Generator + modern electronics connections?
#1
Generator + modern electronics connections?
When I got my 64 generator powered Mustang, I found a couple burned out, newer radios and a dead oil temp gauge in the trunk. Last week I got a cheap timing light, hooked the power directly to the battery and inductor to the #1 plug (correctly), I used it for about 10 minutes and it worked great, then I started to do the hi-rev timing test and the darned thing burned out. Went and got a better one, but haven't used it yet. Also got a Tachometer and was looking at the wiring diagrams and noticed that the generator cars (64-65) have a couple "constant voltage regulators" while the alternator is listed as just "voltage regulator". (and a pink "resistor wire" under the dash???)
One "constant voltage regulator" is installed with the gauges. That's when it hit me that I don't know anything about the Generator as opposed to the Alternator power supplies. I am guessing here....Is it possible that there are voltage spikes or higher charging voltage/amps at higher generator speeds? Would it burn out Solid State devices that are connected directly to the battery power? Devices like the after-market gauges, timing light and radios that have microchips and electronics that didn't exist back then?
Do I need to hook up a "constant voltage regulator" in-line or anything else (fuses, filters, etc.) with after-market electronics? Should they be connected directly to the battery power and ground or should it have a separate fuse block and constant voltage regulator? It would be a pain..... if pricey electronics kept burning out on this system. I assume it is DC voltage, but may not be conditioned, constant voltage like newer cars have.
If it's not covered in the above question, what is the "pink resistor wire" that these cars use?
Thanks for all the help!
One "constant voltage regulator" is installed with the gauges. That's when it hit me that I don't know anything about the Generator as opposed to the Alternator power supplies. I am guessing here....Is it possible that there are voltage spikes or higher charging voltage/amps at higher generator speeds? Would it burn out Solid State devices that are connected directly to the battery power? Devices like the after-market gauges, timing light and radios that have microchips and electronics that didn't exist back then?
Do I need to hook up a "constant voltage regulator" in-line or anything else (fuses, filters, etc.) with after-market electronics? Should they be connected directly to the battery power and ground or should it have a separate fuse block and constant voltage regulator? It would be a pain..... if pricey electronics kept burning out on this system. I assume it is DC voltage, but may not be conditioned, constant voltage like newer cars have.
If it's not covered in the above question, what is the "pink resistor wire" that these cars use?
Thanks for all the help!
#2
Providing that you are not loading up the system with a lot of high amperage draw equipment and over taxing the meager generator output, if the charging system is working right it should not be causing any problems.
If I were to make a guess, I would say that your voltage regulator is not cutting out and is causing voltage spikes when the generator RPM is high.
IMO, you should change your charging system voltage regulator for a new solid state unit (These are the most commonly sold ones now) and this should take care of your issue.
In the practical sense, the only problem that a generator suffers from is it's low output.
I am running a generator in my 55 Lincoln without issue.
If I were to make a guess, I would say that your voltage regulator is not cutting out and is causing voltage spikes when the generator RPM is high.
IMO, you should change your charging system voltage regulator for a new solid state unit (These are the most commonly sold ones now) and this should take care of your issue.
In the practical sense, the only problem that a generator suffers from is it's low output.
I am running a generator in my 55 Lincoln without issue.
#3
Is there a way to tell if it has a generator or alternator installed? (Supposed to be a generator) The one that is in it has a home-made wiring harness (smaller wires and the guy liked to cut a twist wires together!!!!) and looks brand new and modern. It just doesn't look like it was made back then (not old design and hardware like the starter motor...) I wouldn't put it past the previous owner(s) to have installed an alternator in it instead of the generator.
All the electrical is mickey-moused to put pep-boys radios and gadgets in it. Trying to get it back to original, so he has put in a lot of wrong parts.
#6
Is there a way to test it with a voltage meter or something to tell which it is? It's not original, that's for sure and I am betting the idiots replaced it with an alternator. That would explain the homemade wiring.
I assume since it was wired for a generator, I need to have the generator and voltage regulator for it, it appears to have been replaced as well.
Thanks Again!
#7
yea, you are describing an alternator, but for sure an alternator is an upgrade, certainly cheaper and easier to maintain due to parts prices and availability.
If you are looking for a return to stock condition, eBay can be your friend when looking for an afordable replacement generator and brackets.
A swith to an alternator is probably one of the most common upgrades done to 64.5s.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/64-1-...=p4506.c0.m245
Here is a link to a 6 cyl harness on ebay, I think it is damn pricy, but I might be out of touch....
If you are looking for a return to stock condition, eBay can be your friend when looking for an afordable replacement generator and brackets.
A swith to an alternator is probably one of the most common upgrades done to 64.5s.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/64-1-...=p4506.c0.m245
Here is a link to a 6 cyl harness on ebay, I think it is damn pricy, but I might be out of touch....
Last edited by JMD; 07-30-2009 at 05:19 PM.
#8
re: generator
If you have a 260 V-8 (64.5) and you are seeking to keep it original then, obviously, you want to stay with the generator (Powermaster makes a generator replacement). JMD is correct - it does not kick out a lot of current (amperes).
If you are thinking about switching to a more modern alternator set up then explore your choice of alternators (1-wire vs. 3-wire) and your current (ampere) needs (electric radiator fan? need ~100 amps, monster stereo? power accessories? plan for a more powerful alternator).
The bigger obstacle I encountered and peculiar to 260 V-8s => bracket mount. You will probably not be able to find an after-market bracket to accommodate an alternator. I had to alter my existing bracket, attach a tensioner and create a holder for the top of the oil tube. I then attached a Powermaster 1-wire alternator.
If you are curious about the specifics, let me know.
If you are thinking about switching to a more modern alternator set up then explore your choice of alternators (1-wire vs. 3-wire) and your current (ampere) needs (electric radiator fan? need ~100 amps, monster stereo? power accessories? plan for a more powerful alternator).
The bigger obstacle I encountered and peculiar to 260 V-8s => bracket mount. You will probably not be able to find an after-market bracket to accommodate an alternator. I had to alter my existing bracket, attach a tensioner and create a holder for the top of the oil tube. I then attached a Powermaster 1-wire alternator.
If you are curious about the specifics, let me know.
#9
I have a 64.5 170Ci, I don't think it is the original mount either, but it seems to work ok...maybe too well? BTW, it has 5 wires going all different paces... I'll have to figure out why.
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