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*sigh* another "which head" thread...

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Old 07-20-2009, 01:48 PM
  #1  
Starfury
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Default *sigh* another "which head" thread...

Ok, so in case nobody knows, I've got a blown head gasket on my 331. Right now I've got J code heads with 1.90/1.54 valves, port-matched exhaust, Comp Cams guideplates/dual springs/7/16" studs, and Crane 7/16" roller rockers. Obviously the motor wants something better, and while I could probably tear everything apart and put it all back together the way it is, I don't really want to.

Budget, unfortunately, is still an issue. Time is also an issue, as this is my only "running" car atm (my fox body project is still in progress). In the meantime, I'm getting around on my '79 Vespa scooter.

What I need is a conversion to something better for (preferably) under $1300 all said and done, including rockers. $800-1000 would be even better. Chamber cc needs to be 58-64cc to keep CR between 9.2:1 and 9.7:1 for pump gas. Exhaust ports have to be stock location. If the springs aren't up to par, I can always swap my current springs in. I absolutely refuse to buy cheap chinese heads.

After some frantic researching yesterday, here are my current options:

1) Brand new Trick Flow street/strip heads from Summit, $1300. They're only $50 more than the street legal heads, but they come with 7/16" studs. That means I don't need to buy rockers. They also ship for free. After some research, I believe the valves will easily clear my notched flat top pistons with my .512" lift cam.

2) Brand new Windsor Jr/Sr heads from Sumit, $900. Not sure which would be better for the engine (180cc vs 200cc). Both have 3/8" studs, though, which requires buying new rockers. Upside: cast iron heads I don't have to worry about warping.

3) Set of used but newly freshened up Roush 200's (Windsor Sr's) that come with Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, $800 + shipping ($140). Owner claims "minor port work" done. These would be bolt-on and go.

4) Set of used Roush 200's, disassembled, $550 + shipping. I'd probably have to get new seals and get the valves lapped as they've been sitting for a while. #3 is probably the better deal.

5) Used Performer RPM's, $1000 shipped, includes Comp Cams roller rockers. The heads are machined for loc-wire gaskets. Less than 10k miles on them, so they're probably fine. Sounds like a good deal to me, assuming no burned valves.

6) Unused Windsor Jr's, $650 shipped. Edit: These were sold, so no longer an option.

7) These Trick Flow Street/Strip heads on fleabay. Owner says they've got 500 miles on them and are "in perfect condition." Awaiting pictures of the actual heads. If I can get them for under $1k, I think it'd be a good deal.


So...thoughts?

Last edited by Starfury; 07-20-2009 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:19 PM
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kalli
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as you know i learned from all of you. i have no input otehr than I like my performers.
i checked on option 7, but it says nowhere they're used ?!
if option 7 i'd be interested to hear why they're swapping them after 500 miles. anyway his rating is good if its the right article.
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:22 PM
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It's buried in the fine print, and I sent him a message asking for mileage. Hope the current bidder knows they're not new...
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:45 PM
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see it now. best of luck with those :-) they'd be a great match for your 331 if there's no valve clearance issues etc. i'm usually the most lucky synching my tuime with internet and put in my offer so late that noone can bid over me unless they put more in before that anyway.
requires good timing. lost few auctions as i was a few seconds late due to bad internet connection or too many "confirm this bid" buttons :-) got my engine that way, quite sure the fella bidding against me was pissed
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:28 AM
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what i forgot to mention:
don't get the point with cast iron no warping issues. I made crap out of my old ones ;-)
I absolutely love the aluminum heads as the car steers way easier now due to the reduced weight. it's a hell of a difference which i never thought I'd feel.
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:33 AM
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If your worried about the pistons, TW are going to be your best be because they are canted. The .512 lift won't be an indication on whether the valve swill hit of not. You need to know the opening timing of the intake valve to have an idea. Don't worry about the warping. I beat the **** out of mine and blew numerous HG's and it was only out .002 when they were surfaced. Any failure, and AL heads are MUCH easier to fix.

Skip number 5. if it had loc wire, he was having fun. Chance's are good the spring pressures are low. You didn't mention. But be careful which ever way you go that the pressures aren't too much if you have a flat tappet.
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:47 PM
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Thanks for replying. I was hoping you'd see this at some point

I run a flat tapped Comp Cams Magnum 280H, which has .512" lift and 230* duration @ 0.050" (280* advertised), LSA of 110*, and a 6* advance from the factory (iirc). If it was a roller cam, I'd be more worried due to the higher ramp rate. TFS's website claims up to .540" lift without clearance issues. Still, I'll call Trick Flow to see what they think about it.

I'm absolutely not worried about valve interference with any other inline-valve head. My KB hypereutectics have pretty decent valve reliefs in them and I'm not running a cam with a steep ramp rate or super high lift, so I shouldn't have any problems.

If I find a set with either weak or super strong springs, I'll swap my dual springs in. They're designed for an XE268H (what I used to run), but they've been working fine on my cam for quite a while.

I'm leaning towards a new pair of Twisted Wedge Street/Strip heads for the 7/16" studs, but I'm still waiting on replies from a couple of the classifieds posters.
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Old 07-21-2009, 02:36 PM
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Not a bad plan, but don't expect your spring to work though. After market heads 99% of the time have valves with .100 longer valves for more lift without coil bind. So that installed height just being taller will weaken the pressure your springs would have. You could shim, but .100 is a bit much.

Ok, your flat tappet will open much slower at the beginning, relatively speaking anyways. Just make sure to check with a solid lifter.

Sorry can't be here as much as I'd like to help. When things go well, and companies don't have to be called, I don't sit much in front of the computer. So that's good. lol
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:16 PM
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Ah hell. You're making my life difficult:P I don't really trust roller cam springs designed for .600" lift on my flat tappet cam with .512" lift.
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Old 07-21-2009, 04:30 PM
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Sorry, just want you to know. That way you have an idea, even if small about what's coming. Sucks getting stuck.
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