Cant get new clutch adjusted right. Help!
#1
Cant get new clutch adjusted right. Help!
I am completely lost at what to try next. I bought the car, got it running, took it out once and the clutch went completely out and I had to machine the flywheel.
67 coupe, 289, 4 speed.
**(Feel free to scroll down to last 2 paragraphs if you dont need the background)
So I pulled it all apart, sent the flywheel for machining, bought a new clutch (Dynapack, model something something 0020, it was a complete kit including pressure plate, clutch disc, and throw out bearing.)
Put it all back together and it wouldnt align right, I could shift the car through all the gears fine when it was off, but when the car was on it wouldnt go into a gear properly. It WOULD HOWEVER allow me to push the shifter forward about an inch (roughly 2 inches forward would have been properly into gear), but I could push it about an inch toward any gear and the rear tires would start spinning (4 jackstands) but if I put on the brake it would stall out (with the clutch pushed in fully). So at this point it was stuck in gear and the clutch would not hit the fingers on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch.
We noticed that the adjustment rod had poked through the clutch fork making us lose an inch of adjustment. Pulled it all apart again, welded the clutch fork back up, and put it all back together again.
***As it sits right now, the adjustment rod is adjusted so that the throwout bearing it just about touching the fingers on the clutch, so much so that when I stepped on the clutch it hit the bellhousing (clutch fork, going in the hole in the side) and bent the adjusting rod. Yet it isnt enough to fully disengage the clutch so I cant get out of gear.
I double checked part numbers, and putting both pressure plates (old and new) on the ground the fingers are the same height. I am completely stumped and cant afford a mechanic.
PS. Where can I buy a new adjusting rod?
Thanks guys!
67 coupe, 289, 4 speed.
**(Feel free to scroll down to last 2 paragraphs if you dont need the background)
So I pulled it all apart, sent the flywheel for machining, bought a new clutch (Dynapack, model something something 0020, it was a complete kit including pressure plate, clutch disc, and throw out bearing.)
Put it all back together and it wouldnt align right, I could shift the car through all the gears fine when it was off, but when the car was on it wouldnt go into a gear properly. It WOULD HOWEVER allow me to push the shifter forward about an inch (roughly 2 inches forward would have been properly into gear), but I could push it about an inch toward any gear and the rear tires would start spinning (4 jackstands) but if I put on the brake it would stall out (with the clutch pushed in fully). So at this point it was stuck in gear and the clutch would not hit the fingers on the pressure plate to disengage the clutch.
We noticed that the adjustment rod had poked through the clutch fork making us lose an inch of adjustment. Pulled it all apart again, welded the clutch fork back up, and put it all back together again.
***As it sits right now, the adjustment rod is adjusted so that the throwout bearing it just about touching the fingers on the clutch, so much so that when I stepped on the clutch it hit the bellhousing (clutch fork, going in the hole in the side) and bent the adjusting rod. Yet it isnt enough to fully disengage the clutch so I cant get out of gear.
I double checked part numbers, and putting both pressure plates (old and new) on the ground the fingers are the same height. I am completely stumped and cant afford a mechanic.
PS. Where can I buy a new adjusting rod?
Thanks guys!
#4
Well we have had it apart and back together twice now, both times making sure everything was lined up right. I dont think it could have gone in wrong both times. Not saying that it couldnt happen just seems like there is something else.
Any other thoughts or suggestions? Im all ears.
Oh, and thanks for the reply pony coupe.
Any other thoughts or suggestions? Im all ears.
Oh, and thanks for the reply pony coupe.
#5
There are two clutch linkage adjustments. One is from the z-bar to the clutch fork. I think you have located that one. The other is from the pedal to the z-bar. Have you set that one? Try moving the top linkage out (longer) so there is no play in the pedal before you feel tension from the pressure plate. You may need to shorten the lower linkage some to lengthen the top linkage.
It sure sounds like you are not getting the clutch fork to move enough to allow the throwout bearing to disengage the pressure plate. This happened to me once when my z-bar bent all to ****. I knew what was happening because I got slack in my pedal before I felt the pressure plate resistance.
It sure sounds like you are not getting the clutch fork to move enough to allow the throwout bearing to disengage the pressure plate. This happened to me once when my z-bar bent all to ****. I knew what was happening because I got slack in my pedal before I felt the pressure plate resistance.
#6
There isnt really any play in the clutch pedal, but I will definetely look into that. From what I remember the spring pulled the pedal all the way back up (because I tried lifting it more), and when I stepped on it it was basically going right into use. The Z bar is bent a bit though, should that be replaced?.... Im kind of limited on funds right now but if i need it, i need it.
Also, the clutch fork is at a point where when i stepped on the pedal it hit the bellhousing and stopped itself until the adjusting rod gave and shot sideways like a rocket, bending it up.
Would it make sense that if I backed off the lower adjuster at the fork, then adjusted the top one it would make it so I can clear the bellhousing but pivot more? Damn that would be awesome. I already pulled the tranny twice and am not looking forward to a 3rd lol.
Thanks!!
Also, the clutch fork is at a point where when i stepped on the pedal it hit the bellhousing and stopped itself until the adjusting rod gave and shot sideways like a rocket, bending it up.
Would it make sense that if I backed off the lower adjuster at the fork, then adjusted the top one it would make it so I can clear the bellhousing but pivot more? Damn that would be awesome. I already pulled the tranny twice and am not looking forward to a 3rd lol.
Thanks!!
#7
Are you certain the pressure plate isn't for cable/hydraulic linkages? They require more travel distance to disengage, so with a mechanical linkage you won't be able to move the fork far enough to disengage the clutch.
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junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-28-2015 10:53 AM