67mustang302

Wilwood has a lot of replacement calipers. You'll spend more than you would on typical parts store junk. NAPA generally carries good quality stuff as well.

Even if you're not going to race, brakes are one of the last places to skimp.

MtnMustang

In my opinion the 8.8 is the next best thing to a 9 inch and in some ways a better choice because of the smaller housing. It is a stronger better option than the nodular 8 inch.

The 9s have a reputation of strength and lightweight with almost endless options in gearing, bearing sizes, lockers etc.

The 8.8 is close in the range of options. You can go with small 28 splines, 31 splines, lockers, limited slip, wide range of axle ratios etc. The Explorers and F series did come with 31 spline shafts and big bearings. Explorers also came with disc brakes too. I am a big fan of the 8.8s. They are also less prone to leaks.

I have a Currie heavy duty 9 inch housing with high pinion center that uses reverse cut 8.8 gears like in the front of a Navigator. Mine has wilwood discs but they are basically the same as Explorer rear discs. In my Jeep.

The 8.8 has also become a popular axle for Jeep axle swaps too. Strong, wide range of options, similar width and bolt patterns and a very popular axle to find in the junk yards with all the Mustangs, Explorers, Rangers, Aerostars, Crown Vics and F150s. So many different widths and bolt patterns. Keep in mind the Explorers, some Mustangs, and F150s had the larger shafts. Rangers and Crown Vics did not except in some cases the a Marauder or Sport Trac.

Verify the WMS-WMS of the axle your are pulling out along with the wheel pattern. WMS = wheel mount surface. While you can have a 1/2 to 1 inch difference you will want a donor axle to be the same width. you will likely need to grind off the spring perches, shock mounts and sway bar brackets. Many places sell kits for axle swaps by application for 8.8 axles, otherwise its not hard to find the brackets. Then measure against your current axle for bracket placement and weld them in. Since you are doing a ford to ford swap the driveshaft should have correct bolt pattern but you may need to have the drive shaft length modified, which is usually 150 bucks or so.

I have done several axle swaps, mostly in Jeeps but its all about the same.

Good luck.

Not ******* the 8 inch, but if you are going to the effort to build an axle I suggest the 8.8. Ford overall has built some of the best axles out there.

67mustang302

The only downside I see to the 8.8 is the c-clip axle setup.

MtnMustang

Pretty minor worry, the 8.8s are pretty strong and if you have disc brakes you wont loose a shaft if you break one. I have changed shafts on 8.8s in the middle of a Golden Spike in Moab, it was a pretty quick repair.

67mustang302

I'm more concerned with pad knockback. When you start doing serious cornering on pavement, c-clip axles generate a lot of pad knockback and give you a low brake pedal. That's why most of the race stuff and some street stuff runs full floating rears.

SteveWolf1965

Very good point. However, this car will not be on the track. I know street cars can experience some knock back also, but there are steps to take to reduce it. This car will have all new wheel bearings and I'm not going for big rotors, which should help. I will also consider floating calipers. Thanks for bringing up this point.

SteveWolf1965

Thanks for the tips. I have a "95 Explorer axle, fits the 67 mustang like a glove. 31 spline, same width, disc brakes, same 5on4.5 lugs, 3.73 gear. I haven't checked the driveshaft yet. I picked up the mounts from Mustang Plus, $30 each side. BTW, for anyone else doing this, the axle code is D4. And it has ltd slip dif.

SteveWolf1965

Absolutely correct if it's going on the track or you're extremely aggressive on the street.

67mustang302

Could always use c-clip eliminators. For a street car without crazy suspension floating calipers work great. They actually work on street/track cars too with a bit of extra maintenance, but since the vast majority of braking is in the front floaters aren't a big deal.

Floating calipers and a 2lb residual pressure valve and they should be fine.

MtnMustang

Yea most of my 8.8 experience is with off road vehicles, but I have seen several set up for track use with C Clip eliminators and big outer bearing kits.