Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > Classic Mustangs (Tech)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Finally PROGRESS!!

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-17-2009, 03:47 PM   #1
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default Finally PROGRESS!!

I finally started making progress again on my little project so I wanted to share:

Click the image to open in full size.


Here is all the suspension removed, and the new LCA in place:

Click the image to open in full size.


Hopefully I can get it rolling again pretty soon so I can fill this back up (and clean it!):

Click the image to open in full size.


I still have to reassemble most of the suspension with all my new goodies from LMM, then I get to start installing the new disc brakes and then the "new" engine goes in, yup, short and sweet .

At least I'm making progress again though, it set idle for about 2 months while I tried to find a spring compressor that would work, tried the strut compressor, not even close. Then I tried the 4-hook style internal type, couldn't get that to work, well at least not without scarring the CR@P out of me, then finally broke down and bought one of the mustang specific type that hook into the lower spring mount from a guy in texas (didn't trust my welding skills) and that thing worked awesome!!!!
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft

Last edited by 90RunnerRed; 11-07-2011 at 05:03 PM.
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2009, 05:40 PM   #2
Joe67
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2008
Vehicle: 1967 convertible(power top) Aqua Interior
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,049
Send a message via AIM to Joe67
Default

Gratz on progress...
While its apart are you goign to drill for the shelby drop? Even if you don't want it lowered now, the holes are there for when you do.
Joe67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2009, 06:31 PM   #3
Scott H.
5th Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,445
Thumbs up Great work!

.....
__________________
Scott

Last edited by Scott H.; 01-23-2010 at 03:21 PM.
Scott H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2009, 09:30 PM   #4
fakesnakes
4th Gear Member
 
fakesnakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Vehicle: Many
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,839
Default

Shelby drop!!!!
__________________
Mark

RCR GT40 Mk1
FFR Daytona Coupe (sold, sniff)
1968 GT500KR (clone)
1966 GT350 (clone)
1967 Mustang convertible (unmolested so far)
Hey, my whole life is a fake!

Need some motivation to get that thing started? Try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRskJ...e=channel_page
or this:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ndvideo013.flv
fakesnakes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2009, 10:03 PM   #5
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

Thanks guys.

So regarding the shelby drop. The only reason I'm contemplating not doing it is that I do not know of a good alignment shop and I have heard horror stories about people taking theirs to get done. Right now I made sure I kept track of which shims came from each post on the UCA, and I have matched my tie rods to my old ones, hoping that when I put it all back together I am still close to where I was (it handled well and drove straight before this). Am I way off base in hoping this will work. I agree with you guys that while everything is off it is a shame not to do the drop, but I don't want to have to go round and round with an alignment shop either. I kind of like Joe's idea of drilling the holes now for future use.
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 06:24 AM   #6
fakesnakes
4th Gear Member
 
fakesnakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Vehicle: Many
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,839
Default

You are changing your suspension components and will need an alignment. You can not count on everything being exactly where it was when you put it back together with new components. Unfortunately, it just doesn't work that way! You are headed to an alignment shop no matter, so do the drop while you can.
__________________
Mark

RCR GT40 Mk1
FFR Daytona Coupe (sold, sniff)
1968 GT500KR (clone)
1966 GT350 (clone)
1967 Mustang convertible (unmolested so far)
Hey, my whole life is a fake!

Need some motivation to get that thing started? Try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRskJ...e=channel_page
or this:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ndvideo013.flv
fakesnakes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 12:36 PM   #7
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

I was afraid of that, thanks for the advice. Hopefully I can get it close enough to at least drive it to the shop. Anyone know of a good alignment shop around Colorado Springs?
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 12:39 PM   #8
Adrenolin
5th Gear Member
 
Adrenolin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 67 Ford Mustang
Location: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Posts: 2,035
Default

Don't forget.. if you do the UCA drop to get the new specs for alignment and give it to the alignment shop.
__________________
GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats....
Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
Adrenolin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 12:54 PM   #9
Nick.Simonds
4th Gear Member
 
Nick.Simonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 65 Coupe
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,241
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrenolin View Post
Don't forget.. if you do the UCA drop to get the new specs for alignment and give it to the alignment shop.
If you do this, you should be have a problem.
__________________
Nick.Simonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 05:06 PM   #10
chillininnh
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 03246
Posts: 477
Send a message via Yahoo to chillininnh
Default

Not doing the drop now would be CRAZY!!!
__________________


69 Mach 1 418W/TKO600/RMP Front Coil-Over/TCP Manual R&P/FR Tilt Column/GW Subs/GW Lowering Leafs/GW Del-A-Lum/Factory Power Front Brakes/3.70 9" Auburn Diff/Painless Wiring/ProCar Elite Lumbar
Project Pics
http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/chillininnh/
chillininnh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 09:30 PM   #11
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chillininnh View Post
Not doing the drop now would be CRAZY!!!
LOL! I hear ya guys loud and clear. I ordered a template and drill bit today. I know you can download them off the internet, but I'm paranoid since I really only get one shot at this. I also ordered a new set of front brake lines! I'm not sure where this thing is going to end, I keep seeing stuff that "well that would be good to do while everything is apart."

Thanks for the heads up on the differnet specs, I remember reading that on a how-to website somewhere. I think I found a "good" alignment shop, there's three guys at work that have 65 and 66 mustangs, so I asked a couple of them.
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2009, 11:35 PM   #12
Adrenolin
5th Gear Member
 
Adrenolin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Vehicle: 67 Ford Mustang
Location: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Posts: 2,035
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90RunnerRed View Post
... I'm not sure where this thing is going to end, I keep seeing stuff that "well that would be good to do while everything is apart."
lol I fell into that trap while the car was ripped down to the bare shell.. watch yourself! It's simply amazing how quickly a 200.00 change turns into 500/750/1000/etc!
__________________
GT 351 - 67 Mustang / 68 Shelby Conversion (GT351.net)
Modified 351w, 4-Spd Toploader, Coil-Over Suspension, Power R&P, 4-Wheel Disks,
Currie 9" Rear with 3.25 & TrueTrac, Ron Francis Wiring, Vintage Air, Intermittent Wipers,
Sequential Tail Lights, Power Windows & Locks, Rear Window Defrost, Heated Seats....
Oct 2009 Mustang Forums ROTM Winner!
Adrenolin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 07:15 PM   #13
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

Oh I've already started pushing that limit....not good. I'm really dreading the dollar signs when I start rebuilding the original engine.
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 09:44 PM   #14
1slow67
ROTM Moderator
 
1slow67's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Vehicle: 2003 GT
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 7,941
jake03gt
Default

I used a 1/2" drill bit for the drop. Didn't see a reason ordering the drill bit.
__________________
1slow67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2009, 05:35 PM   #15
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

Well I drilled the holes for the drop today:

Click the image to open in full size.


And then I finally got to start putting some parts back on the car, man did that feel good (SO SEXY!):

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft

Last edited by 90RunnerRed; 11-07-2011 at 05:05 PM.
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 07:44 PM   #16
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

Brakes are ON! I'm rather excited because at this point I could actually throw the wheels on and move the car if needs be. I still have to attach the lines, proportioning valve and master cylinder, but it could technically be moved...

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft

Last edited by 90RunnerRed; 11-07-2011 at 05:06 PM.
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 11:54 PM   #17
badazz68stang
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 445
Send a message via AIM to badazz68stang
Default

looking good man. im doing the exact same thing right now, hopefully getting the template in the mail tomorrow to perform the drop. A few questions, what was your process in the reassemble. did you do both arms and the spindle before the spring? im just concerned about getting the new spring back in. Also, what kind of springs are those, drop or stock height? and what pound springs are they as well. GR2 shocks? Which took longer, tearing it down or putting it back together.
__________________
1968 C code Coupe
Smoothed out and HOK True BLUE.
17X8 TT2's, 235/45 up front 245/45 in the back
JL audio in the trunk

THis summer:
New exhaust
Rework front suspension
And these disc brake things everyone keeps talkin about.
badazz68stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2009, 09:24 PM   #18
90RunnerRed
2nd Gear Member
 
90RunnerRed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Vehicle: 1965-Mustang
Location: CO
Posts: 224
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by badazz68stang View Post
looking good man. im doing the exact same thing right now, hopefully getting the template in the mail tomorrow to perform the drop. A few questions, what was your process in the reassemble. did you do both arms and the spindle before the spring? im just concerned about getting the new spring back in. Also, what kind of springs are those, drop or stock height? and what pound springs are they as well. GR2 shocks? Which took longer, tearing it down or putting it back together.
I bought a bolt in type spring compressor, very similar to the one here:

http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/spring

So basically the spring and the saddle go in first and you compress them enough to get the upper A-arm bolted into the shock towers, and then you bolt the saddle onto the a-arm. With everything bolted in and tightened down, I left the spring compressed and installed the spindle and the lower control arm, then I slowly released the spring. It just seemed like stuff would line up a little better with the spring compressed a little, not sure if that's necessary though. Plus with the bolt in type compressor I really wasn't worried about it going anywhere. I would imagine, whatever type spring compressor you use, you would need to have the spring up in the shock tower before you bolt the a-arm in, but having never done it, I don't know for sure. Someone can correct me.

THey are stock springs (height and lbf). I like the stock ride height. I had wanted the GT springs but every where I looked they were on like 3 or 4 month back order, maybe I just didn't look hard enough.

I am using GR2 shocks, I had those on prior to all of the suspension work and loved them.

Tearing everything down definitely took longer for me, I had trouble with a couple of ball joints and I went through two different spring compressors before buying this one and finally feeling safe enough to compress the old springs and take them out. Reassembly of just the spring, two control arms, and spindle took me about 2 hours per side, I took my time though making sure I had everything right.

Alright, well I'll stop typing now.
__________________
1965 Mustang - 289 - 2v - 4 speed
Shelby Drop, KH Disc Brake, Rblt 289 w/Roller Conv.

2001 DHG Mustang Bullitt
Vortech V3, 390 HP/392 TQ, BBK Long Tubes, MAC Pro-chamber, MagnaFlow Axleback, 4:10 FRPP gears, MGW Short-throw, 03 Cobra Bumper and Hood, Mach 1 Grill, MM LCA, MM CC Plates, MM Subframe Connectors, H&R SuperSports, Koni STR.T's, Powerslot Rotors, EBC Ylwstuff Pads, MRT CAI, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Easton LSD, Drake Diff Cvr, CF Dual Friction, Spec Stg2 Fly, Alum Driveshaft
90RunnerRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2009, 01:52 PM   #19
badazz68stang
2nd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 445
Send a message via AIM to badazz68stang
Default

so, not sure how you are supposed to install the saddle with the spring before you attach the saddle to the UCA. also, should the end of the spring sit close to the raised tab on the saddle. its on the inner front side of the saddle.
__________________
1968 C code Coupe
Smoothed out and HOK True BLUE.
17X8 TT2's, 235/45 up front 245/45 in the back
JL audio in the trunk

THis summer:
New exhaust
Rework front suspension
And these disc brake things everyone keeps talkin about.
badazz68stang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2009, 01:56 PM   #20
4reboy
5th Gear Member
 
4reboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Vehicle: 1969 Mach1
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,990
Default

that looks great so far! keep it up
__________________
1969 Winter Blue Mach 1 M-code


Classic ROTM 2009 winner thanks everybody
4reboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2009, 01:56 PM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Tags
1968, 65, 68, alignment, compressor, drop, internal, mustang, removal, shelby, specs, spring, uca

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Finally! Progress on FMIC install 2000GT4.6 4.6L General Discussion 27 04-02-2008 08:18 PM
Finally Installed a Chin Spoiler.... mlcrycc 2005 - 2014 Mustangs 56 01-17-2008 07:20 PM
Made some progress tonight... Updated with more pictures! 92hatchLX 5.0L General Discussion 52 10-24-2007 12:56 PM

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:17 AM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.


This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup