tri-y header clearance issues
#1
tri-y header clearance issues
I am currently installing my tri-y headers on my 66 mustang with a 289. Got the driver's side bolted in just fine. I am having shock tower clearance issues on the passenger side. Any suggestions? Is unbolting the right side motor mount and raising or lowering the engine the best way and easiest way to get the clearance I need? Thanks for the help guys.
#2
I had the same issue on the passenger side.
I removed the header and gently reshaped the #1 cylinder tube with a BFH. Needed to be flattened 3/8 of an inch. I tried to move the engine as much as I could and then test fitted after each "adjustment". Make sure you pound in the right location and direction.
BEFORE picture:
Good luck and Be Safe
Ron
I removed the header and gently reshaped the #1 cylinder tube with a BFH. Needed to be flattened 3/8 of an inch. I tried to move the engine as much as I could and then test fitted after each "adjustment". Make sure you pound in the right location and direction.
BEFORE picture:
Good luck and Be Safe
Ron
#4
You got that correct.
Every tool box needs a BFH in it!
Just go slow and just try to reshape it to fit around the metal. I ended up with 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance after massaging it. Also remember the engine will torque to this side but it does not hit on ours.
I got mine from Laurel Mountain.
Every tool box needs a BFH in it!
Just go slow and just try to reshape it to fit around the metal. I ended up with 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance after massaging it. Also remember the engine will torque to this side but it does not hit on ours.
I got mine from Laurel Mountain.
#6
The 65-66 cars do seem to often have header clearance issues.
I would say that a 1 peice export brace and a monte carlo bar would be good additions overall, but will also prevent the shock towers from leaning in and causing header interference later on.
I agree about the hammer method. Just don't get too crazy with it. You can also do what I have done before is get a solid piece of metal that is close to the shape that you want to make and hit that instead of directly hitting the header tube.
I would say that a 1 peice export brace and a monte carlo bar would be good additions overall, but will also prevent the shock towers from leaning in and causing header interference later on.
I agree about the hammer method. Just don't get too crazy with it. You can also do what I have done before is get a solid piece of metal that is close to the shape that you want to make and hit that instead of directly hitting the header tube.
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