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Light battery + radiator?

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Old 04-28-2009, 09:48 PM
  #21  
109jb
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Originally Posted by Adrenolin
I agree... If you have enough gas fumes in your trunk to explode its because you have neglected the fuel hose, not sealed the tank to the trunk floor or something along those lines.
Get rear ended through no fault of your own and the fuel tank can rupture. Has nothing to do with how well maintained your car is. At the same time you are getting rear ended the battery cable can short to ground for the ignition source. If the battery isn't in a box it just has to have the positive post have something come into contact with it.
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 67t5ponycoupe
I'm not sure why you guys think the battery in the trunk is not safe bcause it is. It has been done safely by many people for many years. It is simple, easy, cheap and the best way to get a better front to rear weight ratio. Sure aluminum head help but at $1000 plus it is not economical. If you don't want your battery in the trunk then by all means don't move it but if you are not moving it only becase you believe it is not safe then in my opinion you are wrong.
Yes there are many many cars running around out there with batteries in the trunk. How many of those have a fuel tank that is basically the trunk floor as opposed to a fuel tank strapped under the trunk, and how many of them have been punched in the rear by an inattentive other driver. Just because you can drive a car with a battery in the trunk does not make it safe. It can be made relatively safe with battery boxes, relocated solenoids, etc... If that makes it safe enough for your comfort level then go for it. Fact of the matter is though that you absolutely can't make it as safe not having the battery in the trunk next to the fuel tank. This is a crashworthiness consideration.
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:38 PM
  #23  
TexasAxMan
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http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

Try this link to see about putting the solenoid in the trunk along with the battery. They also sell a junction block for a power source for all but the starting circuit.

Prior to viewing this site, I had almost no knowledge of automotive wiring. After reading on the site I have purchased several books to educate myself and everything I have read supports what this guy suggests. Maybe someone with more knowledge and skill can chime in, but I'm convinced this is the way to go for battery in the trunk.

I hope this helps.
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Old 04-29-2009, 03:35 PM
  #24  
Starfury
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It's not the live cable to the solenoid that's the hazard, it's the battery itself. The cable is insulated, the battery terminals aren't. In a rear end collision, the potential hazard is from body panels crumpling and shorting to the positive terminal on the battery, not to the insulated cable running to the front of the car.

If you're afraid of the battery sparking fuel vapors in a rear end collision, either put the battery in a box (which you should do anyway), or don't put it in the back. Better yet, put a thick steel plate over the top of the tank, or install a fuel cell.

If you do mount your battery in the trunk, be sure to use either a controlled vented battery (has small nipples on the side that connect to tubes run to the outside of the car) or an AGM battery that doesn't vent at all (like an Optima). There's more of a hazard from a hydrogen explosion from a standard lead acid battery mounted in the trunk than from a rear end collision.

Last edited by Starfury; 04-29-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 04-30-2009, 02:27 PM
  #25  
_Remi
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Hi friends,

Assuming that:

- My car is not a daily driver, hence I can take a little more risk
- I have a couple dollars to spend and the taylor aluminium boxes looks nice
- 40 lbs in the back as opposed where is it now will help my steering a little bit

I think that I am going for it!

Here is a picture I found online: http://www.fastbackmustang.com/image...DetailMain.jpg

Thanks,
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Old 04-30-2009, 03:30 PM
  #26  
109jb
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Originally Posted by _Remi
Hi friends,

Assuming that:

- My car is not a daily driver, hence I can take a little more risk
- I have a couple dollars to spend and the taylor aluminium boxes looks nice
- 40 lbs in the back as opposed where is it now will help my steering a little bit

I think that I am going for it!

Here is a picture I found online: http://www.fastbackmustang.com/image...DetailMain.jpg

Thanks,
If I were to put my battery in the trunk, I would use one of the plastic boxes like this one. The aluminum ones look sharp, but aluminum is also a conductor of electricity. Not just for crashworthiness consideration, but when doing battery maintenance.
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Old 04-30-2009, 04:30 PM
  #27  
Starfury
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I agree. Plastic boxes are safer and easier to work with.

Also, make sure to get yourself an Optima or equivalent AGM battery that reabsorbs any harmful/flammable gases rather than venting them to the battery box and trunk.
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Old 04-30-2009, 04:50 PM
  #28  
_Remi
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Do you know of some good kits coming with a plastic box?
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