Convert to T5 or Tremec for 65 Mustang
06-10-2009, 12:04 PM
#11
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,946
Actually for you the easiest way is to stay with the set up have all you will need for the conversion is the bellhousing adapter and a shorter drive shaft and a T5 of course. All the clutch linkage will work.
06-10-2009, 06:43 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 31
Horspower should be around 385 + 8000 RPM max.
This will be a modern duplicate of what be built back in 1977 for a 65 we owned back then, only this will have modern ignition, roller rockers, roller lifters and cam, better manifold etc etc.
My friend just called me on a T5 he found out of an 87 GT with 5.0 HO engine supposedly in good shape, $250.00
This will be a modern duplicate of what be built back in 1977 for a 65 we owned back then, only this will have modern ignition, roller rockers, roller lifters and cam, better manifold etc etc.
My friend just called me on a T5 he found out of an 87 GT with 5.0 HO engine supposedly in good shape, $250.00
06-10-2009, 06:52 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 31
Was an auotmatic but converting to stick, I do have a close ratio rebuilt borg warner T10 (Transmission only) that I originally bought for this project but decided to go with the T5 or Tremec, might be easier for the wife
06-10-2009, 07:16 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 31
Links I used when doing my T5 conversion. They will answer most of your questions and explain the different options you must decide on:
http://www.moderndriveline.com/FAQ.htm#_Toc29404676
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...swap/index.php
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...conversion.htm
http://www.themustangshop.com/t5swap.cfm
http://www.sunflower.com/~vervaecke/clutch.htm
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...uild/index.php
http://www.sccoa.com/faq/speedgr.html
All the T5 trannys look the same. They have a tag on them and the number can be referenced to this chart for its rating. You will want to look for one with a high torque rating (300 or better) .
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...p/index2.shtml
The World Class is the correct one. It also uses automatic transmission fluid. A good check is to also open the drain plug and make sure it had ATF in it. If it is 80 weight gear lube, they are trying to sell you a NON World class T5. WALK AWAY QUICKLY
Your auto drive shaft yoke WILL fit the T5. The drive shaft will probably need to be shortened some to have .750 to 1.000 inch OF FREE PLAY. Too little and you can wreck your tranny or break the U joint and too much will cause vibration. Shorten/balance and rebuild cost $150. CHECK IT BEFORE YOU CUT IT. I decided to go with a Coleman Aluminum drive shaft from Streetortrack.com and it was 299. I have no vibration problems.
A T5 yoke has the same spline count but the part that slides into the transmission is shorter. It does nothing for the 1 inch freeplay your driveshaft needs.
Consider using a T5 bellhousing and the flywheel WITH THE CORRECT IMBALANCE so you can use a 10 1/2 inch clutch. you will also need a late model TO bearing, clutch fork, late model starter and block plate
You can use the old bellhousing but you will need to modify it. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Mustang suppliers sell it for about 40. You can then use your old clutch
The T5 mounting bracket is needed because the the mount is about 1 inch back and the old mount wont line up. I read of 1 person modifying the old one to get it to work but he spent a lot of time doing it.
Also change out the front Bearing Retainer to a steel unit. Also change out the Tail Shaft Bushing and Seal. Both are easy to do BEFORE you put it in the car. Here is an excellent write up I used: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2.../t5/index2.php
Good luck
Ron
http://www.moderndriveline.com/FAQ.htm#_Toc29404676
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...swap/index.php
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...conversion.htm
http://www.themustangshop.com/t5swap.cfm
http://www.sunflower.com/~vervaecke/clutch.htm
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...uild/index.php
http://www.sccoa.com/faq/speedgr.html
All the T5 trannys look the same. They have a tag on them and the number can be referenced to this chart for its rating. You will want to look for one with a high torque rating (300 or better) .
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...p/index2.shtml
The World Class is the correct one. It also uses automatic transmission fluid. A good check is to also open the drain plug and make sure it had ATF in it. If it is 80 weight gear lube, they are trying to sell you a NON World class T5. WALK AWAY QUICKLY
Your auto drive shaft yoke WILL fit the T5. The drive shaft will probably need to be shortened some to have .750 to 1.000 inch OF FREE PLAY. Too little and you can wreck your tranny or break the U joint and too much will cause vibration. Shorten/balance and rebuild cost $150. CHECK IT BEFORE YOU CUT IT. I decided to go with a Coleman Aluminum drive shaft from Streetortrack.com and it was 299. I have no vibration problems.
A T5 yoke has the same spline count but the part that slides into the transmission is shorter. It does nothing for the 1 inch freeplay your driveshaft needs.
Consider using a T5 bellhousing and the flywheel WITH THE CORRECT IMBALANCE so you can use a 10 1/2 inch clutch. you will also need a late model TO bearing, clutch fork, late model starter and block plate
You can use the old bellhousing but you will need to modify it. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Mustang suppliers sell it for about 40. You can then use your old clutch
The T5 mounting bracket is needed because the the mount is about 1 inch back and the old mount wont line up. I read of 1 person modifying the old one to get it to work but he spent a lot of time doing it.
Also change out the front Bearing Retainer to a steel unit. Also change out the Tail Shaft Bushing and Seal. Both are easy to do BEFORE you put it in the car. Here is an excellent write up I used: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2.../t5/index2.php
Good luck
Ron
06-10-2009, 08:41 PM
#16
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Any advice or options, dont want to pay a fortune but I want something that will shift alot smother and easier than the T10 with the Hurst Competion Plus for my wife and daughters.
I want to put in the late model T5 or Tremac and if there is a "how Too" please let me know
Thanks
Bernie
562-884-0788
I want to put in the late model T5 or Tremac and if there is a "how Too" please let me know
Thanks
Bernie
562-884-0788
You already have functioning manual in the car, so the clutch and bellhousing need not be touched.
You'll need a bellhousing adapter, T5 trans, C4 type speedo cable and gear, T5 crossmember, special T5 shift lever and ****, and access to a lift and about 4 hours to do the job. As stated above, the normal 28 spline slip yoke you already have (unless you have one of those funky early transmissions with the 25 spline) will work, and although the driveshaft fits tighter, I have yet to see one that needs to be cut. Remember, when you put weight on the rear axle, the yoke slides out of the trans. Really, for you with your manual setup, the T5 conversion is easy.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 06-10-2009 at 08:46 PM.
06-10-2009, 09:13 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
385hp at 8,000rpm? What size is the engine, 200 inches? You can get 385hp out of a 302 at 6,000rpm. Unless you're talking wheel hp, but even though you still shouldn't need to turn 8,000rpm. If you're building an engine that makes honest peak power in the mid-upper 7k range, then in all likelihood a T5 would just get tore the hell up in a hurry. Even 385hp at 6k would be a bit of a strain on a T5, unless you do a GeForce gear upgrade.
06-10-2009, 09:37 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 31
My friend is building the motor, he is 49 years old and has built many motors, just going by what he is telling me. I bought a Mustiang from him when I was 17 and he is duplicating that motor, tore up the shock towers then and could pull the front wheels up.
I wanted a simple low RPM motor but he has insisted he build the old school motor and recreate what we had in the 70's. I'm not pushing to hard on it as he has gotten everything at a huge discount and assembly is free. Waiting for the balancing to be done hopefully by next week.
Wanted the T5 as my wife will also be driving and I do not miss the T10 from way back when.
T10 in previous was bullet proof though, we did destroy more clutches then anything else back then.
I wanted a simple low RPM motor but he has insisted he build the old school motor and recreate what we had in the 70's. I'm not pushing to hard on it as he has gotten everything at a huge discount and assembly is free. Waiting for the balancing to be done hopefully by next week.
Wanted the T5 as my wife will also be driving and I do not miss the T10 from way back when.
T10 in previous was bullet proof though, we did destroy more clutches then anything else back then.
06-10-2009, 11:04 PM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Benicia, Ca
Posts: 386
The original cross member is replaced with one made specifically for the swap. You can pick them up from most Mustang dealers or Ebay for about $130-150.
The T5 mounting is about 1 inch farther back than an original.
I went with the Ron Morris type because it gives the most room for exhaust pipes.
06-10-2009, 11:39 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Well, if he builds a motor like was built back in the 70's, it's going to be 2 generations behind modern performance, unless it's built using more modern intake/cam/heads. Not trying to criticize or anything, just sayin'. If the motor is built "old school" you may end up with an over cammed high rpm street turd. Most of the old school crap that was tried in the 60's and 70's was based on bad philosophy and a lack of scientific understanding and data. Not saying he won't build a good engine, but I'm always very wary of anyone wanting to build an "old school like in the 70's" engine, since 9/10 times they end up falling on their face when you hit the gas.