Tranny conversion
#1
Tranny conversion
Just picked up a 64 1/2 Mustang Straight body but needs to be put back together as far as drive trin and interior.
I ahve been looking to convert from an auto to a stick which I have done many many years ago, as times have changed so have the transmissions. I found a T-10 and am trying to identify if it is close ratio or wide ratio?
Also I hear alot abourt the T5 has anyone put one in an early mustang and if so what problems could there be? My engine will end up around 350HP when done would there be issues because of that?
Any input would be helpful along with places that arent redicules for new chrome, carpet, interior etc>>
thanks
Bernie
I ahve been looking to convert from an auto to a stick which I have done many many years ago, as times have changed so have the transmissions. I found a T-10 and am trying to identify if it is close ratio or wide ratio?
Also I hear alot abourt the T5 has anyone put one in an early mustang and if so what problems could there be? My engine will end up around 350HP when done would there be issues because of that?
Any input would be helpful along with places that arent redicules for new chrome, carpet, interior etc>>
thanks
Bernie
#2
Just picked up a 64 1/2 Mustang Straight body but needs to be put back together as far as drive trin and interior.
Some 64 stuff is hard, but most is easy. The only thing I would have trouble with is finding the "correct" 64 arm rest chrome, which is slightly different from the 65-66. I do know where you can get the unique door sills, which were also different.
I ahve been looking to convert from an auto to a stick which I have done many many years ago, as times have changed so have the transmissions. I found a T-10 and am trying to identify if it is close ratio or wide ratio?
If there is no tag, could you tell us how many grooves there are around the splines on the input shaft.
Also I hear alot abourt the T5 has anyone put one in an early mustang and if so what problems could there be?
If you have the original type 5-bolt bell pattern engine, some modification of the adapter plate might be required, but no big deal. The stock clutch linkage would work perfectly with the T5.
My engine will end up around 350HP when done would there be issues because of that?
Only if you plan regular racing, or if you're the type who beats the tar out of a transmission.
Any input would be helpful along with places that arent redicules for new chrome, carpet, interior etc.
Try these guys, they can get you whatever you need, stock or modified, and will help you avoid poor quality junk, too:
http://www.mustangbarn.com
Some 64 stuff is hard, but most is easy. The only thing I would have trouble with is finding the "correct" 64 arm rest chrome, which is slightly different from the 65-66. I do know where you can get the unique door sills, which were also different.
I ahve been looking to convert from an auto to a stick which I have done many many years ago, as times have changed so have the transmissions. I found a T-10 and am trying to identify if it is close ratio or wide ratio?
If there is no tag, could you tell us how many grooves there are around the splines on the input shaft.
Also I hear alot abourt the T5 has anyone put one in an early mustang and if so what problems could there be?
If you have the original type 5-bolt bell pattern engine, some modification of the adapter plate might be required, but no big deal. The stock clutch linkage would work perfectly with the T5.
My engine will end up around 350HP when done would there be issues because of that?
Only if you plan regular racing, or if you're the type who beats the tar out of a transmission.
Any input would be helpful along with places that arent redicules for new chrome, carpet, interior etc.
Try these guys, they can get you whatever you need, stock or modified, and will help you avoid poor quality junk, too:
http://www.mustangbarn.com
#5
http://www.mustangbarn.com/catalog.pdf
#6
Links I used when doing my T5 conversion. They will answer most of your questions and explain the different options you must decide on:
http://www.moderndriveline.com/FAQ.htm#_Toc29404676
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...swap/index.php
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...conversion.htm
http://www.themustangshop.com/t5swap.cfm
http://www.sunflower.com/~vervaecke/clutch.htm
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...uild/index.php
http://www.sccoa.com/faq/speedgr.html
All the T5 trannys look the same. They have a tag on them and the number can be referenced to this chart for its rating. You will want to look for one with a high torque rating (300 or better) .
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...p/index2.shtml
The World Class is the correct one. It also uses automatic transmission fluid. A good check is to also open the drain plug and make sure it had ATF in it. If it is 80 weight gear lube, they are trying to sell you a NON World class T5. WALK AWAY QUICKLY
Your auto drive shaft yoke WILL fit the T5. The drive shaft will probably need to be shortened some to have .75 TO 1.00 INCH OF FREE PLAY. Too little and you can wreck your tranny or break the U joint and too much will cause vibration. Shorten/balance and rebuild cost $150. CHECK IT BEFORE YOU CUT IT. Street or Track sells an Aluminum for 299 that we eventually went with.
A T5 yoke has the same spline count but the part that slides into the transmission is shorter. It does nothing for the 1 inch freeplay your driveshaft needs.
Consider using a T5 bellhousing and the flywheel WITH THE CORRECT IMBALANCE so you can use a 10 1/2 inch clutch. you will also need a late model TO bearing, clutch fork, late model starter and block plate
You can use the old bellhousing but you will need to modify it. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Mustang suppliers sell it for about 40. You can then use your old clutch
The T5 mounting bracket is needed because the the mount is about 1 inch back and the old mount wont line up.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/FAQ.htm#_Toc29404676
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...swap/index.php
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...conversion.htm
http://www.themustangshop.com/t5swap.cfm
http://www.sunflower.com/~vervaecke/clutch.htm
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...uild/index.php
http://www.sccoa.com/faq/speedgr.html
All the T5 trannys look the same. They have a tag on them and the number can be referenced to this chart for its rating. You will want to look for one with a high torque rating (300 or better) .
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...p/index2.shtml
The World Class is the correct one. It also uses automatic transmission fluid. A good check is to also open the drain plug and make sure it had ATF in it. If it is 80 weight gear lube, they are trying to sell you a NON World class T5. WALK AWAY QUICKLY
Your auto drive shaft yoke WILL fit the T5. The drive shaft will probably need to be shortened some to have .75 TO 1.00 INCH OF FREE PLAY. Too little and you can wreck your tranny or break the U joint and too much will cause vibration. Shorten/balance and rebuild cost $150. CHECK IT BEFORE YOU CUT IT. Street or Track sells an Aluminum for 299 that we eventually went with.
A T5 yoke has the same spline count but the part that slides into the transmission is shorter. It does nothing for the 1 inch freeplay your driveshaft needs.
Consider using a T5 bellhousing and the flywheel WITH THE CORRECT IMBALANCE so you can use a 10 1/2 inch clutch. you will also need a late model TO bearing, clutch fork, late model starter and block plate
You can use the old bellhousing but you will need to modify it. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Mustang suppliers sell it for about 40. You can then use your old clutch
The T5 mounting bracket is needed because the the mount is about 1 inch back and the old mount wont line up.
Last edited by chris66dad; 06-03-2009 at 10:49 AM.
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