Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Sanding 101

Old 05-25-2009, 03:45 PM
  #11  
stangtjk
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These are only $3.99 from harbor freight and they last pretty long. They work great in corners and relatively tight spaces. If you already have a 4 1/2" grinder I definitely pick up a couple if not buy a grinder and pick up a couple anyway I'm sure you'll use them. No messy cleanup to worry about and it will take off paint, rust, bondo, adhesives or anything else and not damage the metal at all. They also work great stripping the interior panels without damaging the textured finish.

Last edited by stangtjk; 05-25-2009 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:05 AM
  #12  
ThongsareSweet
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I was looking around and I think I might go with the pressure washer with the sand blaster adaptor from princess auto which adrenolin was talking about. Curious could I get away useing a little 1500 PSI washer though or should I up it into the 2000 area??
Also I was wondering how long can I leave it to bare metal before it starts to get cancer again??
Which brings me to my next question. I was wondering about getting some type of paint sprayer. I don't intend on painting the car because it takes a lot of skill to get a perfect paint job but was wondering about spraying down an epoxy primer and maybe even getting it prepped for paint. Iam not on a strict budget but I would love to learn how to do most of it myself and avoid throwing my wallet at someone when I could do the job myself.
Like I was saying before I don't have a 60g 240v compressor yet but will probably get one when Iam able to afford a house in the near future. Could I get away using maybe a 20g/33g 120v tank with around 40/90 psi and around 5.1/5.6 CFM to run maybe a gravity fed gun or something. Is there a better gun that I don't know about or a better paint sprayer setup I haven't seen.
I realize with a tank like that, running air tools is pretty useless because a lot of them require around 9/10 cfm but I don't want to just sit around till iam able to buy a place when I could be working on the car right now
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:30 AM
  #13  
rmodel65
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for a paint gun surf ebay and look for a Sata Jet 90 they can be had used for about 100$

as for getting cancer a panel will start to flash rust very quick so you want to get it epoxy primed as soon as possible


if you want to use a sand etc your gonna need a compressor with an 80gallon tank that is 2 stage or else your gonna have to stop to let it build pressure etc maybe even spraying primer air tools use a lot of CFM


i have an 80 gallon 2 stage from home depot has a 3 year warranty iirc it was about 850$ and it was 0% financing for 12 months so you might want to look into that.
to house the compressor i took a old truck topper and four post to keep it out of the rain etc till i get a building built
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:58 PM
  #14  
Adrenolin
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I don't know if 1500 would work or not. We used a gas powered pressure washer set between 2500 & 3000psi. The pressure needs to be high enough to suck the sand up & out. It took off the car's original primer, paint and an additional layer in 2 - 3 strokes. It makes stripping the car very fast (about 4 hours) however it is VERY messy! Wet sand WILL get into every nook & cranny of the car. I rinsed it for a good hour with the pressure washer and thought I got most of it out. Wrong! Over the next few months we found sand everywhere still. Everytime we rolled the car on the rotisserie more sand fell out. The rockers took a long time for the wet sand to dry before we could blow them out clean.

Note also that here in Nova Scotia the fender would flash rust before the door was done ; the door would flash rust before the quarter was finished. When your finished the car was covered in surface rust. A few hours of light sanding the next day and it got a protective coat of primer.

I'd do it again but as JMD stated above it's very messy. Legal... Might want to check your local bylaws beforehand as well. I found out it wasn't exactly legal in our area afterwards.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:04 PM
  #15  
Adrenolin
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Originally Posted by rmodel65
to house the compressor i took a old truck topper and four post to keep it out of the rain etc till i get a building built
cry! at least you got your compressor out of the garage. The garage I'm using has the big thing stuffed back in the corner of the garage. Over the past year I've built a love/hate relationship with the damned loud thing.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:39 PM
  #16  
jcoby
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Originally Posted by Adrenolin
Note also that here in Nova Scotia the fender would flash rust before the door was done ; the door would flash rust before the quarter was finished. When your finished the car was covered in surface rust. A few hours of light sanding the next day and it got a protective coat of primer.
you can pick up phosphoric acid from your local home improvement house in the paint section. mix 50/50 with water and wipe the rust away.. at least that's what i've heard. haven't tried it myself.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:11 PM
  #17  
chris66dad
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2k (2 part with a catalyst) epoxy primer is by far the best protection for rust. It can be sprayed and some can be brushed on. It will keep rust away and it can be scuffed and recoated with more epoxy if the time window is exceeded (usually about 7 days)
I have used PPG DPLF but really prefer SPI epoxy because it sands much nicer. It is also 1/2 the price!
I found sanding disks http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97278
and sanding wheels http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93013
work really good and avoid a lot of the problems that chemical strippers have.
Harbor freight also sells paint guns that will work good for epoxy in the 20 to 30 dollar price range. You need a 1.6 to 1.8 tip
Spend the extra $ for a good finish gun for BC/CC
Good luck
Ron

Last edited by chris66dad; 06-04-2009 at 10:15 PM.
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