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Power Steering problem, 1966 289

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Old 07-24-2009, 02:25 PM
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22km22
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Default Power Steering problem, 1966 289

I rebuilt the control valve on the power steering system as the local garage told me there was too much play in the ball joint (where the pitman arm attaches to). Drained the system, stripped down the control valve, cleaned and fitted new seals and lubricated, fitted a new ball stud and socket and lubricated. Then fitted all back together. (There was nothing wrong with anything, the garage didn't understand there is meant to be a little play in the ball stud). Fitted all the PS pipes, filled with Type F fluid (Castrol TQF in UK). PS worked fine for a few days, then started to get jerky at 2000rpm. Re-adjusted the nut for the control valve centering spring, drove OK. Shortly after steering got tight at low RPM and when stationary, but OK at speed. Now I have to use 2 hands and full force to turn the wheel at low speed/RPM or when stationary. Am positive the control valve was rebuild correctly. All ball joints are fine, car is dry use only so no rust. ANY ideas greatfully appreciated!
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:10 PM
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2+2GT
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While the U.K. has no corner on the "not understanding Bendix steering gear" market, I once got a call from a gent in Ireland who's car was failing technical due to this exact situation. Since he was calling from the spot, I asked him to to tell the technician to start the engine. He came back a moment later and said "nevermind". Ya see, the Bendix system requires up to 800 psi to operate, and with zero pressure, there is nothing to keep the valve centered. Pity about the fluid change, it's really not necessary when reconditioning the valve. I just did one of these today, basically if you can get it off (properly) you can recondition it.
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for info. Hand't thought about the fluid. Oils in the UK are different than those in the US - US oils difficult to get here. I followed the Lubricant Specifications in the original 1966 Mustang Handbook - both 'Automatic Transmission' & 'Steering - Power (Pump Resevoir)' list: Rotunda Automatic Transmission Fluid, (Ford Part No.) C1AZ-19582-A, R-106-A, (Ford Specification M2C33D). M2C33D is Type F fluid (high friction oil for Ford C4 box) - assume this is wrong for PS systems??? Castrol TQF is the nearest UK equivalent - this is what I used.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:20 AM
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eeehh mine always leaks
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:04 AM
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2+2GT
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Originally Posted by BeastMachine67
eeehh mine always leaks
If it was assembled properly, with proper hoses, clamps, and brackets, it would not leak.
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:04 AM
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i wouldn't know, I haven't touched it since i bought the car but, my old 69' that I sold 2yrs ago had the same problem
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:23 AM
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To the OP,
Did you flush out the old fluid left in the system? It could be the two fluids don't mix and that would explain why it took some time for them to react. I'm thinking coagulation.
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:20 PM
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Flushed as much of the old fluid out as possible, must have put in 1.25-1.5 liters of Castrol TQF. As the car was shipped from the US 4 years ago I assumed Type F had been used (cannot think what else could have been put in there).Today stripped off the control valve to inspect - spool valve free, only resistance is against the seals; reaction limiting valve is free to move; all oil-ways are clear and free. Put it all back together, adjusted the end nut (100inlb, less 1/4 turn). Same. No better no worse. Am thinking what Chocostang said about thin oil, maybe the pump is not producing enough pressure?? (Castrol TQF is THICKER than Type F fluid, at cold AND at hot). No noise from the pump - it's quiet.
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Old 07-25-2009, 02:15 PM
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Another note. When I drained the oil today it was 'slightly' browner than the normal RED colour???
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:00 PM
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Did you follow up on my PM?
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