Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Edelbrock or Weiand

Old 07-28-2009, 01:15 PM
  #21  
Starfury
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Yes. :P
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:19 PM
  #22  
1965screamer
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Originally Posted by THUMPIN455
I have a 467 stroker that winds up to 7800

do I win?
What motor did you stroke?
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Starfury
Having looked at a stock 4V intake compared to a Performer 289, there is a significant difference. Better runner design, taller plenum, and the weight savings alone makes it worth the swap. The Weiand is supposed to provide slightly better torque and peak hp numbers than the Edelbrock, and I'm happy with my Weiand Stealth, so I'd recommend the Weiand 8124.

I'd recommend the Edelbrock Performance 1250 gaskets. They're softer than the standard gaskets and have a seal printed around each port to help prevent leaks. I've never had a problem with these gaskets.
Did you mean Fel-Pro 1250 instead of the Edelbrock? I can find them but not Edelbrock brand.
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:54 PM
  #24  
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Erm, yeah, sorry. Been a long couple days.
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Old 07-28-2009, 02:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Starfury
Erm, yeah, sorry. Been a long couple days.
Yeah I know that feeling right now. Weekend needs to be here soon but I really don't get one this weekend. But thank god I'll be switching to nights next week.

Just something I wanted to confirm before I send my order to Summit because I am getting confused from looking at past threads. For the RTV I know keep away from silicone based because gas will destroy it causing leaks and all other sorts of fun. So used this to put a thin coat on the gaskets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9300/ and then use some other RTV on the ends of the block? Or with the Fel-Pro's do I even need the adhesive?

Last edited by remicks; 07-28-2009 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 03:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by remicks
Luckily I don't have a stock 4v intake, just a 2v so I don't have to worry about if the Performer vs the stock.
LOL! I'm surprised the discussion got as far as it did before someone picked up on the 2v vs. 4v intake.
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Old 07-28-2009, 03:46 PM
  #27  
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I had a stock 4v intake but when I got my motor rebuilt my dad picked up an edelbrock performer and a new carb based on some recommendations he heard. But now a couple years later I think the money could have been spent on a different area, or I would have gotten a weiand because I like things that are less common, and it seems almost everyone has edelbrock Going from 2v to 4v though you can't loose with either, but it seems you've made a good choice

I'm just glad I did save 40 lbs with my intake though, only thing keeping the purchase from being almost worthless. I like the look of the bare aluminum though so I'm happy
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by remicks
Just something I wanted to confirm before I send my order to Summit because I am getting confused from looking at past threads. For the RTV I know keep away from silicone based because gas will destroy it causing leaks and all other sorts of fun. So used this to put a thin coat on the gaskets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9300/ and then use some other RTV on the ends of the block? Or with the Fel-Pro's do I even need the adhesive?
Don't use any sealer around the intake ports on any gasket. The Fel Pro 1250's have seals printed around each port for better sealing, and they're a bit softer and I've had better luck with them than the stock replacement gaskets.

If your head or intake coolant port mating surfaces are pitted, use a thin smear of Ultra Black RTV (or The Right Stuff, which I prefer) around the port on the gasket. Assemble immediately as the thin layer will dry fast, especially if you use The Right Stuff.

For the ends, ditch the cork gaskets and use a bead of the same RTV, with a bit more in the corners where the head and block meet. To keep things from sliding around during install, get yourself 4 studs to put in the intake bolt holes on each corner. Bolts with the heads chopped off will work just as well. Install the intake, remove the studs, and torque the bolts using the proper snail torque pattern.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:31 PM
  #29  
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Just to clarify, avoid putting sealer on the gasket past the printed seals or don't need any at all?

And I am still surprised that the weight difference is that much between the Aluminum and Iron. I knew it was significant but 40lbs still surprises me. And I agree with the bare aluminum look too, I like that machined look far more than polished.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:35 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by remicks
Just to clarify, avoid putting sealer on the gasket past the printed seals or don't need any at all?

And I am still surprised that the weight difference is that much between the Aluminum and Iron. I knew it was significant but 40lbs still surprises me. And I agree with the bare aluminum look too, I like that machined look far more than polished.
no joke, when u lift the cast iron piece off it will take both hands, when u drop the weiand on u could use one finger, its a beautiful thing, aluminum
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