ThongsareSweet

Hey Guys I have read a lot of info on sanding my stang but ive ran into a problem. Originaly I planned on first buying a 240v 60gal compressor but after getting the boot in my old place and iam stuck in a transition where I will only have 120v so that throws a lot of my plans off. Iam currently looking for a house/Acreage where I can get a proper shop in order, perf big enough to get a lift in or make up a rotisserie .... I figure I need at least a 60gal because I don't want the thing to run for 2 mins and then have to wait for 10... I want to run air tools as well off it.
Anyway, I have read guys using aircraft stripper and it sounds good and all but sounds toxic as hell. I Have also thought about using a polisher/grinder and getting 120-150grit or something along those lines.
What would I use to get into the tight areas though, it would be nice to have a sand blaster for those areas especially the shock tower areas??
I think i will just get some type of paint sprayer after to shot down some epoxy primer right after. I don't think I will paint the car atm, it seems like years away from that stage anyway.
Reasons I ask is my mechanics have kinda left me high and dry and I went to a couple shops that do sand blasting and they wanted to much and the customer service was crap. I really haven't had a lot of luck with shops in the past and I enjoy fixing up my ride. As slow as I might be I get the job done right

stangtjk

I recommend a grinder with a twisted wire cup brush. I stripped my entire car with and air board sander, cup brush and a little bit of stripper. I didn't use the aircraft stripper though. The stuff I used wasn't near as harmful. It was a paste that you brushed on and you had to wait a few hours. I cant remember what it was called but there are several brands available. I have used the aircraft stripper before though and it worked a lot faster but it will burn you if you get it on you.

HGC

Just use the stripper in the tight areas. That's what I did. There are just places you can't get to any other way. But, like was said...that stuff will burn you. If you use it WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!!

Oxnard Montalvo

It'd be nice if you could afford to use a tight stripper to use the stripper in the tight areas. You could just sit back and watch.

plcdude

Stripper works pretty good. I am in the process of stripping my car for the second time (first time was 25 years ago). The stuff I am using (bought at Home Depot) is kind of a thick gel that you spread wait 15 minutes and scrape. It usually take 2 passes to get to bare metal, though that depends on how think the paint is that you are stripping. The stuff also works pretty good on bondo too.

Here is what my hood looks like.

andrewmp6

I use sanding blocks its slower but it turns out better harder to cut in too deep.

Adrenolin

Depending on where you live you could sand blast it yourself. I had access to a portable pressure washer, gas powered and hooks up to an outdoor household water tap with a garden hose. Bought a sand blast attachment at Princess Auto for 80.00 bucks and about 30 100lb bags of sand from the local building supply store (8.45 per bag). The shell, doors, fenders took about 4 to 5 hours iirc. It gets in every little nook and cranny of the car and takes a lot to clean out completely.

Regular sand blasting has issues you need to be aware of like panel distortion caused from the friction heat of the sand. Sand blasting with water is cool and doesn't distort the panels. Also due to the water the amount of sand dust (silica) is almost null.. still suggest a good respirator with new filters, face shield, hat, etc at least.

btw.. Where abouts in Canada are you?

ThongsareSweet

Hey thx for the input about what to look for. Iam Currently living in Edmonton, Alberta Interesting using a pressure washer. what are the specs to that like 120v 1200 psi? Do you need a special adaptor for that? I understand this is a messy job either way you do it and yes a respirator is key.
The board sanders sound key to shaping the car especially the low and high spots. How rough is that twisted wire brush? is that for the shell mostly because wouldn't it leave wavy lines?
When I get it down to bare metal Would i fill the low spots and nicks with bondo before shotting down some epoxy? Curious to how long can you leave it bare before it turns to cancer again?
Can you use some type of epoxy that helps show the low and high spots besides using just good lighting?

JMD

If you have a GOOD compressor, a GOOD d/a sander is hard to beat....

with some 36 or even 80 grit paper, bare metal does not take so long and it comes reasonably easy.

The stripper is a labor saver especially in jambs, under the hood, and other tight spots and places that tear sandpaper, and I RECOMMEND it's use for these places. It burns like hell when you get it on your skin and/or your EYES, (yea, I know about this firsthand from when I was a lot younger), but when used with care it is a very useful tool that will save loads of time.

Sandblasting is effective, and it is MY PREFERRED CHOICE when dealing with rust, but I am not a fan of sandblasting to deal with paint. Just too damn messy and MISERABLE for my taste.

So, to be effective and efficient, a person NEEDS to consider a multi faceted approach to surface preparation choosing the appropriate action for the particular issue at hand.

Did my answer help?

rmodel65

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