Gun Jam

I still say get the 40 dollar PS to MS drag link conversion. Scrap all that stuff, and have the steering box rebuilt or get a flaming river box.
Now you trouble free performance plus your steering box needed rebuilding anyhow.

using the FR gearbox and MS conversion is not the same as cutting the belt on your PS pump. It requires less effort after the conversion. The only time you notice it is in tight parking lots.

-Gun

Tomrob77

where can i find this drag link conversion.

2+2GT

Any Mustang supplier, Glazier Nolan, Mu, etc.

Chockostang is right, Mustang PS is excellent if put together properly. It rarely is, though, because people take shortcuts, use substandard hoses, etc.

Tomrob77

Yeah i took off my PS belt and its incredibly hard to turn even while driving, and I have maybe a 10 inch section in my steering wheel turning where nothing happens, im holding the wheel almost a half turn to the left to go straight. Very annoying, But if i get that centerlink part, the one for $170 that should go away. and a rebuilt steering box?

Gun Jam

Yeah you have the 68 I do know it takes a more expensive MS conversion than the 66 65s.

So it sounds like you really really need to rebuild that box if you have 10 of free play. That is a dead giveaway of a worn steering box. However switching to MS will almost without a doubt reduce play which is probably coming from the ball stud in the control valve (if its anything like the 66) Chances are a rebuilt box is also in order base on that much deadzone.

Now that said.... Some have said that rebuilding the box is a better route than getting a new flaming river box. I can say that I am happy with my FR gear box it has a bit of deadzone maybe +- 1" left and right I am not bother too much by it. Those who have rebuilt the box say it is of better quality than the FR gear box...I dont know.

When I first had the FR gear box It had nearly zero on the deadzone but was very stiff and required quite a bit of force to operate. After a few hundred miles steering effort became quite a bit reduced but i ended up with that +- 1" left and right dead zone...

You might want to also check ball jonts, idler arm, and tie rods for wear.

-Gun

Tomrob77

will do. thanks for the input

2+2GT

Yes, with a 68 you need to buy an adapter, about twice the cost of a 64-66 manual style center link.

wumarshall82

I had a 65 w/o ps and my 66 currently has it. I love it and mine doesnt leak either (knock on wood). Just try doing a 3 point turn and see how much of a difference it is

4reboy

as for the play in the steering, adjust the steering box it will take out about half the play. Jack up the front end, turn the wheels all the way to the left I believe, then loosen the nut at the bottom of the stud on the steering box and tighten the stud until you feel it start to rub. Then back it off a quarter turn or so just so it doesn't rub anymore. Retighten the nut and test it out, you should have less play. I have maybe 5" of play or so now left to right, not nearly as bad as the whole foot I had before. Now I think after I replace my tie rods and whatnot I'll have even less.

OCHOHILL

If this were a commercial vehicle it would get red tagged. 10" of freeplay is dangerous. 5" is scary.