boogerschnot

Could someone tell me what the deal is with this? If I do the UCA drop do I need the negative wedge kit? What if I cut the springs at the same time? I cant seem to find a true answer for this question. My plans are to cut a coil off and do the drop too. Ive got a good 5 inches of gap between the fender and the wheel.

Help me out.

blue289

If you drop the UCA more than 1 inch you need the negative wedge. I don't know about dropping the UCA 1 inch and then cutting the springs. I would think you would then need the negative wedge. I only did the UCA on mine.

eZ

I cant help you with the negative wedge kit. I didnt do it maybe I should have because the alignment shop had to use a bunch of spacers.

My advice would be to cut half a coil and try that for a while. Give the spring time to sttle. You can always cut another half but cant go back if you go to far. Also when you get the alignment (use) the specs from www.dazecars.com
Yours looks like a 67-68?

Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with or without UCA drop”.

These specifications are in order of importance.


1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in


My car has 620 springs, cut 1/2 coil, shelby drop.

Norm Peterson

The UCA drop (aka Shelby drop) isn't mainly done to lower the ride height. It drops the chassis side pivot attachments in order to improve the geometry. A smallish drop in ride height is at best a side effect. Probably somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" assuming that you keep the springs that are already in there and drop the UCA pivots 1".

The negative wedge kit allows you to lower the UCA chassis pivots by more than the usual 1". What it does is keep the larger change in UCA inclination from running the upper ball joint out of angular travel, binding it up, and eventually breaking it. As far as I know, this is not required for the 1" mod, though it probably wouldn't hurt to do something similar anyway.

Alignment-wise, I think I'd shoot for equal R and L cambers, and compensate for crown by setting caster slightly unequal instead (more positive on the passenger side).


Norm