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EXHAUST FUMES KILLING ME......

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Old 05-09-2009, 10:40 PM   #21
fordlvr
 
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Thanks for posting back so quickly. It has an MSD 6A box, MSD Coil, and MSD billett distributor. I haven't changed the plugs or wires in 6 years. the plugs look good though. I am not sure if the timing is exactly accurate, as the balancer that is on it now is not marked correctly. I need to spend a little bit of time and mark it again. I have changed the timing though and it seems to run a bit better. I am not sure if I need to pull the distributor and change some of the advance springs. all of the components are straight from the box. (6 years ago) The rotor looks good as does the cap. everything seats fine on the cap and the wires physically look ok. They are MSD as well. The plugs are NGK V-Power with .35 gap. It was running today and I pulled the PCV valve from the valve cover and stuck my thumb over the end. I'm not sure exactly why I did that, but the car almost died. I'm not sure if that is what is supposed to happen or not. I don't have another coil, but was reading on MSD's website last night about how to check for spark. I know I am getting spark because the car runs fine. if I idle in one spot for very long, there will be wet spots behind it where the gas is shooting from the tailpipes.

I am wondering if I have some rockers that are not set correctly? possibly not closing all the way and allowing gas to escape prior to combustion. Several years ago I cut a hole in the top of an old valve cover. I will throw that on and readjust the valves in the next day or so.

Any specific things that I might target when looking at my ignition system?

Thanks again for any suggestions or comments you may have. I hope we can get this solved and possibly help out CyprusMustang as well.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:01 AM   #22
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I don't care if your car is, as I have said elsewhere, putting out exhaust that smells like fart or flowers. It should not be getting inside the car! Your #1 priority is getting the body sealed so it isn't sucking exhaust into the car. Until you fix this, you are risking bad things happening, such as death.
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:46 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT View Post
I don't care if your car is, as I have said elsewhere, putting out exhaust that smells like fart or flowers. It should not be getting inside the car! Your #1 priority is getting the body sealed so it isn't sucking exhaust into the car. Until you fix this, you are risking bad things happening, such as death.
I have to say bull**** to that....if your car is running "clean" you will not get the smell in the car. I don't care how well you "seal" it, a bad exhaust smell will still find its way into the car.

Sorry.
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:27 PM   #24
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I have to say bull**** to that....if your car is running "clean" you will not get the smell in the car. I don't care how well you "seal" it, a bad exhaust smell will still find its way into the car.

Sorry.
I double bull* you, or is it double-dog?. If your clean-smelling exhaust gets into the car, you will DIE. It's all still carbon monoxide, an odorless gas, and will kill you, just as dead as stinky exhaust. You'll just smell better at the funeral.

Last edited by 2+2GT; 05-10-2009 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:31 PM   #25
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Dudes calm down, I asked a question and needed some advice. What you guys argueing about. Let me tell you this, I have the same issue with my audi, its an 01 and whenever I am stopped at a light with the windows down the smell just comes in. If i have my windows up, no smell comes in. Take in mind this car is not that old and its as tight as tight can get.

can a timing issue cause this? the smell is definately unburnt fuel. what should i do step by step.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:25 PM   #26
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What you guys argueing about. Let me tell you this, I have the same issue with my audi, its an 01 and whenever I am stopped at a light with the windows down the smell just comes in. If i have my windows up, no smell comes in. Take in mind this car is not that old and its as tight as tight can get. Can a timing issue cause this? the smell is definately unburnt fuel. what should i do step by step.
Exactly. Any car can get fumes when not moving, simply by having the wind blow it back at you.

Unless the ignition is cutting out/missing badly, the problem is with the carburetor. Is the choke stuck partly on? Are the idle jets adjusted properly (rich at idle)?. Are the floats set properly (rich while moving)? Oversize jets (rich while moving)? A too-big carb can be non-adjustable, i.e., if you have a 750 double-pumper on a 289 it's never going to tune really well.

Back to the smell- If you are getting fumes in the car while moving, you need to check the trunk lid seal, taillight seals, backup light seals, bumper bracket seals, grommets, plugs, gas tank lip seal, quarter trim seals, etc. Trunk lid is the logical place to start, and easy to check. Slam the lid on a $1 bill, with the end sticking out. If it resists being pulled out, it's OK. If it slides out easily, you have a leak. Work your way around the lid.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:06 PM   #27
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Maybe you are just a stink magnet.. LOL..
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:15 PM   #28
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Exactly. Any car can get fumes when not moving, simply by having the wind blow it back at you.

Unless the ignition is cutting out/missing badly, the problem is with the carburetor. Is the choke stuck partly on? Are the idle jets adjusted properly (rich at idle)?. Are the floats set properly (rich while moving)? Oversize jets (rich while moving)? A too-big carb can be non-adjustable, i.e., if you have a 750 double-pumper on a 289 it's never going to tune really well.

Back to the smell- If you are getting fumes in the car while moving, you need to check the trunk lid seal, taillight seals, backup light seals, bumper bracket seals, grommets, plugs, gas tank lip seal, quarter trim seals, etc. Trunk lid is the logical place to start, and easy to check. Slam the lid on a $1 bill, with the end sticking out. If it resists being pulled out, it's OK. If it slides out easily, you have a leak. Work your way around the lid.
Another way is to do a chalk test.. Get a piece of chalk and run it along the knife edge that bites into the rubber gasket. Close your trunk and then open it up to see where the chalk rubbed off onto the gasket. If you have clean gasket then you have leaks.. Check for a solid line of chalk all the way round the gasket. Thats how we check water tight doors in the Navy.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:17 PM   #29
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dudes, i dont agree with the sealing the car and smells will go away. so in that case since my car is a convertible, its normal for it to wreak as i drive with the roof down?

My car has some problems and I want to figure them out. the hell with the seals, i think the problem is with the electricals or the idle mixtures. Here are the facts:

car starts fine, idles fine and runs OK however at approx 15-20 mph with low rpm's there is some misfire, unless i slam on the pedal, car shakes. Seems as though the car doesnt run fine with low rpm's in low speed.

Also, i noticed that if im stopped and put the car in neutral, and slam on the gas, car will let out a small white cloud of smoke from the tailpipes. Car doesnt smoke while driving, temps are ok and so is oil pressure.

NOT SURE what to do but this evening i went out for a ride and my shirt and hat wreak now. wife is complaining that i smell bad...

please help...
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:33 PM   #30
rmodel65
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sounds like that puff is just it getting a little richer(the accelerator pump injects some extra fuel) makes a little smoke from being rich
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:08 AM   #31
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yea it sure is Rich.....how can i lean it out? I want to enjoy the car not die when i drive it.
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:40 AM   #32
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car starts fine, idles fine and runs OK however at approx 15-20 mph with low rpm's there is some misfire, unless i slam on the pedal, car shakes. Seems as though the car doesnt run fine with low rpm's in low speed.

Also, i noticed that if im stopped and put the car in neutral, and slam on the gas, car will let out a small white cloud of smoke from the tailpipes. Car doesnt smoke while driving, temps are ok and so is oil pressure.

NOT SURE what to do but this evening i went out for a ride and my shirt and hat wreak now. wife is complaining that i smell bad...

please help...
does it smell like fuel or oil at idle? if fuel, you have the idle circuit way off. lean it out. that would also explain the off-idle stumble.

white smoke is water/coolant. blueish is oil. black is fuel.

high HC numbers is indicative of either too rich or burning oil. if it's oil you either have valve stem leak(s) or you have bad oil rings. the engine dying when you cover the pcv at idle could be bad rings or just from the engine running too rich and not producing much power at idle. it doesn't take much oil to raise HC numbers.

is it using any oil?

try these things:
- check your vacuum advance diaphragm. easiest way is with a timing light. it should be way advanced with it hooked up and drop back to a readable range when disconnected.
- check the choke for free movement and that it opens fully.
- let the car idle for 5 minutes after warming up. pull all plugs and check for discoloration and smell. black soot that smells like gas = rich. black goo that smells like burnt oil = oil. tan to slightly black = ok. light tan to white = lean.
- pull out your idle mixture screws and look for signs of over-tightening. you will see a flat spot or a ring around the needle. or it could be broken off and stuck. i spent 20 minutes trying to tune a carb once only to find out that the needle valve had been jammed in and broken off.
- check your float level and replace the fuel valve. unlikely, but it could be it.
- check your fuel psi. also unlikely since it would cause constant flooding.
- take a compression test. if you don't have a gauge, rent one from an auto parts store. take both static and cranking readings. post them here. you really want to be over 100psi on all cylinders.
- rebuild the carb
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:10 AM   #33
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welcome jcoby!

i'm the same opinion, shouldn't smell like unburnt gas. together with the stink you're wasting lots of money for petrol

1. Check the fuel lines and gas cap to make sure you are not simply loosing petrol.
2. the order above is correct: first check on the timing, then the carb

what jcoby says about the vacuum advance. hooked up lots of advance. This is only the case if the vacuum advance is hooked to the manifold pickup at carb. Ported vacuum will have no vacuum at idle. Simplest thing to check the diaphragm is just to switch off engine. pull the hose on carb side. suck on it until you feel the vacuum. block the hose with the tongue. The vacuum should stay until you remove the tongue from the hose.
Sounds disgusting but is a half minute check. It doesn't tell you about how much it advances but will tell you if the vacuum diaphragm is good.

and yes. ya. check plugs.
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:31 PM   #34
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dudes, I dont agree with the sealing the car and smells will go away. so in that case since my car is a convertible, its normal for it to reek as I drive with the roof down?
No, your engine is running rich if it stinks on the road.

car starts fine, idles fine and runs OK however at approx 15-20 mph with low rpm's there is some misfire, unless i slam on the pedal, car shakes. Seems as though the car doesnt run fine with low rpm's in low speed.
Running too lean or too rich, probably too rich.

Also, i noticed that if im stopped and put the car in neutral, and slam on the gas, car will let out a small white cloud of smoke from the tailpipes. Car doesn't smoke while driving, temps are OK and so is oil pressure.
Lotta things could cause this, but I keep thinking too rich.

NOT SURE what to do but this evening I went out for a ride and my shirt and hat reek now. wife is complaining that I smell bad...
I've had numerous convertibles, and none of them made me stinky while driving.
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:28 PM   #35
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I have the same problem on my 66 gt, and it has new exhaust and trunk seal. My car has fuel injection, so not to argue with some of the previous posts, but this issue is not a carb problem. I can adjust to run lean or rich on the fly, and it only changes the smell slightly, it doesn't get rid of it.

Window up small is bad, windows down smell will awful, regardless of speed. I find it gets worse once the car is warmed up.

so does anyone have some other solutions? I can't drive around with my kids in the back with how bad the fumes get.
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:28 PM
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