor Fuel pump 150gph. The Holley Black is a vane rotor.

Just curious how these all compare. So are Gerotor pumps quieter?
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:25 AM
  #23  
kalli
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image stolen from wiki. can't think how this setup can make much of a noise:

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Old 04-07-2009, 10:25 AM
  #24  
kalli
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double post

Last edited by kalli; 04-07-2009 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:06 PM
  #25  
Adrenolin
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Interesting reading here and on time. Anyone have any comments on the Edelbrock 1791 pump? I'm guessing its of the Vane design and not Gerotor though I cant find anything on it. It makes more sense that a pump creates a suction initially to assist in priming the pump then gravity alone.

I'm now looking at the Mallory 4110 fuel pump & either the inline Mallory 3175 filter or canister Mallory 3140 filter. Are the canisters better than the inline filters? Not quite sure where I'll mount all this but I'm sure appear once I get under the car and look. Also I know its not required with the 4110 pump but is there any added benefit in adding a regulator such as the Mallory 4207?

Mark.. I noticed yours is actually mounted entirely above the fuel tanks! I understand they create a suction but I thought they would still need to be mounted down lower. I'm impressed that it would pull that high which makes me lean towards the change even more so.

Thanks

Not meaning to hijack here.. just dealing with having to switch to electric at the last minute due to a new pulley system and kind of fumbling around with it.

(Personal Note.. need to remember.. buy a block off plate)
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:36 PM
  #26  
kalli
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i'm actually glad so many people are joining in. I have my pump, so no hijacking here. This way all can learn.
I tyhink the rotor vane is a good system, but only if you have it directly under the tank and it's gravity filled. A tad load though.
The gerotor seems to be able to pull, I was impressed ghow high there were mounted in marks GT. So hadn't i found something local I would have gone for the Mallory as well
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:50 PM
  #27  
Gary H
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The mallory I had was mounted in the middle of the car, it would pull the fuel up over the rear end and to the pump with no probs. Just make sure you have a vent on the tank or gas cap.

urban_cowboy- Yeah, the A2000 is on the 68. Should be enough to feed a 557" BB and the N20 system.. :-) With ports like these It's going to need alot of fuel.
http://www.mysticspeed.com/68chassis/images/32-scj3.jpg

fakesnakes, what heads are on that GT? Tunnel ports? I actually ran across a set of the 302 TP heads years ago, wish I would have got them. At a swap meet... go figure.

Last edited by Gary H; 04-07-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:54 PM
  #28  
urban_cowboy
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Originally Posted by Gary H
urban_cowboy- Yeah, the A2000 is on the 68. Should be enough to feed a 557" BB and the N20 system.. :-) With ports like these It's going to need alot of fuel.
http://www.mysticspeed.com/68chassis/images/32-scj3.jpg
As Wayne & Garth say...Shhwwwing .
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by urban_cowboy
Kalli, I do not mean to hyjack, but I think this plays in nicely.

Fake, in your opinion how do the following fuel pumps rate in both noise and reliability?

1. Holley Black
2. Aeromotive SS
3. Aeromotive A1000
4. Barry Grant BG220
5. Mallory 140
6. Mallory 250

I am always shopping for a better pump. I ran a BG220 without much luck and now run a Holley Black. Also, what is your opinion on return lines? When are they necessary?
Well, here is my view based on some personal experience and that of a couple of friends:

Holley black: I used a Holley red on my 1954 Studebaker with a Chevy 383 stroker (sorry, no pics) and it crapped out after a couple thousand miles. It was loud and the pressure was inconsistent (deadhead regulator, a bypass might have been more consistent). I've never used a black, but have heard it is more reliable, but just as loud. I finally used a Mallory 140 with no further issues.

Aeromotive: I used one of their efi pumps on my Daytona Coupe with stack EFI and a bypass regulator:







I later changed it over to a carb, but kept the same pump with a new regulator that brought the pressure down from 60psi to 7 psi. It was flawless, but the loudest pump I ever used.

Barry Grant: I never personally used one, but have a friend who always tried to convince me they were the best. Problem was, his car was always broken! It wasn't the loudest pump, but it always had issues and he replaced it at least twice. It wasn't as big a deal as it was a drag car only (low 9's).

Mallory 140: By far my favorite pump! The quietest by far, always maintains pressure and is very reliable. I've used it on these cars:







Mallory 250: A good pump, but big! Still relatively quiet, but my engine made so much noise, you could never hear it. It was on my 1941 ****** coupe with a 502 big block Chevy pushing 650HP. This car scared me so much that I sold it!

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Old 04-07-2009, 07:09 PM
  #30  
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Oh, final points. You all know about getting the pump as close to the tank with as much gravity feed as possible. If you can't do that, always look for a gerotor design. Most designs that use it will state so as it is a selling point. If it doesn't say, assume it is a vane or diaphram design. Always isolate the pump from the frame with rubber bushings or mounts. This will reduce the noise significantly. Use a bypass regulator when ever possible. Deadheads almost always allow pressure fluctuations. This is not a real big deal for street driven, moderate performance vehicles, but can be a big deal for a race car and a real big deal if you are using forced induction or nitrous.
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