Edelbrock or Weiand
#42
Honestly I have never heard of something like that, a reducing bushing, but I looked around on the internets and found other people mentioning it for the 8124. Is that for the temperature sender?
Also for the thermostat I was planning to use RTV, is that acceptable or do I need to use a specific gasket?
Also for the thermostat I was planning to use RTV, is that acceptable or do I need to use a specific gasket?
#43
No, the bushing is for the heater elbow. The standard elbow is 1/4" pipe, but the port in the intake is 1/2" pipe. No big deal.
There is a gasket for the thermostat housing. Avoid using silicone, but if you have problems with leaks or if the surfaces are really pitted, use only a thin smear.
There is a gasket for the thermostat housing. Avoid using silicone, but if you have problems with leaks or if the surfaces are really pitted, use only a thin smear.
#44
We're putting a phenolic (insulating) 1" carb spacer in this weekend. We think the carb is sinking so much heat that when we shut down, the fuel boils in the bowl and runs out the shaft. At least that's what the Edelbrock rep says. We'll see what the insulator does. Hope you don't run into this.
#45
Crunchy -- What is your fuel pressure? The other thing the Edelbrock rep pointed to was fuel pressure over 5psi (I think it was 5). He said it may be too much to allow the needle to stay seated. Basically, either way the bowl overflows, runs down the side of the primary barrel, onto the shaft, and out of the body just behind the choke near the linkage between primary and secondary shafts. They blame alot of it on the ethanol in the fuel. As far as low end torque, info I've seen says a 4-hole spacer will improve low end, while an open square bore will do more for high end. I'm going with the 4-hole. I don't particularly care to do 100+mph on 40 year old suspension and drum brakes, but I do like to launch in a hurry. I'll let you know if we feel any difference.
Remicks -For what it's worth, we also ran into a difference in air cleaner stud size, throttle connection issues (ball stud, and different length cable) and tranny kickdown cable/connection bracket issues. Nothing major. We put a new fuel filter in at the same time - one of the clear glass ones. What a POS. This one was a "universal fit" that had nylon (plastic) fittings to screw into each end for what ever hose dia you have. Should have bought the Mr.Gasket brand of the same thing since it has metal ends made for a specific hose dia. The water temp sender fit just right. In case it's got an electric choke, we wired hot to the starter solenoid, and grounded to one of the carb studs. The whole swap made enough of a difference in performance that my wife won't ride in the car with my son driving anymore. Good thing I upgraded the seatbelts first.
Remicks -For what it's worth, we also ran into a difference in air cleaner stud size, throttle connection issues (ball stud, and different length cable) and tranny kickdown cable/connection bracket issues. Nothing major. We put a new fuel filter in at the same time - one of the clear glass ones. What a POS. This one was a "universal fit" that had nylon (plastic) fittings to screw into each end for what ever hose dia you have. Should have bought the Mr.Gasket brand of the same thing since it has metal ends made for a specific hose dia. The water temp sender fit just right. In case it's got an electric choke, we wired hot to the starter solenoid, and grounded to one of the carb studs. The whole swap made enough of a difference in performance that my wife won't ride in the car with my son driving anymore. Good thing I upgraded the seatbelts first.
#48
Have it mostly done, thanks for the help so far. I have run into another question though. I can't get the heater elbow and connection for the distributor off of the old intake. Any way to get them off. I have used penetrating oil and brute force and that good stuff, I don't have a vice to put anything in though. Or do I just need more brute force?
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