Help--A/C is terrible
06-30-2005, 01:25 AM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 508
Help--A/C is terrible
Today in east Texas, we had a head index of 103, and it's only going to get hotter.
It seems even with factory air in my 67 blowing at full blast, I still have to change my shirt after a 20 minute drive home at 4 in the afternoon.
So my question being, what upgrade would make the a/c run colder? Condenser? Compressor? Evaporator?
Keep in mind that I cant afford a perfect fit system, much less instal it myself, or have someone else do it.
Thanks,
Allen
It seems even with factory air in my 67 blowing at full blast, I still have to change my shirt after a 20 minute drive home at 4 in the afternoon.
So my question being, what upgrade would make the a/c run colder? Condenser? Compressor? Evaporator?
Keep in mind that I cant afford a perfect fit system, much less instal it myself, or have someone else do it.
Thanks,
Allen
06-30-2005, 01:43 AM
#2
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location:
Posts: 17,565
RE: Help--A/C is terrible
Nah, with these old air cons in East Texas, your best bet is 60-2. Drive 60 miles an hour and roll down both windows.
Seriously, my original air con works best at highway speeds over several miles. Don't expect instant cooling... It will rattle like heck at idliing speed, and won't give you much cool.. Face it... You ain't driving a new car.. Just be glad you have air con at highway speeds... Most folks with vintage Mustangs don't even have that...
Seriously, my original air con works best at highway speeds over several miles. Don't expect instant cooling... It will rattle like heck at idliing speed, and won't give you much cool.. Face it... You ain't driving a new car.. Just be glad you have air con at highway speeds... Most folks with vintage Mustangs don't even have that...
06-30-2005, 03:03 AM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,445
RE: Help--A/C is terrible
Couple of things.
AT best you will see a 20 degree temp change from inside to outside air. So after letting the car air out a bit, close the vents, wing windows etc. That will give you the best chance to cool the car. Your system will be recycling the cooler inside air.
If your condensor or radiator is full of bugs you need to get that all blown out, so it's nice and clear. Next look at the "sight glass" with the A/C on at idle you should not see bubles in the glass. If you do, it needs more refridgerant.
That's the two most over looked items.
Most the places want to add oil or die or some other such non-sense. All that does is take up space that could be filled with R134a. If you've changed over to R134a you can have them evacuate and recharge your system for a modest fee. Tell them specifally "NO ADDED GARBAGE!!! Just 134a please". Make sure the evacuate the system for at least 40 minutes with a good quality vacuum pump. You should see the gauge pull down to better than 28" Hg. It takes the 40 minutes or so to get all the water vapor that "boil" under a high vacuum to be evacuated. If you think your system has been filled with die and extra oil, have them change the receiver/dryer. It's not real expensive and usually catches most of the garbage.
Good luck!!!
AT best you will see a 20 degree temp change from inside to outside air. So after letting the car air out a bit, close the vents, wing windows etc. That will give you the best chance to cool the car. Your system will be recycling the cooler inside air.
If your condensor or radiator is full of bugs you need to get that all blown out, so it's nice and clear. Next look at the "sight glass" with the A/C on at idle you should not see bubles in the glass. If you do, it needs more refridgerant.
That's the two most over looked items.
Most the places want to add oil or die or some other such non-sense. All that does is take up space that could be filled with R134a. If you've changed over to R134a you can have them evacuate and recharge your system for a modest fee. Tell them specifally "NO ADDED GARBAGE!!! Just 134a please". Make sure the evacuate the system for at least 40 minutes with a good quality vacuum pump. You should see the gauge pull down to better than 28" Hg. It takes the 40 minutes or so to get all the water vapor that "boil" under a high vacuum to be evacuated. If you think your system has been filled with die and extra oil, have them change the receiver/dryer. It's not real expensive and usually catches most of the garbage.
Good luck!!!
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