Stepman

I normally like to watch (and help when I can) others work through their issues, but today, I figure it is my turn to ask. I had 2 weeks off of work so, I figured I'd pull my motor, clean it up and put some fresh paint on it. It's been a year now since I put my motor in and I figure I got all the bugs and leaks fixed so, why not.

I have a 351W/4spd and my biggest question (yes, I have a few but, will make a new thread for others) is in relation to the clutch.

Does any one else have issues "bending" the equalizer? I have been fighthing this for years. I even made a falcon equalizer work but did it wrong, tearing up the bushings. I bought a new one last year when I put the motor in and it worked beautiful. I also replaced the rest of the linkage and all of the bushings. As time went by though, the pedal kept getting lower, so I would adjust it at the lower rod. I have adjusted it a few times until, eventually, I ran out of adjustment.

After pulling the motor, it appears that the equalizer has bent again. So, now, my question is.....is this normal? Has anyone else had an issue with this? And, is there a fix for it?

Cruzzar

It is not uncommon to bend the equilizer bars on mustangs, especially if you are running a heathly pressure plate (the bars even sometimes bend with stock clutches). I would not think that aftermarket bars are built any heavier than the stock ones. To eliminate future problems I cut some solid stock and welded them to the upper and lower arms. I also made it a full rollerized with sperical bearings instead of the plastic busings and added the roller bearing kit to the clutch pedal assembaly.

Stepman

Wow! I'm impresssed. Can I buy on of those? I forgot to mention, I do have the roller set-up on the pedal. Yours looks different than mine though. Can you give a "how-to"? Does that clear your gear box without problems(dumb question, huh?)


That looks like just what I need though, how do I get one? I like the bottom 1/2 too. Looks like better hedder clearance.

urban_cowboy

I have bent two stock type z bars. Last year, I had a buddy build me one out of 4130 steel, and it tore up after a year. I am not sure what to tell you. Not much will help if you are running a 2400lbs+ pressure plate. Obviously, a stock type pressure plate will be easier on the z bar.

urban_cowboy

Here is the latest one I tore up. Totally tore the tubing below the weld. Sorry the picture is so small. I do not know how to post big pictures like Cruzzar did.

Cruzzar, what is the roller bearing clutch kit?

Cruzzar

Stepman. I have been gone for the last three days so sorry for my not responding. The modifications clear both the stearing column and my FPA headers. The modifications were done as a precaution and probably not a necessity with my car. Let me explain. These are my personal feelings on useing the stock equilizer bar. I know many people are going with hydraulic clutches and are getting rid of the equilizer bar (Z-bar) but there is a fair amount of money in making the upgrade which does works very well. I like to keep things simple and therefore chose to keep the original linkage (nothing will leak from it) and try to improve it somewhat. The key to my keeping the stock equilizer bar is to go with a McLeod twin disk clutch (two disks seperated with a floater). These clutches will handle up to about 800 hp. (I won't have anywhere close to that in my '70FB with a 427W) but only have a 1700 lb. diaphram pressure plate. A stock mustang pressure plate has about 1800 lb. plate and the aftermarket performance pressure plates can have 2400 lb. plates. With a lighter diaphram clutch I hope to reduce the chances of tearing up the equilizer bar especially with the reinforcements that I have added. The clutch that I am runnig is more expensive than a stock or aftermarket one but close to the cost of a hydraulic setup.
The spherical bearings were purchased at a local bearing supply. They are a 3/4" od with a 5/16" id. They need to have someway to lock the outer race to the equilizer bar so they don't rotate and that is why I have added the set screws (see attached pics). I also went wild and cut and threaded my clutch rod and ordered female studded rod ends with zerk fittings. These are 3/8" nf female end with 3/8" nf stud. I hope this helps.

Stepman

I like that set-up. Thanks. I noticed a big improvement (friction wise) by going to the roller pedal assy and would like to see even more by going this direction too. I ended up welding an angle brace to the lower part of the top arm for now. (forgot to take a pic before I put it in the car)

I think I will take your ideas and take it even one step farther. I made one up a while back using a bar from a Falcon which has the upper arm more straight up and down, running on the other side of the steering box. (instead of the big loop) I believe it is a lot stronger design but, I screwed up by cutting the tube to make it fit my motor and the bushings didn't fit right. It was also a lot easier to get in and out and work around too. I'll post some pics of what I come up with but, it'll probably be a while. Right now, I need to get the thing back on the road.